lyonkster

Like I said earlier, there is no radial play whatsoever, they fit very nicely on the hub. There is lots of play tangentially, meaning that with the rotor on the hub, you can rotate the rotor back and forth about 1/16", because the holes are much larger than the studs. So theoretically, you can get rotors sliding back and forth during braking/acceleration, but I don't think that can happen if you properly tighten the lug nuts.

The pads on the other hand are free to move around in the calipers, and I believe they have been known to cause popping sounds in some cases.

MarcyproJe

1/16 doesnt seem like that much of a difference. I still feel that I have much more gap than that and or the rotor does not fit the hub well. I guess ill find out when I pick up the new rotor later today. I just reserved it online.

MarcyproJe

UPDATE:
So i dont want to jinx it but after a spirited test drive with tons of braking, the car is SILENT!
Heres the run down of everything I did:

1. got new rotor for drivers side - installed as perfectly as I could with additional shims on the brake pads. Just rolled back and fourth it and stomped on the brakes right in the driveway.STILL CLUNKS

2.Lifted the car back up, put load on the drivers side suspension as suggested here, and started checking every bolt for torque. The 3/4 inch bolt on the lower control arm bushing was the only one that I could get to move with a large cheater bar. Moved maybe 1/8 inch. Every thing else checked out.

3. I inspected everything around the strut area and I found one thing that kind of stuck out. The rubber bushing in the bottom of the strut was slightly off on one side and it left a gap. I realized that maybe this might allow the strut to flex and strike the lower bracket metal on metal. I cut a piece of rubber hose and jammed it in the gap as hard as I could.

4. took a second test drive around the neighborhood braking at varying speeds to bed the brakes and attempt to repeat the sound. NOTHING! I tried very hard to get it to knock but I couldnt. I got the car all the way up to 60 mph down to 0 with my foot laid into the brakes and no sound.

I will monitor this closely as this car tends to make me happy for a day only to break my heart again.lol. But for now those of you who are suffering from these symptoms maybe this will give some ideas. I will update again in a day or two to confirm this as a permanent fix.

silverbul

Guys I've been down that road chasing the front end clunk & replacing every front end component. I found my problem. It started with the slider pins. The slider pins allow the brake caliper to move easily on the caliper bracket. When those slider pins start going bad. Everytime you hit your brakes your caliper is putting pressure on the bracket. & After a while the caliper bracket bolts start to back out & allows the whole caliper to move. That's why you hear the clunk when braking and going over small bumps and driving slow. I've put in new pins & made sure they were greased and put lock washers on my brake caliper bracket. So far no clinks or clunks. Hope this helps.

MarcyproJe

let me also add that this was not easy to spot. I had to look up at the bottom of the strut from under the car to see this gap in the bushing. It was not at all visible looking at it facing the hub area. Also, the strut did not move when I tried to flex it myself by hand with a pry bar. Not enough force

kphu

iTrader: (8)

Here's an update to my previous update...

Clunking sound has not returned so I'm thinking right now I'm in the clear.

Thanks for the suggestion but it probably doesn't apply in my case as I put in brand new pins and brackets on the caliper bracket.

Arcadian

God, the front ends on these cars are cursed. I actually had to cancel a vacation trip due to the money my car gobbled up on front end crap.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

I replaced all these parts in March and noticed a clunking sound past few weeks. I also noticed that when I'm taking a right turn or a right curve on the freeway, it feels like my front drive side wheel is about to buckle over, like the body is about to roll over and snap the suspension. Any ideas if I need to replace anything else besides motor mounts? It's a 1998 GS400 with 145k miles on it.

Rack and Pinion Bellow
Moog Tie Rod Ends (ES80585 and ES80584)
Moog Tie Rod End (EV80600 - two of these)
Moog Lower Balljoints
Moog Control Arms (RK620335 and RK620336)
TM Engineering Steering Rack Bushing

Mcon

iTrader: (1)

OP,

How long ago do you chance the Caliper Pins with fresh grease? Depend if you have a big wheels the grease dried and may sound on your calipers. You lose nothing with come back and look again if the grease is fine. If the grease is dry I recommend you to use a synthetic grease. That grease hold higher temperatures and will last longer. So, a lot of members here change those calipers for the Supra or LS model. IMHO Good luck

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

Anyone able to help me out? Appreciate it!

Mcon

iTrader: (1)

Well, I saw that you changed all those parts. But it is possible that one or more of those part has been defective by the manufacturer and only lasted several weeks or months and now you are doing this sound, or what are you feel when you turning the car to the right. Do you double check everything again? So you're sure everything is well and tight with your suspension parts? Take the car to a alignment shop and ask to the mechanical to verify if all those part you have in the car working as they should?

Also, do you install those parts or a shop? If was a shop, return the car there and tell the mechanic what happen with your car and you want to make sure your suspension parts are good and tight. If only I can say IMHO.

SpectraBlu

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like it might be your sway bar end links's or sway bar mounting bracket.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

So I took it back to the shop that installed all the parts for me (I've been going to them for years and trust their work), and they said that I just needed to get new tires and alignment since the steel was showing through the inner side of the PASSENGER tire and the driver side was also getting worn. I'm kind of confused as to how this could cause the clunking on my DRIVER side, but I guess that's why my car was pulling to the right?

Also, I did get an alignment right after installing all those parts and the alignment shop did tell me that my "right lower control arm was slightly pushed back and that the castor angle was not adjustable."

Can anyone make sense of all this? Is it still the motor mount/sway bar links/brackets? I'm a total noobie when it comes to the suspension parts...

zeroboyse

hello,can you elaborate on installing the pad hardware 'differently im having the same issue as you described

firelizard

iTrader: (1)

Who are you asking, and are you sure that hasn't already been answered earlier in the thread?