Vibration only when shifted to drive
03-29-19, 02:45 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: TX
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vibration only when shifted to drive
I have an issue, I have a gs430 2001, and it runs great and no issues besides it vibrating when I put it in drive. If I put it in reverse or park it stops, as soon as I put it in drive the car vibrates, almost as if someone with alot of bass was parked next to me. What should I check? Motor mounts? Thanks in advance.
03-30-19, 05:37 AM
#4
Very common, motor mount issue. Its the engine mounts that are hydraulic and meant to absorb the vibration. It wouldn't hurt to do your trans mount too probably by age/miles, but its the engine mounts causing the vibrations, not the trans mount. Make sure you purchase hydraulic mounts if you want a quality repair. The price difference isn't much. The fluid filled hydraulic is OEM. I went with the DEA hydraulic ones from RockAuto. Mounts are an easy product to get scammed on on ebay. You cant see a difference when looking at them. I'd buy a name brand from a reputable source.
I did mine recently and I assure you, its not an easy job. Not only does the engine have to be raise up until the transmission is against the tunnel and cannot move any more, but the sub-frame has to be dropped down as well and pried down past where it wants to hang to get the mounts out. The oil filter must be removed as it is over the drivers side mount nut. And theoretically, you must align the vehicle after moving a sub-frame. I just did this job at my shop on a lift with pole jacks and everything as ideal as you could ask for. Absolute mother .. of a job. On the drivers side, if you wanted to remove the mounts bracket, you'd have to pull the engine oil filter "housing" which I was not prepared for with a new gasket, so I did not pull it. And on the passengers side, the bracket is covered by the exhaust. So I left both brackets in place and had no choice but to get the engine and sub-frame far enough away from each other to get the mounts out/in. Just some info for those considering doing this.
I did mine recently and I assure you, its not an easy job. Not only does the engine have to be raise up until the transmission is against the tunnel and cannot move any more, but the sub-frame has to be dropped down as well and pried down past where it wants to hang to get the mounts out. The oil filter must be removed as it is over the drivers side mount nut. And theoretically, you must align the vehicle after moving a sub-frame. I just did this job at my shop on a lift with pole jacks and everything as ideal as you could ask for. Absolute mother .. of a job. On the drivers side, if you wanted to remove the mounts bracket, you'd have to pull the engine oil filter "housing" which I was not prepared for with a new gasket, so I did not pull it. And on the passengers side, the bracket is covered by the exhaust. So I left both brackets in place and had no choice but to get the engine and sub-frame far enough away from each other to get the mounts out/in. Just some info for those considering doing this.
03-30-19, 05:40 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: TX
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very common, motor mount issue. Its the engine mounts that are hydraulic and meant to absorb the vibration. It wouldn't hurt to do your trans mount too probably by age/miles, but its the engine mounts causing the vibrations, not the trans mount. Make sure you purchase hydraulic mounts if you want a quality repair. The price difference isn't much. The fluid filled hydraulic is OEM. I went with the DEA hydraulic ones from RockAuto. Mounts are an easy product to get scammed on on ebay. You cant see a difference when looking at them. I'd buy a name brand from a reputable source.
I did mine recently and I assure you, its not an easy job. Not only does the engine have to be raise up until the transmission is against the tunnel and cannot move any more, but the sub-frame has to be dropped down as well and pried down past where it wants to hang to get the mounts out. The oil filter must be removed as it is over the drivers side mount nut. And theoretically, you must align the vehicle after moving a sub-frame. I just did this job at my shop on a lift with pole jacks and everything as ideal as you could ask for. Absolute mother .. of a job. On the drivers side, if you wanted to remove the mounts bracket, you'd have to pull the engine oil filter "housing" which I was not prepared for with a new gasket, so I did not pull it. And on the passengers side, the bracket is covered by the exhaust. So I left both brackets in place and had no choice but to get the engine and sub-frame far enough away from each other to get the mounts out/in. Just some info for those considering doing this.
I did mine recently and I assure you, its not an easy job. Not only does the engine have to be raise up until the transmission is against the tunnel and cannot move any more, but the sub-frame has to be dropped down as well and pried down past where it wants to hang to get the mounts out. The oil filter must be removed as it is over the drivers side mount nut. And theoretically, you must align the vehicle after moving a sub-frame. I just did this job at my shop on a lift with pole jacks and everything as ideal as you could ask for. Absolute mother .. of a job. On the drivers side, if you wanted to remove the mounts bracket, you'd have to pull the engine oil filter "housing" which I was not prepared for with a new gasket, so I did not pull it. And on the passengers side, the bracket is covered by the exhaust. So I left both brackets in place and had no choice but to get the engine and sub-frame far enough away from each other to get the mounts out/in. Just some info for those considering doing this.
03-30-19, 10:14 AM
#6
That's the problem since the early 2000 model vehicles... they assemble the engine on the frame/cross-member, then install the entire engine/frame/suspension as a unit... yet no one thinks about long-term (20-30yr) maintenance. GM is awful, Toyota is darned good, yet I'm surprised Lexus didn't figure out a way to do this, without this much of a mess.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post