Coilovers Spring Rate Help! :)
09-09-18, 07:39 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Coilovers Spring Rate Help! :)
Hey all,
I was in the market for some coilovers and I can’t across some cx racing with 16/12k spring rate.
I want a smooth ride with really good handling and I was wondering if these coilovers would be too stiff?
I tend to drive to New York from North Carolina often...which is about a 12 hour drive and I want something that’s still comfortable with increased handling. I would like to go low...but not tucking tire low. A decent drop. Would these be worth it?
Thank you guys for your help,
huss
I was in the market for some coilovers and I can’t across some cx racing with 16/12k spring rate.
I want a smooth ride with really good handling and I was wondering if these coilovers would be too stiff?
I tend to drive to New York from North Carolina often...which is about a 12 hour drive and I want something that’s still comfortable with increased handling. I would like to go low...but not tucking tire low. A decent drop. Would these be worth it?
Thank you guys for your help,
huss
09-09-18, 09:26 PM
#2
got dang! Thats gonna be like sitting on a rod with no strut or spring LoL Get something closer to like 4k front and 6k rear. Still be stiff, but soft enough to not bottom out on a dip or bump. Want smooth, do like 2 in the front and 4 in the rear
I have a 350z (think sports car) and IIRC the stock is 6 and 8, stiff as hell!
I have a 350z (think sports car) and IIRC the stock is 6 and 8, stiff as hell!
09-10-18, 02:39 PM
#4
I don't think he could even find coilovers with 6/4k spring rates. Maybe some Tanabe lowering springs or something are that soft. The lowest I recalled seeing was 8/6 or 7/5 (maybe the Tein CS) but that was many years ago when I was shopping for coilovers. I ended up getting Megan EZ's and those are 10K FRONT /8K REAR. My advice would be to get the Megans. I use them primarily for highway driving and they ride is pretty smooth. That's with pretty stretched tires (255/35 on a 19x11) and camber so if you aren't into those things the ride should be even better. Before you bring up NYC roads, Louisiana roads are some of the worst in the country so when I tell you the Megan's ride good, it's applicable to NYC. Some dudes are going to tell you how well high spring rates can ride if valved properly but there's no reason to go down that road if you're not super slammed. If you did go down that road, CX Racing wouldn't really be the brand to chose for high spring rate applications, they're a budget brand.
Last edited by tiger4life; 09-10-18 at 02:54 PM.
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firelizard (09-10-18)
09-10-18, 02:51 PM
#5
- Also if your car has old struts, that can affect the ride.
- It's a sports car, the valving Nissan chose, tires, weight distribution, everything affects the harshness of the ride, no way to compare the two cars in this instance.
09-10-18, 04:24 PM
#6
Moderator
The spring rates will be fine as long as you set the preload for the type of ride quality you want. If you want to slam the car and still have a soft ride that will not happen. But, if you want to close some wheel gap and have a firmer ride with better handling they will be fine. It all depend on how you set them up. We readjusted a set for a friend that had them installed and the ride was floaty.....old Caddy like. Once we reset the preload and set the ride height properly the cars rides extremely well and is planted in the corners.
09-10-18, 04:34 PM
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hey all,
thanks for everyones feedback.
In that case...would it be fine if I ran the 16/12k setup? I just really don’t wanna mess up cause I don’t want to end up gettin some where I can feel every dang bump.
But that’s were dampening comes into play. Correct? If they’re real hard and stif...just turn the dial on the top hat and boom. They’re adjusted...right?
I’ve tried to search for videos of people driving on 16/12k and I saw a video with 20k and tha honestely scared me lmao. Just for these New York trips where I’m driving 12+ hours nonstop, I don’t wanna break my back and destroy my body hahaha.
A lttle more help from you guys and I will decide whether or not I should scoop these cx racing Coilovers up from this guy.
Btw, the cx racing is rebuidable. Right?
Thanks for your guys help,
huss
thanks for everyones feedback.
In that case...would it be fine if I ran the 16/12k setup? I just really don’t wanna mess up cause I don’t want to end up gettin some where I can feel every dang bump.
But that’s were dampening comes into play. Correct? If they’re real hard and stif...just turn the dial on the top hat and boom. They’re adjusted...right?
I’ve tried to search for videos of people driving on 16/12k and I saw a video with 20k and tha honestely scared me lmao. Just for these New York trips where I’m driving 12+ hours nonstop, I don’t wanna break my back and destroy my body hahaha.
A lttle more help from you guys and I will decide whether or not I should scoop these cx racing Coilovers up from this guy.
Btw, the cx racing is rebuidable. Right?
Thanks for your guys help,
huss
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09-10-18, 04:37 PM
#8
@OP: GS430 spec Tanabe DF210 (6.9F/5.5R) and Bilsteins and RCAs, problem solved. Or if you want lower, BC Racing ships with 10/8 by default and it's a nice affordable setup.
16/12 is very stiff, it is not at all a comfort oriented setup. Whether this is acceptable to you depends on your personal threshold for discomfort, but it's definitely overkill for a mildly dropped commuter. CX Racing is a super cheap brand of coilover, I automatically distrust cheap dampers paired with stiff springs. A note on adjusting damping: you can't soften your setup softer than your spring rate by reducing damping. On a cheap adjustable coilover like the CX or the basic BC, you can adjust bound and rebound together to control the motion but it will not soften a stiff spring. At "full soft", a good damper and spring combination will still control body motion at an acceptable level- no bouncing, and get stiffer/less reactive from there.
Last edited by firelizard; 09-10-18 at 04:44 PM.
09-10-18, 04:44 PM
#9
Rookie
Thread Starter
This is ****ing terrible advice. They asked for good handling, not an unbalanced pile of mush. Way too soft for a lowered car, and the front needs to be stiffer than the rear almost always.
@OP: GS430 spec Tanabe DF210 (6.9F/5.5R) and Bilsteins and RCAs, problem solved. Or if you want lower, BC Racing ships with 10/8 by default and it's a nice affordable setup.
16/12 is very stiff, it is not at all a comfort oriented setup. Whether this is acceptable to you depends on your personal threshold for discomfort, but it's definitely overkill for a mildly dropped commuter. CX Racing is a super cheap brand of coilover, I automatically distrust cheap dampers paired with stiff springs.
@OP: GS430 spec Tanabe DF210 (6.9F/5.5R) and Bilsteins and RCAs, problem solved. Or if you want lower, BC Racing ships with 10/8 by default and it's a nice affordable setup.
16/12 is very stiff, it is not at all a comfort oriented setup. Whether this is acceptable to you depends on your personal threshold for discomfort, but it's definitely overkill for a mildly dropped commuter. CX Racing is a super cheap brand of coilover, I automatically distrust cheap dampers paired with stiff springs.
Haha I saw the post further up regarding the super soft springs and thought to myself, whattttt? Lol appreciate the feedback from that first poster tho nonetheless.
And I was going to do the spring/ shock setup but thought that it’ll b too soft. What do u think, firelizard? My main goal is to get rid of the horrendous 16” gap but I also want superb handling. I heard that the coilovers would give you that rather than springs
Honestely think I’m gonna skip over these cx racing and go with Megan racing or tein...unless u convince me otherwise to get some springs. 🤔
haha thanks again man,
huss
09-10-18, 04:54 PM
#10
I guess the first thing to clarify is that there is literally no difference between ordering struts and springs seperately, and ordering a coilover kit except that the coilovers are pre-assembled and have adjustable spring perches (and sometimes lower mounts).
If you want to reduce the wheel gap to nil, you'll need to buy a coilover kit that is designed to lower the car to that point, so yes that would exclude most off-the-shelf spring/strut combinations.
Personally, I'm running Tanabe DF210 springs on stock spec struts and mild TRD sway bars and the comfort/handling ratio is where I like it. I purchased 17mm front RCA to reduce the wheel gap without losing more suspension travel. For context, it's because this was my daily driver, I'm old, and I wanted something comparable to a newer sports saloon, not my old Miata. If I had intended to lower the car more, or do some racing, I'd have gone stiffer, and installed better dampers.
If you want superb handling, this is not the car for you. But better handling is easy. Given your needs, a basic entry-level quality coilover kit like BC or the Megans the other guy suggested are probably the right call. 10/8 is mild enough to not be jarring, and it will keep the rolling around in check a little. I would still advise upgrading your anti-roll bars and bushings as well, not all stiffness should come from just the springs.
If you want to reduce the wheel gap to nil, you'll need to buy a coilover kit that is designed to lower the car to that point, so yes that would exclude most off-the-shelf spring/strut combinations.
Personally, I'm running Tanabe DF210 springs on stock spec struts and mild TRD sway bars and the comfort/handling ratio is where I like it. I purchased 17mm front RCA to reduce the wheel gap without losing more suspension travel. For context, it's because this was my daily driver, I'm old, and I wanted something comparable to a newer sports saloon, not my old Miata. If I had intended to lower the car more, or do some racing, I'd have gone stiffer, and installed better dampers.
If you want superb handling, this is not the car for you. But better handling is easy. Given your needs, a basic entry-level quality coilover kit like BC or the Megans the other guy suggested are probably the right call. 10/8 is mild enough to not be jarring, and it will keep the rolling around in check a little. I would still advise upgrading your anti-roll bars and bushings as well, not all stiffness should come from just the springs.
09-10-18, 07:10 PM
#11
Rookie
Thread Starter
I guess the first thing to clarify is that there is literally no difference between ordering struts and springs seperately, and ordering a coilover kit except that the coilovers are pre-assembled and have adjustable spring perches (and sometimes lower mounts).
If you want to reduce the wheel gap to nil, you'll need to buy a coilover kit that is designed to lower the car to that point, so yes that would exclude most off-the-shelf spring/strut combinations.
Personally, I'm running Tanabe DF210 springs on stock spec struts and mild TRD sway bars and the comfort/handling ratio is where I like it. I purchased 17mm front RCA to reduce the wheel gap without losing more suspension travel. For context, it's because this was my daily driver, I'm old, and I wanted something comparable to a newer sports saloon, not my old Miata. If I had intended to lower the car more, or do some racing, I'd have gone stiffer, and installed better dampers.
If you want superb handling, this is not the car for you. But better handling is easy. Given your needs, a basic entry-level quality coilover kit like BC or the Megans the other guy suggested are probably the right call. 10/8 is mild enough to not be jarring, and it will keep the rolling around in check a little. I would still advise upgrading your anti-roll bars and bushings as well, not all stiffness should come from just the springs.
If you want to reduce the wheel gap to nil, you'll need to buy a coilover kit that is designed to lower the car to that point, so yes that would exclude most off-the-shelf spring/strut combinations.
Personally, I'm running Tanabe DF210 springs on stock spec struts and mild TRD sway bars and the comfort/handling ratio is where I like it. I purchased 17mm front RCA to reduce the wheel gap without losing more suspension travel. For context, it's because this was my daily driver, I'm old, and I wanted something comparable to a newer sports saloon, not my old Miata. If I had intended to lower the car more, or do some racing, I'd have gone stiffer, and installed better dampers.
If you want superb handling, this is not the car for you. But better handling is easy. Given your needs, a basic entry-level quality coilover kit like BC or the Megans the other guy suggested are probably the right call. 10/8 is mild enough to not be jarring, and it will keep the rolling around in check a little. I would still advise upgrading your anti-roll bars and bushings as well, not all stiffness should come from just the springs.
...you know what would really sell me on springs? a picture of your car.
regards,
huss
My bad folx, thats what happens when you drink and try to give advice, there was more to the story and apparently I gave none of it...
and firelizard, no need to get all explicit about it. Not to mention, you still agreed about his find being too stiff... also, your whole comment about "they asked for good handling, not an unbalanced pile of mush" statement.. You contradict yourself because you cant have both, only a good balance of the 2, but still have to choose one or the other. I'll still take fault for focusing more on comfort rather than handling. Lest not forget he asked for handling AND comfort... My statement still stands. Maybe not for a lowered car, but for spring rate in general (which I believe his tread title was directed for) Forgive me for focusing on the title and nothing else...
btw to the above comment about weight. Its a roadster and IS 3600lbs...
and firelizard, no need to get all explicit about it. Not to mention, you still agreed about his find being too stiff... also, your whole comment about "they asked for good handling, not an unbalanced pile of mush" statement.. You contradict yourself because you cant have both, only a good balance of the 2, but still have to choose one or the other. I'll still take fault for focusing more on comfort rather than handling. Lest not forget he asked for handling AND comfort... My statement still stands. Maybe not for a lowered car, but for spring rate in general (which I believe his tread title was directed for) Forgive me for focusing on the title and nothing else...
btw to the above comment about weight. Its a roadster and IS 3600lbs...
ya now that I realize it...I think I'm maybe asking for too much with the handling and comfort. I may just get a se of springs and call it a day tho if fire lizard posts pictures of his car, that is.
regards,
huss
09-10-18, 09:48 PM
#12
I have just the thing: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ml#post9397160
Please forgive the quality, I don't photograph my car often but I think this gives you a reasonable idea of what -2.0"F and-1.6"R looks like on an utterly stock car with slightly larger wheels.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post9516918
I think we can all agree the front looks a bit high, hence the -17mm RCA from FIGS Engineering.
I think to go lower than this, for practical reasons, a stiffer coilover setup than what I have is a good idea.
Please forgive the quality, I don't photograph my car often but I think this gives you a reasonable idea of what -2.0"F and-1.6"R looks like on an utterly stock car with slightly larger wheels.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ml#post9516918
I think we can all agree the front looks a bit high, hence the -17mm RCA from FIGS Engineering.
I think to go lower than this, for practical reasons, a stiffer coilover setup than what I have is a good idea.
09-11-18, 04:45 PM
#13
I'm after the same thing as you with regards to improving handling and lowering without killing ride comfort, except I'm probably looking to go a little lower. Right now all I have done is front and rear RCAs. 30mm (~1.2in) front, 25mm (~1in) rear. I can PM you pics on stock 16s and IS250 18s if you want to see the difference. It certainly helped the stock 4x4 height but I want to go lower. The plan (for right now, at least) is to go with BC Racing BR coilovers with 12k/10k spring rates. From what I gathered, this is a good compromise between handling and comfort and the height/wheel combo I want to go with. Not trying to go Stance Nation low, but I want to maybe tuck a little tire on 19s and NJ roads.
I considered going the cheap route on coils, but decided against it. I feel like the added adjustability, reliability, and good reputation you get with the BCs is worth the extra few hundred bucks. I think it's safe to say the BCs are tried and true, and for me, that peace of mind is worth it.
For you, RCAs and some quality lowering springs/shocks might be the way to go according to your needs, wants and budget. Unfortunately, I don't know what's out there for our cars as I've always been set on coilovers.
IMO, 16k/12k is way too stiff and anything under 10k/8k is too soft.
Good luck with your search.
I considered going the cheap route on coils, but decided against it. I feel like the added adjustability, reliability, and good reputation you get with the BCs is worth the extra few hundred bucks. I think it's safe to say the BCs are tried and true, and for me, that peace of mind is worth it.
For you, RCAs and some quality lowering springs/shocks might be the way to go according to your needs, wants and budget. Unfortunately, I don't know what's out there for our cars as I've always been set on coilovers.
IMO, 16k/12k is way too stiff and anything under 10k/8k is too soft.
Good luck with your search.
04-29-22, 07:56 PM
#15
Interesting thread...So I have a 04 gs300 and I'm going to put some Tein Flex Z coilovers on it. I didn't know when I ordered them that the spring rate was 12k-fr 10k-r. I'm not the smartest guy in the world but based on simple math that's pretty stiff for daily use. I would've preferred something 8k-fr 6k-r or 10k-fr 8k-r. With all that said I've also learned that DAMPENING means everything! So I went to a local shop and believe it or not someone had the same model GS300 with the same Tein Flex Z's and the ride was awesome!!! He literally altered his setup a few times within a 3 hour period to show me how dampening, ride height, human weight, wheel travel etc works. All in the name of being a good person, and of course my business lol.