GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

high output alternator (searched plenty)

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Old 07-11-16, 08:29 AM
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xStayTuned
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Default high output alternator (searched plenty)

Im just trying to find out what everyone uses for a high output alternator, ive done a lot of searching but everything seems to be fairly old pre2010 so just thought id see if anyone has any recent encounters with where to buy and experience with some higher output alternator

thanks
Old 07-11-16, 11:15 AM
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lexo98
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Old 07-11-16, 01:27 PM
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I bought mines on eBay a 200 amp one for no more than $130 and works excellent with my sound system
Old 07-11-16, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by xStayTuned
Im just trying to find out what everyone uses for a high output alternator, ive done a lot of searching but everything seems to be fairly old pre2010 so just thought id see if anyone has any recent encounters with where to buy and experience with some higher output alternator

thanks
so BUMP them and keep the clutter down....

I have had a Iraggi 300A alternator for years now with 0 issues.

[
Old 07-11-16, 01:57 PM
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mizike
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Yeah I got mine, its a 200 AMP, got it for my sound system. Mechman and all them were pretty damn expensive. I paid 150 for mine, 200 amp, and they sell a new connection HO alternator that is 250 amp for 200 bux, from BNR PARTS. Ive seen mixed reviews but mostly solid, especially on EBAY they have a store there as well and have been doing this forever. Reviews speak for themselves and mine is solid and tested accurately. Just make sure you do the big 3 upgrade or else the HO alternator is pretty pointless, but you can get a really good one from BNR PARTS
Old 07-11-16, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mizike
Yeah I got mine, its a 200 AMP, got it for my sound system. Mechman and all them were pretty damn expensive. I paid 150 for mine, 200 amp, and they sell a new connection HO alternator that is 250 amp for 200 bux, from BNR PARTS. Ive seen mixed reviews but mostly solid, especially on EBAY they have a store there as well and have been doing this forever. Reviews speak for themselves and mine is solid and tested accurately. Just make sure you do the big 3 upgrade or else the HO alternator is pretty pointless, but you can get a really good one from BNR PARTS
That's who I bought mines from.. No bad reviews over here.
Old 07-11-16, 04:22 PM
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Yea, keep searching... I've posted many lists in plenty threads of whom to go through...

however, Iraggi used to be great, but got bought out by a government plan iirc and no longer are the same. Sakataj got hooked up before this happened when they were great and #1 sought after... I still stand behind DC Power due to how they build their internals.

Stay away from ebay claims! They claim a certain amount of amperes, but that claim is with a smaller pulley which makes you buy a smaller belt as well as create more stress on the alternator bought. If the above poster with the ebay alternator would put his alternator on a meter, it will DEFINITELY not show 200a. I bought one for shts and giggles and handed it over to my friend (who makes them for a living) and it does NOT put out what they claim; again, unless a smaller pulley is used, but even then, its spinning too fast and you'll get premature failure. Most are not built correctly anyways. DC Power used gold internals (less heat) better diodes etc...


keep searching...

Last edited by Mr Jokster; 07-11-16 at 04:25 PM.
Old 07-11-16, 06:25 PM
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I think that is with the older first ones bnr put out, the last couple of reviews metered during normal use they did put out the 200 and 250 amps. At idle they were at 120 to 150, then at 2k to 3k rpm they put out the 200 to 230 amps. THat is all we need. If they last for 2 or 3 years for 150 bux, its WAY BETTER than the stock 100 amp alternator that drops to 60 to 70 amps with the accessories on, and the Mechman and DC power ones were looking at 400 bux or more. Most amps, my sound system for example, just needs a little boost. It will drain the stock alternator in about a year, so these are good for 1500 to 2000 watt systems like mine and I can buy 3 of them before hitting the price of one of the excellent name brand ones, and they have a 1 year warranty. They are actually solid and have excellent reviews. I think they were worse when this first started but they have been doing this for a long time now and seem to have gotten it perfected. OF COURSE the Mechman and DC power will be better in general if you have the extra cash.
Old 07-12-16, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeekGS300
That's who I bought mines from.. No bad reviews over here.
he used to have a bad habit of being unattainable sometimes when he was working but when your a 1 man shop and everyone wants your product its hard to keep up

Originally Posted by Mr Jokster
Yea, keep searching... I've posted many lists in plenty threads of whom to go through...

however, Iraggi used to be great, but got bought out by a government plan iirc and no longer are the same. Sakataj got hooked up before this happened when they were great and #1 sought after... I still stand behind DC Power due to how they build their internals.

Stay away from ebay claims! They claim a certain amount of amperes, but that claim is with a smaller pulley which makes you buy a smaller belt as well as create more stress on the alternator bought. If the above poster with the ebay alternator would put his alternator on a meter, it will DEFINITELY not show 200a. I bought one for shts and giggles and handed it over to my friend (who makes them for a living) and it does NOT put out what they claim; again, unless a smaller pulley is used, but even then, its spinning too fast and you'll get premature failure. Most are not built correctly anyways. DC Power used gold internals (less heat) better diodes etc...


keep searching...
when did Dominic get bought out Nathaniel? i mean i dont keep up with him a lot but i was unaware of this... i used him cause he is fairly local to me and everyone wanted his equipment. my alternator has a LIFETIME WARRANTY on it (which cost me a extra $150 but worth it)

i personally never liked Mechman and stayed away from them, back in the day as they had "issues" with their actual amps and life span on their parts. DC was always good but they like Iraggi took awhile to get. i havent bought one in like 6 years (knock on wood) and im so out of the loop nowadays
Old 07-12-16, 07:24 AM
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I installed Mechman 240amp with XS power BIg 3 gauge wires and XS Power XP950 second battery. Purchased from Sonic Electronics (get it from them, you might get a discount like I did). Been using Torque app(it's not totally accurate but it would do until I get a SMD volt meter) to monitor my voltage. Before the install, bass would murder my stock alternator to 11.8volts everytime the bass hits. Everything would dim. After the install it would drop to 12.9 on very low bass notes. The dimming isn't noticeable anymore. Daily playing now is usually 13.2 volts at idle. What helped I think was the grounding. Get a clean contact for ground. Clean those terminals (very important). I had a stinger isolator but I decided not to use it. I would show the engine bay but the hood wire is acting up so I do want to open it if I don't have to.




Old 07-12-16, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by sakataj

when did Dominic get bought out Nathaniel? i mean i dont keep up with him a lot but i was unaware of this... i used him cause he is fairly local to me and everyone wanted his equipment. my alternator has a LIFETIME WARRANTY on it (which cost me a extra $150 but worth it)

i personally never liked Mechman and stayed away from them, back in the day as they had "issues" with their actual amps and life span on their parts. DC was always good but they like Iraggi took awhile to get. i havent bought one in like 6 years (knock on wood) and im so out of the loop nowadays
Actually when you think about it, thats a good thing The reason why they take so long is because they're made per order by hand meticulously, thus giving a better product. Most others are just mass produced with lower quality components.

As for the buy-out, I actually may be wrong, its been a while cant recall the details until I begin typing LoL. NOW as I think about it again, he got a huge government contract which changed his scope of business. Being that the government probably pays him $100k per alternator (because they can LoL) he caters to them. I'm sure your warranty is still valid..

Take that last paragraph as a grain of sand There is some precedence, I just cant recall the details. However, I do remember the product not being as good. A local shop who used him for MANY years dropped them because on more than one occasion (within just his customers) did they cause a fire under the hood. This was after you bought yours of course. This too is why I wont trust ebay high output alternators. I wont argue with people on here because apparently "they work just fine", but when you know how an alternator is built and what is done to get more output in a CHEAP way and how its SUPPOSED to be built to handle the extra load... You just dont trust a $100 'high output', well anything! Probably the same people that buy the $100 ebay turbo kits LoL (ok I'm off topic )
Old 07-12-16, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SPRTNYDSN
I installed Mechman 240amp with XS power BIg 3 gauge wires and XS Power XP950 second battery. Purchased from Sonic Electronics (get it from them, you might get a discount like I did). Been using Torque app(it's not totally accurate but it would do until I get a SMD volt meter) to monitor my voltage. Before the install, bass would murder my stock alternator to 11.8volts everytime the bass hits. Everything would dim. After the install it would drop to 12.9 on very low bass notes. The dimming isn't noticeable anymore. Daily playing now is usually 13.2 volts at idle. What helped I think was the grounding. Get a clean contact for ground. Clean those terminals (very important). I had a stinger isolator but I decided not to use it. I would show the engine bay but the hood wire is acting up so I do want to open it if I don't have to.
Sounds like good news However, what do the amperes look like? Voltage is always going to drop, thats not the issue, its how the amperes draw that causes the lights to flicker. I'm curious to see THOSE numbers Most likely though, the dim lights stopped more from the extra juice (battery). Usually the purpose of a high output alternator is so you DONT have to get a second battery I'm very curious to see how the alternator works without the extra juice. Have you taken a long trip bumpin hard for a very long time so you can suck the batteries dry? THAT will test the alternator What equipment are you running? Do you know how many amps your amplifiers draw?

I ran 4 batteries with the stock alternator for 10 years and never had a problem No dim lights or anything because I never drained the batteries enough to run off the alternator.


ok i'm done. I get too much into the science of things.


Oh and... You MUST get that isolator back in there! Or at the very least, run a diode. You WILL destroy your batteries! The ONLY way you can run multiple batteries without them going bad (which is still a bad idea) is to have all of them (or both in your case) be the exact same battery. In short, batteries are not all created equal (even if they're the same model). They all discharge at their own rates, so if you have them wired together and you're playing music or using whatever accessories, one will drop amperes just a little more than the other, so what happens when you turn the car off? The battery that has a bit less juice will suck the juice from the other battery so it will equalize its content, basically they try to charge each other. Now you have 2 batteries with less juice than before. In time of this happening over and over, they begin to lose their charging ability. Especially if you have a deep cycle as an auxiliary battery and a normal starter battery up front.
Old 07-12-16, 12:55 PM
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The thing is with a solid battery I have ran 2000 watt systems with serious bass hits on my soundqubed subwoofer and not had dimming of the lights or anything and that is with my saabs stock alternators. The battery is key for the dimming of lights. Unless your running 5000 true watts or something but I've never needed more than a true 2k watts in a full sound system that blows most humans away lol. The alternator you just burn up quickly if you use the stock ones so a good bump to 150 to 200 amp alternator should last for a couple years. The battery is highly important and the big 3 upgrade is a must. I have only used a high output alternator once. The battery and big 3 has worked perfect on all my cars but this lexus us a 2002 and I had to put a new alternator In so went with the 200 amp from bnr no issues. Will it last more than a year well we shall see lol
Old 07-12-16, 01:00 PM
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Not necessarily true for bnr they have been doing this forever and we do this with car Amps all the time and capacitors so a company can take an alternator and get it to 200 or 250 amps pretty easily and reliable just like when we rebuild our amplifiers with better quality wiring and capacitors. 100 bucks a little low but 170 or so seems about right for a stronger rebuilt higher out put alternator. There are some crap companies on ebay though like the turbo kits your referring to and plenty of crap alternators but pretty sure bnr is solid. 1000s ofor great reviews and personal experiences of people using them.


QUOTE=Mr Jokster;9550377]Actually when you think about it, thats a good thing The reason why they take so long is because they're made per order by hand meticulously, thus giving a better product. Most others are just mass produced with lower quality components.

As for the buy-out, I actually may be wrong, its been a while cant recall the details until I begin typing LoL. NOW as I think about it again, he got a huge government contract which changed his scope of business. Being that the government probably pays him $100k per alternator (because they can LoL) he caters to them. I'm sure your warranty is still valid..

Take that last paragraph as a grain of sand There is some precedence, I just cant recall the details. However, I do remember the product not being as good. A local shop who used him for MANY years dropped them because on more than one occasion (within just his customers) did they cause a fire under the hood. This was after you bought yours of course. This too is why I wont trust ebay high output alternators. I wont argue with people on here because apparently "they work just fine", but when you know how an alternator is built and what is done to get more output in a CHEAP way and how its SUPPOSED to be built to handle the extra load... You just dont trust a $100 'high output', well anything! Probably the same people that buy the $100 ebay turbo kits LoL (ok I'm off topic )[/QUOTE]
Old 07-12-16, 02:00 PM
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I'm not even gonna begin explaining my expertise in electronics... Just by your comment that "batteries are key to light dimming" shows your ignorance. Theres a science to it all, more than just supply and demand, and I've done a plethora of writeups in the past on this subject and quite frankly, I've learned its not worth taking the time. If it 'works' for you... Then But your knowledge of the subject is of a "C" mechanic and not an "A" mechanic. A "C" mechanic bandaides a problem, an "A" mechanic figures out whats causing the problem.


As for true powered systems and how a car electrical system reacts to them, well it all depends on how the amp was made, does it supply its own power with a bank of loaded capacitors, does it...

OMG STOP MR JOKSTER!!!! DONT... DO... IT...! STOP TYPING!!!

But I cant, I feel I MUST educate people, to help them learn!

YEA BUT MOST PEOPLE DONT CARE!

I know, I just cant help it. I dont want people to struggle, waste money by doing things twice because it was done wrong the first time. Or make things worse!

HEY!

What?

I SAID STOP!




ok


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