robo

Solo4ewa,
Did you replace both or just one to get the misfire issue fixed? The one at the radiator is not a sensor but a switch that can turn on or off the fan. I am not sure how this switch can provide temperature to ECM.

Category5

Yea I'm sorry it is actually considered a switch and a sensor but if you'd like to check if yours is bad, and I'm referring to the Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor/Switch, remove it from the radiator, and what youll want to do is place the switch into coolant or however you want to get some up to and above 93*C (199*F) and check with an ohmmeter that there is NO continuity between the two terminals on the switch, (I guess you can Just get your car hot leaving it in the radiator and disconnect the plug from the switch but it'll be a bit difficult to know the exact temps of your coolant) but if there IS continuity at this higher temp, replace the switch. Then youll want to place it in coolant that's below 83*C (181*F) and check continuity between the terminals, if there is no continuity at this temp. Replace the switch.

Category5

If you want to check the other sensor/switch, (the one for the computer) you'd do the same thing but, youll want to this time check that NO continuity exists between this ones terminals when coolant temp is ABOVE 100*C (212*F). If there is continuity, replace it.

Then check it again with coolant temps BELOW 91*C (196*F) making sure continuity DOES exist. If not, replace.

BTW youd do this by having the sensor end of it simply dipped into the coolant obviously. Hope that helps.

robo

Category5,
Thanks for your input. I think my switch is working well since if I unplug the connector, the fan is running just like when the water is hot and the switch is opened (no continuity). My temp gauge is always at the middle position suggesting there is no overheat issue.
The problem have is the car loss power at a complete stop or when accelerating from low speed. When it gets to speed, it works well. It started produce popping sound recently on the right rear (look like from exhaust) when accelerating from a complete stop or very low speed when turning at red light. I just replaced MAF sensor but it did not fix.

robo

So far, I replaced MAF sensor, Camshaft position sensor, 2 knock sensors, water coolant temperature sensor. It still has the same symptom. It lacks of power from a complete stop and may cause misfire if I try to accelerate quickly. Sputtering sound may be heard at Exhaust when engine is hot. Any more input will be appreciated.

Trunkmonke

Are you still having the misfire? The power supply wires to the coils can also corrode and arc to the exhaust valve cover causing a misfire.

robo

Yes, still having misfire. P0300 and P0302 code. I looked at the wires and I don't see any chance it will touch the cover or frame ground. The plastic cracked a little at he connector but it cannot touch the cover. Even though I used electrical tape to cover it.

robo

Update: It looks like I had 2 causes of misfire. 1st cause is some sensor (may be camposition sensor) that caused random misfire and #1 most of the time, sometimes on #4 and #2. After replacing sensor, I still have random misfire on #2. I took the car to a car repair shop for diagnosing, they told me the spark plug on #2 was cracked and cost for changing spark plugs and wires was $550. I refused the service since I just changed these things for about 8 months. Paid $110 for diagnosing and took the car home to replace #2 spark plug, the car ran like new. and CEL automatically turned after after about 50 miles driving.