Rear fender hella pull help!
#1
Rear fender hella pull help!(UPDATED)
So I'm tired of my conservative look and now want something more beefy, I did my front fenders but now I don't have any idea on how to do my rear. I've seen build threads but it doesn't get into details. I'm doing everything at home. The rear has double panels and I don't want to do door work. So if you did custom fenders or pulled your rear fenders then any Detailed advice on how you accomplished it would help. I need to go out minimum of 2.5" in the rear. Here is a picture of my fronts.
Last edited by Tuanville; 04-05-18 at 02:53 PM. Reason: To add (UPDATE) on title
#2
Well first off, obviously cut the little 1" lip thats in the rear, then on the panel side of the wheel well, you would make incisions like 2 inches apart from front of the well to the rear. The incision length would depend on how much pull you want. After all the incisions you pull each "tab" out then start with the same body work as you have done here in the front. Details orientation all depends on how much work you want to put into it. Most people will tack weld the pulled tabs together, then begin with lots of body filler. Or you can do it more rigidly and fill in all the gaps with weld or more metal paneling, grind it clean and use body filler as needed to smooth things out.
#4
I've seen this picture here and sorta want my rear fenders to look like his. It seems like he didn't have to touch the door. Maybe I can achieve this look through mr jokster advice.
#5
Well first off, obviously cut the little 1" lip thats in the rear, then on the panel side of the wheel well, you would make incisions like 2 inches apart from front of the well to the rear. The incision length would depend on how much pull you want. After all the incisions you pull each "tab" out then start with the same body work as you have done here in the front. Details orientation all depends on how much work you want to put into it. Most people will tack weld the pulled tabs together, then begin with lots of body filler. Or you can do it more rigidly and fill in all the gaps with weld or more metal paneling, grind it clean and use body filler as needed to smooth things out.
#6
That's an interesting take on it, have you found any other angles of that car, I would love to see..
#7
If you do a large flare without going into the door it's always going to look half-assed or at least a little bit off, no matter the quality of the bodywork. Not only does the door interrupt the radius of the wheel arch, as you can see from the photo above, the factory bodyline starts in the door.
If you Google "johnny dip lexus gs" you'll get more photos of that car.
But most pulls you can get away with not touching the door, as long as you don't put a crazy duck-lip angle on it that clashes with the door opening.
If you Google "johnny dip lexus gs" you'll get more photos of that car.
But most pulls you can get away with not touching the door, as long as you don't put a crazy duck-lip angle on it that clashes with the door opening.
Last edited by firelizard; 03-19-17 at 10:17 PM.
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#8
Sup man, ive been off this site for over a year but just decided to log on today. Juat so happened to be the first interesting topic....... From my personal experience it all depends on the look you are trying to achieve. i.e hellapull/with tuck, hellapull/flush, radius/tuck, high radius/flush. And depends if you want any camber or not. EVERYTHING comes into play. I did a 2" hellapull that required cutting and modifying the inner panel and reshaping the lip, but I didn't need to do any door or jamb work. Someone rear ended me shortly after, then I got into the radius game on my build. Anyway, if you are trying to keep natural body lines on the quarter, kiss that goodbye. Not gonna happen. If you cut the inner panel up to where you want to start pulling, it makes the pull alot easier. Also, how ever high you cut the inner panel, you can then tack weld it to the inside of the outer skin. (Similar to tubing) This will allow you to run wider wheels and also air down more comfortable if you are on air. If you have IG check out my IG its @Richardson_hi I also did alot of suspension work on @jdmc23 car as well. I hope I had some insight for you. If you have any questions it'll probably be easier to get me on IG than here. Good luck.
#9
Sup man, ive been off this site for over a year but just decided to log on today. Juat so happened to be the first interesting topic....... From my personal experience it all depends on the look you are trying to achieve. i.e hellapull/with tuck, hellapull/flush, radius/tuck,EVERYTHING comes into play. I did a 2" hellapull that required cutting and modifying the inner panel and reshaping the lip, but I didn't need to do any door or jamb work. Someone rear ended me shortly after, then I got into the radius game on my build. Anyway, if you are trying to keep natural body lines on the quarter, kiss that goodbye. Not gonna happen. If you cut the inner panel up to where you want to start pulling, it makes the pull alot easier. Also, how ever high you cut the inner panel, you can then tack weld it to the inside of the outer skin. (Similar to tubing) This will allow you to run wider wheels and also air down more comfortable if you are on air. If you have IG check out my IG its @Richardson_hi I also did alot of suspension work on @jdmc23 car as well. I hope I had some insight for you. If you have any questions it'll probably be easier to get me on IG than here. Good luck.
#12
If you do a large flare without going into the door it's always going to look half-assed or at least a little bit off, no matter the quality of the bodywork. Not only does the door interrupt the radius of the wheel arch, as you can see from the photo above, the factory bodyline starts in the door.
If you Google "johnny dip lexus gs" you'll get more photos of that car.
But most pulls you can get away with not touching the door, as long as you don't put a crazy duck-lip angle on it that clashes with the door opening.
If you Google "johnny dip lexus gs" you'll get more photos of that car.
But most pulls you can get away with not touching the door, as long as you don't put a crazy duck-lip angle on it that clashes with the door opening.
#14
its hard for me to imagine what this would do. I don't know too much about radius. I need to fit some 19x11.5 -12 in the rear. I don't think I can get by without a flare or pull. I also want the most contact as possible also. So adding ridiculous camber is a big no no. Do you have any pictures or a better example? I been too busy with work and haven't worked on my rear yet. I'm still seeking options. Thanks for your input.
#15
19x11.5 -12?
This is 19x12 -25 (19.5mm more poke than yours) on pulled fenders:
http://www.stancenation.com/2010/06/...sports-vip-gs/
If you want to do this with just a fender pull, you will need ridiculous camber, period.
If you're on a tight schedule, buy Serial Nine's rear overfenders. 50mm is enough to cover your wheels without crazy camber.
This is an example of a well done custom widebody with radiused arches.
http://www.stancenation.com/2010/12/26/radiused-aristo/
This user is also doing steel radiused and widened arches on their GS, with Serial Nine front fenders.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ody-build.html
As you can tell by the time between posts and the amount of work remaining, it is not a short process unless you know what you are doing and have the time AND the money to dedicate to it. Even then, short is probably the wrong term. "Less long" would be more accurate.
This is 19x12 -25 (19.5mm more poke than yours) on pulled fenders:
http://www.stancenation.com/2010/06/...sports-vip-gs/
If you want to do this with just a fender pull, you will need ridiculous camber, period.
If you're on a tight schedule, buy Serial Nine's rear overfenders. 50mm is enough to cover your wheels without crazy camber.
This is an example of a well done custom widebody with radiused arches.
http://www.stancenation.com/2010/12/26/radiused-aristo/
This user is also doing steel radiused and widened arches on their GS, with Serial Nine front fenders.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ody-build.html
As you can tell by the time between posts and the amount of work remaining, it is not a short process unless you know what you are doing and have the time AND the money to dedicate to it. Even then, short is probably the wrong term. "Less long" would be more accurate.
Last edited by firelizard; 03-28-17 at 04:31 PM.