Alternatives to SRT intake for gs400?
#3
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you tried disconnecting the battery terminals and a couple of minutes and hooking it back up to drive around, I think the ecu will need a good couple of days before it can adjust to the new intake. that's what I did with mine and I noticed the gains
#6
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I'll put on my flame suit here but honestly even with the best tune in the world and this intake, you'll only get 10 rear wheel horsepower if everything else is stock. Exhaust might get you 5-10 more. Headers 20. You might feel a slight kick, but these cars aren't light. Don't expect 0-60 or 1/4 mile times to go down. This is with any intake too, so I guess my advice is not to get hooked on brand names or shelling out for more unless you really want to. I like the way the K&N looks best personally.
#7
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I'll put on my flame suit here but honestly even with the best tune in the world and this intake, you'll only get 10 rear wheel horsepower if everything else is stock. Exhaust might get you 5-10 more. Headers 20. You might feel a slight kick, but these cars aren't light. Don't expect 0-60 or 1/4 mile times to go down. This is with any intake too, so I guess my advice is not to get hooked on brand names or shelling out for more unless you really want to. I like the way the K&N looks best personally.
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#8
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Oh also, my Apexi Neo tuner was around $200, and the Boomslang harness $200, which plugged right in.
If you don't buy the harness, you will have to splice it into the ECU wires.
I would keep the intake, I think they sound cool. I have a tuner but you won't get the low-end torque back.
You can get high end power with a tune, but not much low end with just an intake.
Basically, leaning out the fuel at high RPMs gives the car more power - hotter explosions without being dangerous. This is open loop operation.
It does this really only by the MAF reading, which the tuner can easily manipulate.
At low RPMS/cruising, the tuner would have to do the same thing. The problem is, once you do this, the stock ECU starts fighting you.
Because at low RPMS/cruising, the stock ECU always wants a perfect 14.7:1 air-to-fuel ratio. This is closed loop operation.
It does this by O2 sensor info as well as MAF, and coolant sensor temp.
So if you try subtracting or leaning out the fuel, it will resort back to 14.7:1 - you cant go to 15:1 or 15.3:1 or something leaner for more power at low-RPM.
Headers would maybe get you more a little more low end/mid range torque because there is alot more air flowing all around, same with forced induction.
The only other way to get more low-end is to go back to a more restrictive exhaust/intake because the exit pressure is higher.
A shorter rear end like 3.77 will always spin the RPMS higher and give more torque to the rear wheels too- more lowend.
These aren't big displacement motors, but really like to be wound up.
If you don't buy the harness, you will have to splice it into the ECU wires.
I would keep the intake, I think they sound cool. I have a tuner but you won't get the low-end torque back.
You can get high end power with a tune, but not much low end with just an intake.
Basically, leaning out the fuel at high RPMs gives the car more power - hotter explosions without being dangerous. This is open loop operation.
It does this really only by the MAF reading, which the tuner can easily manipulate.
At low RPMS/cruising, the tuner would have to do the same thing. The problem is, once you do this, the stock ECU starts fighting you.
Because at low RPMS/cruising, the stock ECU always wants a perfect 14.7:1 air-to-fuel ratio. This is closed loop operation.
It does this by O2 sensor info as well as MAF, and coolant sensor temp.
So if you try subtracting or leaning out the fuel, it will resort back to 14.7:1 - you cant go to 15:1 or 15.3:1 or something leaner for more power at low-RPM.
Headers would maybe get you more a little more low end/mid range torque because there is alot more air flowing all around, same with forced induction.
The only other way to get more low-end is to go back to a more restrictive exhaust/intake because the exit pressure is higher.
A shorter rear end like 3.77 will always spin the RPMS higher and give more torque to the rear wheels too- more lowend.
These aren't big displacement motors, but really like to be wound up.
Last edited by GS400V8; 05-25-17 at 12:37 PM.
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