Enabling DRL on a 98 GS
#1
Lexus Test Driver
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Does anyone here know how to make a 98 GS have DRL? I know they came out for the 99 models, but i was curious if I have daytime running lights, if it will fix the rough idle issue. Since if you turn on your parking lights, the rough idle goes away, so maybe if we have DRL, then the rough idle will too?
#2
Lexus Champion
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The dealer should be able to install a relay for you that will give you DRL functionality.
Make a 'WTB' post in the Classifieds - I bet someone has had theirs removed, and could be had for cheap.
Make a 'WTB' post in the Classifieds - I bet someone has had theirs removed, and could be had for cheap.
#3
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Originally posted by GSquicksilver
Since if you turn on your parking lights, the rough idle goes away, so maybe if we have DRL, then the rough idle will too?
Since if you turn on your parking lights, the rough idle goes away, so maybe if we have DRL, then the rough idle will too?
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I haven't heard that one before.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
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i have late model 99 with drl , does not help low idle in the least. only when you actually click on parking or headlights does it register a load and hence raise idle
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#6
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Geez, just keep the parking or headlights on all the time. It's no biggie. They go off automatically when you turn off the car anyway (unless you have the trunk or a door open).
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#8
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Funny...when people have DRL's, they want to get rid of them...when people don't have them, they want them....I disabled mine as soon as I got the car, I hated the way they detracted from the car in the daytime..plus you can't sneak up on people with the lights off at night with DRL
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#10
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I absolutely hate my DRL and they dont help the rough idle at all. I would love to have a way to disable them. One thing I still dont know for sure, is when does the rough idle tend to begin for you guys that got the GS new. Like 30K miles? 50K miles?
#12
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Here is the link: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ht=DRL+Disable
>>First, let me express my reluctance in advising anyone on how to disable DRLs since I sincerely feel they contribute some level of additional safety factor for all of us.
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
<<
>>First, let me express my reluctance in advising anyone on how to disable DRLs since I sincerely feel they contribute some level of additional safety factor for all of us.
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
<<
#13
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I basically followed the aforeposted instructions...but I used the original fuse that was in DRL 2 and pulled out the one leg of the fuse and put it back with with the jumper to DRL 1. Here's a crappy picture from my cell phone camera:
![](http://home.cwru.edu/~jqt/lexus/drldisable.jpg)
Actually now that I look at it..I guess I ended up using a 5 amp fuse..I remember losing the original 30amp down a drain.
![](http://home.cwru.edu/~jqt/lexus/drldisable.jpg)
Actually now that I look at it..I guess I ended up using a 5 amp fuse..I remember losing the original 30amp down a drain.
Last edited by Tranman; 05-15-03 at 05:59 PM.