Just Crossed 200,000 Miles Question
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
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I just crossed 200,000 miles on 2nd Gen GS300 and was wondering if my oil changes should be more frequent now? I use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30. Works incredibly well, but later into the oil cycle I get a really minor oil leak. I'm talking 2-5 grain of rice sized drops after I drive and she gets warm, for the last 1,000 miles of the 5,000 mile oil change interval. Does this mean I need to change it sooner?
#2
Lexus Test Driver
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Theres no official mileage of when oil is supposed to be changed. The whole "every 3000 miles" was made by manufactures for people who are, well, lazy. Oil changes are so relative and cannot be given specific intervals to be changed. It all depends on the condition of the engine, driving habits etc. The best way to know when to change your oil is to check it frequently and change it when it begins to darken. It actually quite simple, but most people don't want to go through the trouble, so they go by vehicle manufactures' or oil manufactures' recommendations.
If you want an idea to limit drops, try upgrading to a 40 weight. I have major leaks in mine where I have to add a quart every week. I went to a 40 weight and it significantly dropped in frequency.
As for your apparent insinuation that the oil isn't doing its holding up towards the end of its claimed 5000 mile life span. IIRC, when the oil gets older, it actually stays thicker longer. If that memory is correct, then the oil's lifespan shouldn't be having an effect on when its leaking and rather, its the cause of your leak thats getting worse. Does that make sense?
If you want an idea to limit drops, try upgrading to a 40 weight. I have major leaks in mine where I have to add a quart every week. I went to a 40 weight and it significantly dropped in frequency.
As for your apparent insinuation that the oil isn't doing its holding up towards the end of its claimed 5000 mile life span. IIRC, when the oil gets older, it actually stays thicker longer. If that memory is correct, then the oil's lifespan shouldn't be having an effect on when its leaking and rather, its the cause of your leak thats getting worse. Does that make sense?
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joshua777 (08-06-18)
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
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Theres no official mileage of when oil is supposed to be changed. The whole "every 3000 miles" was made by manufactures for people who are, well, lazy. Oil changes are so relative and cannot be given specific intervals to be changed. It all depends on the condition of the engine, driving habits etc. The best way to know when to change your oil is to check it frequently and change it when it begins to darken. It actually quite simple, but most people don't want to go through the trouble, so they go by vehicle manufactures' or oil manufactures' recommendations.
If you want an idea to limit drops, try upgrading to a 40 weight. I have major leaks in mine where I have to add a quart every week. I went to a 40 weight and it significantly dropped in frequency.
As for your apparent insinuation that the oil isn't doing its holding up towards the end of its claimed 5000 mile life span. IIRC, when the oil gets older, it actually stays thicker longer. If that memory is correct, then the oil's lifespan shouldn't be having an effect on when its leaking and rather, its the cause of your leak thats getting worse. Does that make sense?
If you want an idea to limit drops, try upgrading to a 40 weight. I have major leaks in mine where I have to add a quart every week. I went to a 40 weight and it significantly dropped in frequency.
As for your apparent insinuation that the oil isn't doing its holding up towards the end of its claimed 5000 mile life span. IIRC, when the oil gets older, it actually stays thicker longer. If that memory is correct, then the oil's lifespan shouldn't be having an effect on when its leaking and rather, its the cause of your leak thats getting worse. Does that make sense?
#4
Lexus Test Driver
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I just crossed 200,000 miles on 2nd Gen GS300 and was wondering if my oil changes should be more frequent now? I use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30. Works incredibly well, but later into the oil cycle I get a really minor oil leak. I'm talking 2-5 grain of rice sized drops after I drive and she gets warm, for the last 1,000 miles of the 5,000 mile oil change interval. Does this mean I need to change it sooner?
#5
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Lexus recommends 5W30 for all temps or 10W30 for 0F and above. Run the thickest for your temp range I feel gives you better wear protection. Oil analysis proves the wear.
I run 25k to 28k miles on an oil change on my 98 2GS4. Oil analysis each time. (Amsoil 0W20, for 3 changes ranging from 25k to 30k, 27k on Amsoil HDD Series 3000 diesel oil, now Signature Series 5W30). 302k miles and the oil analysis shows good.
Last oil change on the HDD I ran 27k (18 months) and oil analysis didn't recommend changing yet. So this one I am running to 25k and doing oil analysis and see what the recommendation is.
Oh, and used 2 quarts of oil for 27k miles. Love my 2GS4! My car is 21 years old this month (manufactured in August 1997, early production model) and 302k miles. I bought with 138k and I have put a lot more miles on it than the 2 previous owners combined.
I run 25k to 28k miles on an oil change on my 98 2GS4. Oil analysis each time. (Amsoil 0W20, for 3 changes ranging from 25k to 30k, 27k on Amsoil HDD Series 3000 diesel oil, now Signature Series 5W30). 302k miles and the oil analysis shows good.
Last oil change on the HDD I ran 27k (18 months) and oil analysis didn't recommend changing yet. So this one I am running to 25k and doing oil analysis and see what the recommendation is.
Oh, and used 2 quarts of oil for 27k miles. Love my 2GS4! My car is 21 years old this month (manufactured in August 1997, early production model) and 302k miles. I bought with 138k and I have put a lot more miles on it than the 2 previous owners combined.
#7
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Its by far best car I have owned, and I have driven a lot to high miles, this one the highest and least hassles. Very few issues at all.
Keep the rear control arm #2 from seizing up, probably the worst job I had to do on it. Ended up cutting one side out pretty brutally. And its hard to get a ballpark alignment on it too. The bolt rusted to the center of the bushing in the arm preventing any adjustment at all.
I was looking at adapting the 3GS control arm #2 to it, but went with the 2GS arm. The 3GS arm isn't reliant on turning the bolt to adjust, it has an adjuster like a regular tie rod.
Keep the rear control arm #2 from seizing up, probably the worst job I had to do on it. Ended up cutting one side out pretty brutally. And its hard to get a ballpark alignment on it too. The bolt rusted to the center of the bushing in the arm preventing any adjustment at all.
I was looking at adapting the 3GS control arm #2 to it, but went with the 2GS arm. The 3GS arm isn't reliant on turning the bolt to adjust, it has an adjuster like a regular tie rod.
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#9
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I agree with tolerances, they are tigher than the UR series engines that require 0W20.
BUT, LEXUS says 10W30 >0F degrees. Its ok to run 10W30, but don't run it below 0F. Synthetics can likely get away with it, but dino oil, I wouldn't. Dino oil is a crap shoot anyway on what it really is.
BUT, LEXUS says 10W30 >0F degrees. Its ok to run 10W30, but don't run it below 0F. Synthetics can likely get away with it, but dino oil, I wouldn't. Dino oil is a crap shoot anyway on what it really is.
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