My JDM Power Folding Mirrors Install with wiring + motor repair
#1
My JDM Power Folding Mirrors Install with wiring + motor repair
I didn't find much info on the power folding install so here is how I did it. This install retain all the USDM mirror functions. Memory, heated, and auto dimming works like it should.
All I'm doing is taking the JDM power folding bracket and install it in the USDM housing with the USDM mirror and mirror motor.
Before taking the JDM mirror apart. You should test it to make sure the motor is still functional. Here is the back side of the plug of the JDM harness. The top right two wires (blue & green) is your motor power wires. Apply 12v to one and ground the the other, if the motor doesn't move then switch it around. One of those sequence should retract your mirror or extend it depending on its current position.
Taking the USDM mirror apart
The plugs does not go through the bracket so you have 2 options. Either cut the harness and re-solder or de-pin it.
I want a clean install so I tried to de-pin it. The first plug came out just fine but the green square plug was hard to do and I felt like it would break if I keep trying so I chop it off and break out the soldering iron.
By now you should have the USDM mirror apart and move on to the JDM mirror. It's pretty much the same process so I didn't take any pictures of it.
Here is the JDM motorized bracket taken out.
The only two wires you need is for the motor which is blue and green. I de-pin it at the plug and cut everything else.
Run the USDM harness through the JDM bracket.
JDM motorized bracket mount onto the USDM housing.
At this point everything can be assemble together. You should have two extra wires at the harness for the motor.
Here is the back of the USDM plug. Notice on the far left of the plug there is two empty slot. That is where your two wire goes for the motor.
That is the easy part of the install. Here comes the wiring part of it. The easiest way to wire it up is to use a momentary double pole double throw switch. The down side is that it doesn't look OEM and you have to hold the switch until the mirror fully retract and let go or vice versa. I wanted to use the OEM switch for a factory look so here is how I wired it up.
Instead of using the factory switch. You can use a momentary push button and it should be the same.
The JDM switch and housing does not fit into the USDM slot so I had to modify it. By doing this I lost my coin holder. Since I have some space left on the right and it looks empty so I decided to put a transmission temp gauge that I had laying around in it.
The OEM switch is a push on/off so I had to modified it to a momentary switch for the way I'm going to wire it up. I took apart the switch and just remove the metal rod (in the middle) that locks the switch when you push it in. Now it's a momentary switch.
Here is the final product of the switch with the gauge wired up. The placement of the gauge is in a semi awkward place because it's blocked by the steering wheel. You have to lean to the left a little to see the reading. Not a major concern since I don't monitor my tranny temp constantly but I might redo it when I do my black interior swap.
Onto the wiring. I tried looking for the JDM MPX door ecu for an OEM install but I couldn't justify the cost. I ended up getting a JDM Honda power folding mirror relay for $25. Only down side is you have to run the wires into the cabin where the relay is at.
Here is how I ran the two wires for the motor inside the cabin. I followed the OEM wiring that goes through the door and inside the cabin.
This is behind the speaker
I used a metal coat hanger to guide the wires inside
Everything taped up and put back together.
I will draw a diagram later but here is how I wired it up.
The two wires on the outside is your (+) and (-) to your motor. It doesn't matter which is which as long as you have both (+) from the left and right mirror to one wire and both (-) to the other.
The black wire is ground
Blue/green goes to one side of the switch
White/blue goes to the other side of the switch plus a power source.
Sometimes picture can explain it better so here it is. The red and white wire goes to your switch. The other red wire that split off goes to the power source to power the relay. I hook it up to a constant power source so I can retract my mirror without the key in place. A single push will retract your mirror and vice versa for extending it.
Here is where I tap in for a constant 12v. This is the plug for your ignition.
All I'm doing is taking the JDM power folding bracket and install it in the USDM housing with the USDM mirror and mirror motor.
Before taking the JDM mirror apart. You should test it to make sure the motor is still functional. Here is the back side of the plug of the JDM harness. The top right two wires (blue & green) is your motor power wires. Apply 12v to one and ground the the other, if the motor doesn't move then switch it around. One of those sequence should retract your mirror or extend it depending on its current position.
Taking the USDM mirror apart
The plugs does not go through the bracket so you have 2 options. Either cut the harness and re-solder or de-pin it.
I want a clean install so I tried to de-pin it. The first plug came out just fine but the green square plug was hard to do and I felt like it would break if I keep trying so I chop it off and break out the soldering iron.
By now you should have the USDM mirror apart and move on to the JDM mirror. It's pretty much the same process so I didn't take any pictures of it.
Here is the JDM motorized bracket taken out.
The only two wires you need is for the motor which is blue and green. I de-pin it at the plug and cut everything else.
Run the USDM harness through the JDM bracket.
JDM motorized bracket mount onto the USDM housing.
At this point everything can be assemble together. You should have two extra wires at the harness for the motor.
Here is the back of the USDM plug. Notice on the far left of the plug there is two empty slot. That is where your two wire goes for the motor.
That is the easy part of the install. Here comes the wiring part of it. The easiest way to wire it up is to use a momentary double pole double throw switch. The down side is that it doesn't look OEM and you have to hold the switch until the mirror fully retract and let go or vice versa. I wanted to use the OEM switch for a factory look so here is how I wired it up.
Instead of using the factory switch. You can use a momentary push button and it should be the same.
The JDM switch and housing does not fit into the USDM slot so I had to modify it. By doing this I lost my coin holder. Since I have some space left on the right and it looks empty so I decided to put a transmission temp gauge that I had laying around in it.
The OEM switch is a push on/off so I had to modified it to a momentary switch for the way I'm going to wire it up. I took apart the switch and just remove the metal rod (in the middle) that locks the switch when you push it in. Now it's a momentary switch.
Here is the final product of the switch with the gauge wired up. The placement of the gauge is in a semi awkward place because it's blocked by the steering wheel. You have to lean to the left a little to see the reading. Not a major concern since I don't monitor my tranny temp constantly but I might redo it when I do my black interior swap.
Onto the wiring. I tried looking for the JDM MPX door ecu for an OEM install but I couldn't justify the cost. I ended up getting a JDM Honda power folding mirror relay for $25. Only down side is you have to run the wires into the cabin where the relay is at.
Here is how I ran the two wires for the motor inside the cabin. I followed the OEM wiring that goes through the door and inside the cabin.
This is behind the speaker
I used a metal coat hanger to guide the wires inside
Everything taped up and put back together.
I will draw a diagram later but here is how I wired it up.
The two wires on the outside is your (+) and (-) to your motor. It doesn't matter which is which as long as you have both (+) from the left and right mirror to one wire and both (-) to the other.
The black wire is ground
Blue/green goes to one side of the switch
White/blue goes to the other side of the switch plus a power source.
Sometimes picture can explain it better so here it is. The red and white wire goes to your switch. The other red wire that split off goes to the power source to power the relay. I hook it up to a constant power source so I can retract my mirror without the key in place. A single push will retract your mirror and vice versa for extending it.
Here is where I tap in for a constant 12v. This is the plug for your ignition.
#4
I use the DPDT Switch, that for me is more easy to do.
DTDP Switch. On, Off, On
Easy install
Passenger Side with my last installation, the signal turn light.
Driver Side
And Open again. BTW, I have a extra Power Folding Mirror for sale. Same color.
DTDP Switch. On, Off, On
Easy install
Passenger Side with my last installation, the signal turn light.
Driver Side
And Open again. BTW, I have a extra Power Folding Mirror for sale. Same color.
#5
There's a way to run the wires through the hole of the power folding mirrors without cutting your wires. Here is how I did it.
Depin the harness from your oe harness:
Tape the metal prongs in a line like this. the tighter the better, that hole is small. I used scotch 3m professional masking take. Really hard to take off.
Stick a blank wire through the hole of the jdm power folding mirrors.
Tape that wire to the tip of the bunch of wire you taped.
Push and tug it through. It's better if you push the bunch of wire and gently tug of the single wire you ran through the motor.
No need for soldering! be sure to test your motor to see if it works with a 9v battery while you're at it to see if the motor is good or not.
Depin the harness from your oe harness:
Tape the metal prongs in a line like this. the tighter the better, that hole is small. I used scotch 3m professional masking take. Really hard to take off.
Stick a blank wire through the hole of the jdm power folding mirrors.
Tape that wire to the tip of the bunch of wire you taped.
Push and tug it through. It's better if you push the bunch of wire and gently tug of the single wire you ran through the motor.
No need for soldering! be sure to test your motor to see if it works with a 9v battery while you're at it to see if the motor is good or not.
#6
Thanks for that tip Tuanville. I'll have to remember this when I eventually get around to swapping the mirrors I bought I don't want to cut the existing harness
Last edited by captainva; 03-26-18 at 07:55 AM.
#7
There's a way to run the wires through the hole of the power folding mirrors without cutting your wires. Here is how I did it.
Depin the harness from your oe harness:
Tape the metal prongs in a line like this. the tighter the better, that hole is small. I used scotch 3m professional masking take. Really hard to take off.
Stick a blank wire through the hole of the jdm power folding mirrors.
Tape that wire to the tip of the bunch of wire you taped.
Push and tug it through. It's better if you push the bunch of wire and gently tug of the single wire you ran through the motor.
No need for soldering! be sure to test your motor to see if it works with a 9v battery while you're at it to see if the motor is good or not.
Depin the harness from your oe harness:
Tape the metal prongs in a line like this. the tighter the better, that hole is small. I used scotch 3m professional masking take. Really hard to take off.
Stick a blank wire through the hole of the jdm power folding mirrors.
Tape that wire to the tip of the bunch of wire you taped.
Push and tug it through. It's better if you push the bunch of wire and gently tug of the single wire you ran through the motor.
No need for soldering! be sure to test your motor to see if it works with a 9v battery while you're at it to see if the motor is good or not.
In the same way it was that I did it more of 3 years ago. I happy that someone else do the same. I hope that your power folding mirrors continue working as mine continue to do. Very happy for you.
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Stalley007 (09-13-23)
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#8
Soooooo, I had these up for sale and no one had responded to the sale so I decided to install them instead. The wire was pretty easy, the hardest part was running the wires. I followed the instructions on this thread but it wasn't that clear and this thread was the only one with pictures. The other threads were destroy by photobucket. , so I just wanted to add more info just for other people who want to do this DIY in the future. It IS a nice feature to have. OP did a really nice job on the write up and it helped out a lot. Here is what I did on the wiring.
Wiring: I put the switch near my cigarette lighter, I dont use the light where the ash tray is so I cut the light wire off and used the hardness and tapped my power folding switch to it. I use the outlet for my ash tray so I kept it functional. I just tapped the outlet to the mirrors to keep the function. The ash tray is color code to the power folding mirrors sorta.
Ash tray: (pink = constant power when car is on)
(white/green = power signal when a switch is activated <---- i think...)
(white/black = ground)
(Green = illumination light)
Power folding switch: Pink/green- tap it into ash tray pink wire (i hooked the honda relay to this also)
White/Black that is close to pink wire- Hook that up to honda relay.
White/black - hook to white/green on ash tray
Green - hook to green
honda relay: Mine came with different color than the OP but its the same. our ground wire is in the same slot. I don't have the color wire for the relay so I'll just do it by numbers, 4 being ground
1. hook to left and right mirrors motor positive wire
2.hook to power source
3. hook to White/Black wire on Power folding mirror switch(The one near the pink wire)
4. Ground
5. hook to left and right mirrors motor negative wire
Most of the accessories switch wire color code are the same in the inside. I chose to use the ash tray because that's where im going to put the switch near. Here is an example of what i did for the wiring.
Here is where I mounted my power folding mirror switch. get to keep my Coin tray f yeah!
When button is illuminated
I used the JDM glass. It has the blind spot divider line. Plus its bluish greenish which is really easy on the eye. I think the only feature I lost from using the JDM mirrors was the auto tint. My glass stay the same color even when I turned off or on the tint button on the rear view mirrors.But who the hell need that when you have bad *** blue mirrors!
Wiring: I put the switch near my cigarette lighter, I dont use the light where the ash tray is so I cut the light wire off and used the hardness and tapped my power folding switch to it. I use the outlet for my ash tray so I kept it functional. I just tapped the outlet to the mirrors to keep the function. The ash tray is color code to the power folding mirrors sorta.
Ash tray: (pink = constant power when car is on)
(white/green = power signal when a switch is activated <---- i think...)
(white/black = ground)
(Green = illumination light)
Power folding switch: Pink/green- tap it into ash tray pink wire (i hooked the honda relay to this also)
White/Black that is close to pink wire- Hook that up to honda relay.
White/black - hook to white/green on ash tray
Green - hook to green
honda relay: Mine came with different color than the OP but its the same. our ground wire is in the same slot. I don't have the color wire for the relay so I'll just do it by numbers, 4 being ground
1. hook to left and right mirrors motor positive wire
2.hook to power source
3. hook to White/Black wire on Power folding mirror switch(The one near the pink wire)
4. Ground
5. hook to left and right mirrors motor negative wire
Most of the accessories switch wire color code are the same in the inside. I chose to use the ash tray because that's where im going to put the switch near. Here is an example of what i did for the wiring.
Here is where I mounted my power folding mirror switch. get to keep my Coin tray f yeah!
When button is illuminated
I used the JDM glass. It has the blind spot divider line. Plus its bluish greenish which is really easy on the eye. I think the only feature I lost from using the JDM mirrors was the auto tint. My glass stay the same color even when I turned off or on the tint button on the rear view mirrors.But who the hell need that when you have bad *** blue mirrors!
#9
Hello
I read through your post on you JDM installation. You stated that if you had the door ecu you would have wired the mirrors differently. I found the Aristo door ecus and I wanted to know if you can tell me what you would had did differently.
I read through your post on you JDM installation. You stated that if you had the door ecu you would have wired the mirrors differently. I found the Aristo door ecus and I wanted to know if you can tell me what you would had did differently.
#10
I need to take my door panel off to redo the door trim mood lights. when I do I can take some photos of the stock folding mirror pin locations. I'm almost certain the ECUs are not much different between USDM with JDM.
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nlbrownjr (04-18-18)
#11
Hi would this be easier if you have the Aristo door ecus. I also have a fog light button on my current GS. Would that have to be relocated some were else. Would it be plug and play without chopping the wires. My car is a RHD GSMK2. mirrors are from Aristo.
#13
hi did you ever get the photos of the stock folding mirror locations?
#14
#15
It's behind the door panel. Square box
I couldn't do this mod as I didn't know the aristo mirrors were one piece and two piece. I'm sure I needed two piece housing. But of a wasted journey for me unless it can be done..
I couldn't do this mod as I didn't know the aristo mirrors were one piece and two piece. I'm sure I needed two piece housing. But of a wasted journey for me unless it can be done..
Last edited by Delp; 06-27-20 at 10:09 AM.