Help w/ 2005 Gs 300 tranny fluid change
#1
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Help w/ 2005 Gs 300 tranny fluid change
hello all
i have been reading some threads about changing the fluid in my GS300. I have noticed when cold tranny will slip until I rev the engine or hit the gas while driving to increase the fluid. After that, all is good.
Here re is what is was thing of doing. Since the fluid is dirty, I was going to change the fluid by sucking the fluid from the dip stick with an extractor. I will then replace thebfluid with the amount that was extracted. I plan to do this over time until the fluid looks clean. After fluid looks clean, I will then drop the pan and replace the filter.
Does anyone see wrong with doing it this way. I rather not start the car to push the fluid out.
Also I'm assuming the fluid should be between the hot marks. But should it be in the middle or toward the upper end of the hot marks
thanks
i have been reading some threads about changing the fluid in my GS300. I have noticed when cold tranny will slip until I rev the engine or hit the gas while driving to increase the fluid. After that, all is good.
Here re is what is was thing of doing. Since the fluid is dirty, I was going to change the fluid by sucking the fluid from the dip stick with an extractor. I will then replace thebfluid with the amount that was extracted. I plan to do this over time until the fluid looks clean. After fluid looks clean, I will then drop the pan and replace the filter.
Does anyone see wrong with doing it this way. I rather not start the car to push the fluid out.
Also I'm assuming the fluid should be between the hot marks. But should it be in the middle or toward the upper end of the hot marks
thanks
#2
That's a very inefficient way to do it... why don't you drain the oil first then drop the pan? Once you drop the pan and remove the oil strainer more tranny fluid will pour out. Put everything back together and then pour the oil in.
#4
There is a drai plug on the bottom of the pan. Drain it that way. Way better than sucking it out. You can do the drain and fill method and running the car between fills.
Some machines are better than others, You want the type that replaces the fluid as it exits the transmission. You don't want the machine that does a forced fluid flush.
Some machines are better than others, You want the type that replaces the fluid as it exits the transmission. You don't want the machine that does a forced fluid flush.
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The purpose of me doing this is because I read you should not drain all the fluid because this could lead to tranny damaged. Additionally, I really don't see the difference in this and disconnecting the hose to potentially run the team dry.
furthermore, you can accurately drain and replace and drive a lot easier without damaging the tdrain plug that I read damages the thread.
My plans was to replace then drive drive and repeat until fluid starts to appear reddish. Then change filter. If I change the filter at the beginning of the cycle, all the contaminates will be in the new filter
furthermore, you can accurately drain and replace and drive a lot easier without damaging the tdrain plug that I read damages the thread.
My plans was to replace then drive drive and repeat until fluid starts to appear reddish. Then change filter. If I change the filter at the beginning of the cycle, all the contaminates will be in the new filter
#6
You will not damage the threads if you tighten the drain plug with a torque wrench to the correct spec.
The way I do it is the following. It replaces all your fluid without doing the dilution method.
1) Pull the plug and drain the pan.
2) replace with the proper amount of new fluid...2 qts.
3) remove the transmission return line going to the radiator and attach a clear tube to it.
4) Put tube into a container marked at 1 1/2 qts.
5) Run engine until 1 1/2 qts fill the container and then stop engine.
6) Fill the transmission with 1 1/2 qts.
7) Repeats steps 5 and 6 until you see new fluid running through the clear tube.
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Ok thanks Bruce
couple of questions
1. Which tube is the return line.
2. So I should not replace the filter?
3. How many quarts approximately should I buy total to start the process?
couple of questions
1. Which tube is the return line.
2. So I should not replace the filter?
3. How many quarts approximately should I buy total to start the process?
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#13
I will do some research on the return line and get back.
Replace the filter if you want. You will actually learn a bunch by what's sitting at the bottom of your pan if things are wearing abnormally.
Last edited by bruceb58; 03-23-17 at 04:19 PM.
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