GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Steering wheel shaking at 55mph and up

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Old 06-12-15 | 10:01 AM
  #16  
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When was the last time you got an alignment?

Also, install these
https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...?scri=2&filter
Old 06-13-15 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BIG TY
Steerng rack?
Yessssss, you righ bro. Steering Rack and not Steerng Rack. LOL I think you have the same issue whit your cell phone when you writing a word. LOL You can found that Steering Rack Bushing on eBay around $40.00 to $60.00 and I know is a thread about that how you can installing this bushing be you self.

Last edited by Mcon; 06-13-15 at 10:51 AM.
Old 06-13-15 | 01:15 PM
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Change all your bushing to figs, most important are the steering rack and caster arm ones.
Old 06-15-15 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mcon
Yessssss, you righ bro. Steering Rack and not Steerng Rack. LOL I think you have the same issue whit your cell phone when you writing a word. LOL You can found that Steering Rack Bushing on eBay around $40.00 to $60.00 and I know is a thread about that how you can installing this bushing be you self.
LOL Thanks bro
Old 06-15-15 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by haroon18
Change all your bushing to figs, most important are the steering rack and caster arm ones.
I idid everything figs Thanks again
Old 06-15-15 | 12:31 PM
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Default 55 and up shimmy

Had similar problem with my car. I first changed all struts with KYB gas struts. During this exchange, found that the caliper I had replaced two years ago, was not fully releasing the disk (passenger side front), took it back to parts store, as it was a lifetime warranty, got it replaced. If you check the wheels right after driving, there should not be any heat coming from any wheel. Mine was the passenger side front. As my struts were due for replacement, it was a win-win. Handing increased dramatically. Also had heavier sway bars installed front and back. Alignment was done after all work was completed. All lower and upper ball joints as well as tie-rod ends we done a year previously. I always have the wheels balanced when I switch back to summer/winter driving.

Last edited by Solo4ewa; 06-15-15 at 12:36 PM.
Old 06-15-15 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Solo4ewa
Had similar problem with my car. I first changed all struts with KYB gas struts. During this exchange, found that the caliper I had replaced two years ago, was not fully releasing the disk (passenger side front), took it back to parts store, as it was a lifetime warranty, got it replaced. If you check the wheels right after driving, there should not be any heat coming from any wheel. Mine was the passenger side front. As my struts were due for replacement, it was a win-win. Handing increased dramatically. Also had heavier sway bars installed front and back. Alignment was done after all work was completed. All lower and upper ball joints as well as tie-rod ends we done a year previously. I always have the wheels balanced when I switch back to summer/winter driving.
+1 for this I forgot to mention the sticky calipers mine was doing that also. You can always tell easily after taking a long highway ride if any of the wheels have more heat coming off of it then the rest, you can be pretty sure that caliper is sticky. This causes all sorts of shakes and it slows the car down and kills the handling. It really does ruin the car when you have a sticky caliper. Always put your hand over the rotor on each wheel after a long highway ride periodically to check
Old 06-15-15 | 02:32 PM
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Do these fixes apply only when you get the shakes SPEEDING UP? I get the shakes when slowing down with and without applying brakes.
Old 06-15-15 | 02:35 PM
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I am having shaking problems also when i'm on the freeway hitting a steady 70 and above. I got my tires balanced and alignment done and the problem still persists.

My questions is.. I am on BMW 7 series rims and someone mentioned that I should get hub centric rings. How do I know what size rings to buy?
Old 06-15-15 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by LexusK
Do these fixes apply only when you get the shakes SPEEDING UP? I get the shakes when slowing down with and without applying brakes.
Yup. Especially if you car doesn't coast well when you let go of the gas. But the REAL EASY test is take a long highway ride or just drive around for a few hours in the city and put your hand over your rotor/brake pad area and if you feel one of them is hotter then the rest you can be pretty sure that caliper is sticking. It made a world of a difference when I changed mine.
Old 06-16-15 | 06:39 AM
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[QUOTE=LexusK;9077421]Do these fixes apply only when you get the shakes SPEEDING UP? I get the shakes when slowing down with and without applying brakes.[/QUOTEi

I changed both calipers and still the same issue. I will change the steering rack bushings and cross my fingers
Old 06-16-15 | 07:50 AM
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Those bushings don't do anything for the shakes. This car is very sensitive to non OEM. If you don't have everything brand new as far as suspension parts are concerned and you put anything but OEM wheels and OEM tire size you will experience the shakes because of the stupid steering column bar thing(forgot the name) that only the GS has that transmits all the vibrations into the car. It's supposed to keep the steering column working if the car ever got crashed but it makes the car super duper finicky to any suspension changes and transmits massive vibrations compared to the LS which doesn't have this. are you on stock rims? I would start with rims/tires/ball joints/caster and upper arms before worrying about rack bushings. Loose tie rods will seem like the rack is bad but it's really those tie rods

[QUOTE=BIG TY;9078138]
Originally Posted by LexusK
Do these fixes apply only when you get the shakes SPEEDING UP? I get the shakes when slowing down with and without applying brakes.[/QUOTEi

I changed both calipers and still the same issue. I will change the steering rack bushings and cross my fingers
Old 06-16-15 | 11:53 AM
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[QUOTE=DMPesso;9078199]Those bushings don't do anything for the shakes. This car is very sensitive to non OEM. If you don't have everything brand new as far as suspension parts are concerned and you put anything but OEM wheels and OEM tire size you will experience the shakes because of the stupid steering column bar thing(forgot the name) that only the GS has that transmits all the vibrations into the car. It's supposed to keep the steering column working if the car ever got crashed but it makes the car super duper finicky to any suspension changes and transmits massive vibrations compared to the LS which doesn't have this. are you on stock rims? I would start with rims/tires/ball joints/caster and upper arms before worrying about rack bushings. Loose tie rods will seem like the rack is bad but it's really those tie rods

I changed the tie rods already too
Old 06-17-15 | 07:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Solo4ewa
Had similar problem with my car. I first changed all struts with KYB gas struts. During this exchange, found that the caliper I had replaced two years ago, was not fully releasing the disk (passenger side front), took it back to parts store, as it was a lifetime warranty, got it replaced. If you check the wheels right after driving, there should not be any heat coming from any wheel. Mine was the passenger side front. As my struts were due for replacement, it was a win-win. Handing increased dramatically. Also had heavier sway bars installed front and back. Alignment was done after all work was completed. All lower and upper ball joints as well as tie-rod ends we done a year previously. I always have the wheels balanced when I switch back to summer/winter driving.

WOW!!! You actually drive your GS in the snow

Your brave.

My baby is garaged all through winter.
Old 06-18-15 | 07:05 AM
  #30  
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ok problem solved... new steering rack bushings and lower controll arm.
love my daily again

Last edited by BIG TY; 06-18-15 at 07:10 AM.


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