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Okay here is my grey plug. I still have to use the shift lock release with a screwdriver to take mine out of drive or D. I can go back to any gear from P park but can't go back to park. But when I moved the black wire with red stripe to the bottom row and very outside I believe then I got 12 volts to my maf and I could rev fine and all cel codes were gone.
Okay here is my grey plug. I still have to use the shift lock release with a screwdriver to take mine out of drive or D. I can go back to any gear from P park but can't go back to park. But when I moved the black wire with red stripe to the bottom row and very outside I believe then I got 12 volts to my maf and I could rev fine and all cel codes were gone.
Ok so when you REV Good is that Only In Park ? What about in D Driving mode?
So kenny can't rev past 3000 rpm but doesn't have shifter problems. AristoJ doesnt have rev problems but has shifter problems.
You shouldn't have any of these symptoms.
Maybe the true correct way to wire the terminal is somewhere in between the two ways you guys have them wired?
Also you must run the correct RPM wire from the igniter. If not, you might be stuck in limp mode like kenny.
Here is a quote from user 99GS3:
I had ran the wire through the harness and added the pin to the igniter and soldered to the ecu plug before shipping the engine to Kyle, so it was already done for a total plug and play hookup for him.
But you found your answer there in SlvrGs300 old thread. That wire is correct, you need to add a pin to the missing location on the igniter (you can pull the pin out of your GE igniter and reuse).
Don't cut the wire on the ecu plug just tap into the signal for it. This will make the tach work but also turns out some of the other dash lights that stay on if it isn't connected.
Here is a pic below of the correct way the grey terminal should be on a 2jzgte vvti engine:
So kenny can't rev past 3000 rpm but doesn't have shifter problems. AristoJ doesnt have rev problems but has shifter problems.
You shouldn't have any of these symptoms.
Maybe the true correct way to wire the terminal is somewhere in between the two ways you guys have them wired?
Also you must run the correct RPM wire from the igniter. If not, you might be stuck in limp mode like kenny.
Here is a quote from user 99GS3:
Here is a pic below of the correct way the grey terminal should be on a 2jzgte vvti engine:
But did you do this? - "Don't cut the wire on the ecu plug just tap into the signal for it. This will make the tach work but also turns out some of the other dash lights that stay on if it isn't connected"
But did you do this? - "Don't cut the wire on the ecu plug just tap into the signal for it. This will make the tach work but also turns out some of the other dash lights that stay on if it isn't connected"
ok I just check my MAF Sensor connector its not getting 12V i only got 1.9V which is very low... I disconnect it from the sensor to check this or do i have to have it connected on the MAF sensor to check for 12V ?
So you did add that wire to the aristo igniter plug? And then did not cut but supposed to splice from that added wire into that black/yellow wire?
You have to disconnect the maf and then use the appropiate grounds and hot wire to check voltage going to it. The max voltage the maf reads is only 5v but usually only goes up to 3.7v at WOT, IIRC
1.6v during idle is about normal so your 1.9v is fine
2.5v is about cruising
So you did add that wire to the aristo igniter plug? And then did not cut but supposed to splice from that added wire into that black/yellow wire?
You have to disconnect the maf and then use the appropiate grounds and hot wire to check voltage going to it. The max voltage the maf reads is only 5v but usually only goes up to 3.7v at WOT, IIRC
1.6v during idle is about normal so your 1.9v is fine
2.5v is about cruising
I got that wire added from the igniter to black/yellow wire tap it in.....
I got 1.9V with just the ignition ON Only no engine running I think I read somewhere that it should be between 9v - 12v is suppose to be good....