brainsurge

Hi,
since i had some trouble with my rear wheel bearing and i could only find text, but no pictures, also no detailed infos, which tools and sizes were needed, i took it apart and took some pictures.
Required Tools
-Side Cutter or Pliers for removal of cotter pin
-32mm 12point deep socket for driveshaft
-Long breaker bar
-Wheel Bearing Toolkit with cups and acme thread
-Sockets (14, 17, 19, 22, extensions and whatever you need for the wheel bearing kit)
-Ratchet and short Extension to hold the rear of the acme thread
-10mm Hex Bit
-Jack and support Stands
-Screwdriver, Long needle nose pliers or circlip pliers to remove circlip
-Hammer

At first you need to loosen the driveshaft nut, so its your decision if you take the wheel off to remove the cotter pin and locking clip. Once that is removed, you can either put the Car in Park, set the e brake and loosen the 32mm Nut or have someone push the brake for you. If you haven't done yet, take the Wheel off. Then remove brake caliper and disc and attach the caliper to the coil spring.
Then get below the car and loosen the 10mm Hex Bolts that attach the cv shaft to the rear diff, either put the car in P and see how you get the best access or use an impact and have the car in neutral. You might have to remove the bracket next to the exhaust holder, to get the cv shaft out. 2*14mm Bolts.
Then try to remove the cv shaft on the inboard side from the differential, if it does not move, get the hammer out. Once that is out, push the inboard side over the differential in the corner, so that you can remove the outer joint from the knuckle. I used a puller to remove the hub from the knuckle, then cut off the inner race of the bearing.
I also removed the parking brake pads and springs, this is quite self explanatory but may not be needed. With the Pliers, remove the springs on top, remember how it all sits together and then push in the clips and give it a quarter turn to remove the fasteners from the pads and unhook the parking brake cable from the pads. Also inspect the clips and pads for wear and fatigue or corrosion. After 250t km and 17 years mine have lost a bit of material to corrosion, therefore i replaced it.
Now you can remove the circlip and set up your Wheel Bearing Tool to remove and install the bearing. i used a rubber hammer to straighten the new bearing during installation.

Then
-install circlip
-install cv shaft and nut (no torque yet)
-install bracket
-install parking brake if removed
-install hub
-install brake disc and caliper, have someone push the brake to torque down the cv nut to 290 NM
-install lock nut and cotter pin
-install wheel (you can also torque the cv nut with the transmission in P and the wheel on Ground

I hope that helps

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

as these are getting older and older this will come in handy to a lot of people. good job man