Kingbigs22

Hopefully someone can help. Searching has done me no help. I bought a set of adapter baffles to fit the 6.5" door speakers. I have some kickers I'm putting in. I got the door panel off and saw the two plugs going into the existing baffle. Does anyone know how to wire these new speakers without crossovers? I just want to wire the new speakers directly to the existing setup. Please help.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

First off, my welcome to Club Lexus


If I'm reading correctly... Just remove the plug going into the old pod, cut the wires (or splice into them) and run wires straight from there to the new speaker. However, this will eliminate the factory tweeter.

Kingbigs22

Thanks for the response. There are wires going to the back of the speaker itself. Then the 2 plugs going into the baffle. What gets done with the 2 plugs going into the baffle?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

The 2 wires (orange plug) going into the baffle is the signal coming from the amp/deck. The ones going into the speaker themselves are just transferring the same signal from the baffle to the speaker. Its just a way for the oem to make the baffle/enclosure its own unit making it easy to remove from the vehicle. Doing what I mentioned above will give you a complete full-pass signal to your speaker.

Kingbigs22

Cool. Thanks! What about the pink/purple plug?

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Thats the wire going to the tweeter in the A-Pillar. Thats why I say you'll loose that tweeter by sourcing the signal from the orange plug. Its been a while since I've had mine opened, I cant remember where the crossover point is. I do remember there are wires coming from the speaker inside going to the pink/purple plug to send the signal to the tweeter. You can do the same and run wires from your speaker to the pink/purple wires to send the signal to the tweeters, just use a capacitor to block the bass. I removed the plug from the baffle itself and utilized it to feed signal to the speakers as to not cut any wires.

Kingbigs22

Cool deal. Thanks a lot! i have it all of now. Just trying to figure out positive and negative at this point

AmanO

Did you figure out pos vs neg? I am at this step, right now.

mtaalib3

Technically the polarity (positive vs negative) does not matter. The signal from your factory amp, or any amp for that matter, is an AC signal. AC stands for alternating current. The only time where polarity really matters is in the DC domain. DC stands for direct current. Examples of devices that use DC current would be you alternator, battery, electric motors, etc. When talking about music you're in the AC domain so technically there is no real positive or negative....just polarities. To an amp, a speaker is just one big resistor with impedances that fluctuate with the frequencies that they're reproducing. Speaker manufacturers only mark positive or negative on the speaker terminals to help people keep their speakers in phase with one another. So if you wire the positive to the negative all that would happen is that speaker will be 180 degrees out of phase with the rest of the system. This may or may not be a good thing. Wiring speakers out of phase with one another may affect the way that is sounds in a positive or negative manner. In the end its all about how it sounds. However, if you're really concerned about polarities, a wiring diagram will be able to show you which wire is positive and which is negative.

AmanO

Ok. I was not getting a signal from speakers yesterday. It must have been that the connection was not complete. Then, when I switched polarity, it WAS complete.

exxonham

Ya I just did my speakers last weekend, Pretty straight forward. Like Jokster said, cut splice the wires, tape up and your good to go, make sure its secure and enough wire. Connection is important, They have to be tight and I heat shrinked mine, so they would some apart

sibanez

Once you've confirmed signal, I would solder the wires together and then use heat shrinked. I've seen so may car audio installs with wires that are loose have excess static.