P0441 Charcoal Canister
#1
Instructor
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Hi Experts,
1998 GS400 with the dreaded P0441. Replaced gas cap to no avail. Toyota tech advises no valve leaks and other tests are fine, other than purge solenoid periodically sticking, but can also be something with the charcoal canister. Furthermore, since both parts are in the same place and labor intensive, the recommendation is to replace both at the same time. Lexus parts is closed now, but my research shows that the solenoid can be say $100 but the canister and solenoid together is close to $400. Can these parts even be bought separately, and even if they can, do folks agree to replace both at the same time anyway? I want to keep the car and emissions inspection is May 2017.
It would be worse to save a couple hundred on parts, only to have to go back in and spend those same couple hundred again on labor to replace the canister. Toyota wants $410 in parts and $360 in labor. (I guess I can save a hundred, maybe two, on labor elsewhere, but there is some reassurance with it being done by Toyota once and for all)
TIA
1998 GS400 with the dreaded P0441. Replaced gas cap to no avail. Toyota tech advises no valve leaks and other tests are fine, other than purge solenoid periodically sticking, but can also be something with the charcoal canister. Furthermore, since both parts are in the same place and labor intensive, the recommendation is to replace both at the same time. Lexus parts is closed now, but my research shows that the solenoid can be say $100 but the canister and solenoid together is close to $400. Can these parts even be bought separately, and even if they can, do folks agree to replace both at the same time anyway? I want to keep the car and emissions inspection is May 2017.
It would be worse to save a couple hundred on parts, only to have to go back in and spend those same couple hundred again on labor to replace the canister. Toyota wants $410 in parts and $360 in labor. (I guess I can save a hundred, maybe two, on labor elsewhere, but there is some reassurance with it being done by Toyota once and for all)
TIA
#2
Lead Lap
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I just went thru this with my evap system. I had the three famous evap codes. I was ready to pull the trigger on a new canister and the valves that are attached to it. but i started with testing the easy to get to valves first. low and behold, the first one i tested was bad. but at first it wasn't. it passed the ohms test and the first time i used 12 volts to actuate it it worked but as soon as i continued to click it, it failed and wouldn't click anymore. it was the one on the pass side of the engine that controls the vacuum to the canister. its called a canister closed valve. its worth a shot to give it a go yourself. than do the same with the purge solenoid on the driv. side of the engine.
#3
Pole Position
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Just got p0446 code.
Thanks guys.
Will keep my eye to this thread as well!
Thanks guys.
Will keep my eye to this thread as well!
#5
Lead Lap
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Subscribed. I've read all the back n fourth threads on p0440, p0430, p0446. I keep getting p0446. At first it'd stay off for a few months, then a few weeks now it comes back on with in a week once I clear the codes. Going to have to take her in get it up on a lift and check it out.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
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I had same code for like 6 years. Came on, went off etc until it finally just stayed on. I already knew it was the valve because of its indeterminacy, it had to be electrical and being that the valve is electric, I swapped it out for like $30 bucks I think and the problem is gone...
You need to do a fog test and that will narrow it down to where the leak is. If its coming from the rear, then probably the valve. Its quite common since its exposed to all debris. Many have posted pics of their valves after replacing and they're all gunked up.
At one point I did find a complete canister for $35 shipped on ebay
Its worth finding one that cheap then buying a new valve and do it all together.
You need to do a fog test and that will narrow it down to where the leak is. If its coming from the rear, then probably the valve. Its quite common since its exposed to all debris. Many have posted pics of their valves after replacing and they're all gunked up.
At one point I did find a complete canister for $35 shipped on ebay
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Last edited by Mr Jokster; 09-11-16 at 07:17 PM.
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#8
Instructor
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I had same code for like 6 years. Came on, went off etc until it finally just stayed on. I already knew it was the valve because of its indeterminacy, it had to be electrical and being that the valve is electric, I swapped it out for like $30 bucks I think and the problem is gone...
You need to do a fog test and that will narrow it down to where the leak is. If its coming from the rear, then probably the valve. Its quite common since its exposed to all debris. Many have posted pics of their valves after replacing and they're all gunked up.
At one point I did find a complete canister for $35 shipped on ebay
Its worth finding one that cheap then buying a new valve and do it all together.
You need to do a fog test and that will narrow it down to where the leak is. If its coming from the rear, then probably the valve. Its quite common since its exposed to all debris. Many have posted pics of their valves after replacing and they're all gunked up.
At one point I did find a complete canister for $35 shipped on ebay
![Thumb Up](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#10
Instructor
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#11
Lexus Test Driver
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yep, but if its not the actual canister, its kind of a waste of money, both the part AND the install. The valve can be replaced without removing the entire unit. Lexus goes "by the book" and removes the whole axle to pull the canister, a DIY can do it without all that work. I wouldnt doubt the dealer would charge hundreds of dollars for the replacement, just for labor.
The valve can be tested as well. just need to run power straight to the valve and see if you can hear it click.
The valve can be tested as well. just need to run power straight to the valve and see if you can hear it click.
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