Car Vibration (Dont Think Its Suspension Related)
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Car Vibration (Dont Think Its Suspension Related)
Looking for some suggestions as to why my car vibrates over 70mph, all front end parts have been replaced, tires balanced over and over and alignment done! the steering does not shake and is very steady, now at high speeds the whole car vibrates. vibration can be felt in the seat as well as everything else in the car vibrates. and it is a intermittent vibration, sometimes it can be felt more than others and i know its not the wheels because this is the 3rd set of wheels I put on the car and it does the samething, what could it be ? looking for suggestions. I did research but most people are talking about suspension stuff which i already eliminated that.
#2
Lexus Test Driver
Looking for some suggestions as to why my car vibrates over 70mph, all front end parts have been replaced, tires balanced over and over and alignment done! the steering does not shake and is very steady, now at high speeds the whole car vibrates. vibration can be felt in the seat as well as everything else in the car vibrates. and it is a intermittent vibration, sometimes it can be felt more than others and i know its not the wheels because this is the 3rd set of wheels I put on the car and it does the samething, what could it be ? looking for suggestions. I did research but most people are talking about suspension stuff which i already eliminated that.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
#4
These cars are very prone to tire balancing issues. Regular tire balance does nothing to solve the shaking. It requires a road force balance that only some shops can perform. I believe it is called a Hunter road force machine. Toyota and Lexus dealers can perform this. Car is also sensitive to tire/rim combinations. I originally had cheap Tiger Paws on stock 16s on my 99 GS300 and the shake would always come back. Next set I went to Pirelli P Zeros and they are smooth as silk with road force balance and shake hasn't returned for over 20K miles. I've never owned a car that is as sensitive to tire balance, alignment etc.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-at-65mph.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-at-65mph.html
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Quick check before going under the vehicle.
Drive at speed where the issue exists.
Pedal off the throttle and put in neutral.
See if the vibration is still there.
I agree on road forcing problematic tires.
Did you have this problem before replacing your current set of tires?
Drive at speed where the issue exists.
Pedal off the throttle and put in neutral.
See if the vibration is still there.
I agree on road forcing problematic tires.
Did you have this problem before replacing your current set of tires?
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Usually it's a combination of tire balance and/or brake rotors...although I did have a bent rim once. Have you had your rotors changed recently? Believe it or not I've tried everything and a slight vibration is still there. But new rotors helped the most.
The following users liked this post:
LexGuyMark (02-17-19)
#7
These cars are very prone to tire balancing issues. Regular tire balance does nothing to solve the shaking. It requires a road force balance that only some shops can perform. I believe it is called a Hunter road force machine. Toyota and Lexus dealers can perform this. Car is also sensitive to tire/rim combinations. I originally had cheap Tiger Paws on stock 16s on my 99 GS300 and the shake would always come back. Next set I went to Pirelli P Zeros and they are smooth as silk with road force balance and shake hasn't returned for over 20K miles. I've never owned a car that is as sensitive to tire balance, alignment etc.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-at-65mph.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-at-65mph.html
I agree, it could be balancing issue. You need a place that really know how to balance wheels. My suspensions bushings are going to hell and I'm on air. Been to many shops for a balance and my car would still shake until I found a guy who knows how to balance my 19x11.5 and now I have 0 shake. Note: If your steering wheel is shaking it's your front. If your seats are shaking it's your rear.
Trending Topics
#8
Driver School Candidate
Hub-Centric Rings
Hub-Centric Rings is what you’ll need. If you have aftermarket wheels you’re going to need hubcentric rings for Sure. First to determine the thickness that you need measure or find out the exact inner diameter of the hub bore on the wheel that you are using. Next look up the exact outer diameter of the hub for your car. Compare the two measurements and whatever the difference is, even if it’s only half a millimeter like the thickness of a soda can That’s the size of hub centric rings you need. All four wheels should be equipped with a ring. Be patient and use some anti-seize grease to help ease installation because typically these rings are thin and easily damaged which would defeat the purpose. Just make sure that they are centered and slide on straight. Lastly, make sure you’re using the Correct shape lug nuts , example: acorn, round acorn, cone shaped, etc. that just depends on your specific wheel model. You’d probably have to contact the wheel manufacturer for all the specs. I did this on several vehicles and it worked EVERY time.
The following 2 users liked this post by Boycetech:
aristomkii (02-04-19),
n1sm0 (12-01-19)
#9
Id suspect the drive shaft center support bearing from what you are mentioning. They are easy to overlook because the exhaust and heat shield cover it. If you can when the vehicle is cool enough, grab as close to the center of the drive shaft as you can and push up and down. The shaft should not move a crazy amount. If you can make it move quite bit and even feel/hear clunking from the carrier bearing, you will need to pull the drive shaft and replace the center support.
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Quick check before going under the vehicle.
Drive at speed where the issue exists.
Pedal off the throttle and put in neutral.
See if the vibration is still there.
I agree on road forcing problematic tires.
Did you have this problem before replacing your current set of tires?
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hub-Centric Rings is what you’ll need. If you have aftermarket wheels you’re going to need hubcentric rings for Sure. First to determine the thickness that you need measure or find out the exact inner diameter of the hub bore on the wheel that you are using. Next look up the exact outer diameter of the hub for your car. Compare the two measurements and whatever the difference is, even if it’s only half a millimeter like the thickness of a soda can That’s the size of hub centric rings you need. All four wheels should be equipped with a ring. Be patient and use some anti-seize grease to help ease installation because typically these rings are thin and easily damaged which would defeat the purpose. Just make sure that they are centered and slide on straight. Lastly, make sure you’re using the Correct shape lug nuts , example: acorn, round acorn, cone shaped, etc. that just depends on your specific wheel model. You’d probably have to contact the wheel manufacturer for all the specs. I did this on several vehicles and it worked EVERY time.
Id suspect the drive shaft center support bearing from what you are mentioning. They are easy to overlook because the exhaust and heat shield cover it. If you can when the vehicle is cool enough, grab as close to the center of the drive shaft as you can and push up and down. The shaft should not move a crazy amount. If you can make it move quite bit and even feel/hear clunking from the carrier bearing, you will need to pull the drive shaft and replace the center support.
Thanks for yur suggestion man, i did all 4 rotors this past summer in august, but i think the fronts are already warped, so i will get that done again, and i am also starting to think it might just be the whole steering rack
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
70mph + Shimmy Solved
Okay so I think I figured out where this body shimmy was coming from, someone mentioned brake rotors and I checked those since it wouldnt cost a thing, before I took off the wheels and brakes I spun the front wheel and rear wheels and realized the wheel was not spinning freely , so I took the brakes apart and remembered that when I last did my brake job I did not install the 2 pins that pushed the pads from the rotor ! I did that to both fronts and checked rear to ensure pins were installed , took it ti the highway got up to 100mph no more intermittent body shimmy . Thanks for all the suggestions ! The pic below shows the 4 pins I am talking about !
#13
Was going to say... brakes. We had the same issue... replaced the front rotors, pads, pad-hardware, and the left caliper (1 of 2 pistons was siezed). It had a violent left/right shimmy, only random, coming to a complete stop would kinda fix it. Now smooth as butter.
For steering wheel shake, up/down is usually struts, left/right is usually brakes.
For steering wheel shake, up/down is usually struts, left/right is usually brakes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SCWells72
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
232
12-31-23 10:09 AM
platoribs
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
2
09-04-18 11:08 AM