Flyinhawk

Hello club Lexus,

below is is what I’ve researched and done in order to make a 1998 Toyota Avalon brake booster work in my 2000 Lexus gs300. I’ve included a link to the original post that I got the idea from. This did not work for my car when it’s was in stock form with an immobalizer. However it did work when the aristo swap was done since the immobalizer was non existent(if it’s does work with immobalizer please explain how you did it). I have merely gone through that list and found ways to make it easier to follow while adding some things I delt with. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...-master-2.html
Brake booster swap revised list


Disclaimer: this is what I did for my car. Not every car is 100% the same and not all materials are the same. When modding a system, there is room for error. I do not take responsibility for anything that breakes or goes wrong. I followed a thread on clublexus and it was well documented. I have revised the list and found what I believe to be a slightly more attainable way to do it. Best of luck!



What you’ll need. Some are attainable in junkyards but new parts are suggested if money isn’t an issue.

1998 Toyota Avalon brake booster

1998 Toyota Avalon master cylinder(and reservoir)(PLEASE buy a new one)

01-05 Lexus is300 booster vacuum line nipple and banjo bolt (attaches to intake)

M10x1.25 extender nut

M10x1.25 stud(or cut a bolt) that is 1.9cm(0.75inch)

Two brake tees from any Toyota Corolla from 03 or older

Wilwood proportion valve w/ M10x1.0 BF inlet

M10 thread brake lines (get 8” pieces or 10”)

Tubing bender tool($5)


Screw the booster nut down so it is touching the rubber grommet on the booster. Then screw the extender nut onto the shaft. Turn the nut and extender till they are tight to one another. From there, cut the stud(or bolt) down to 1 and 1/4 inches. Now screw the stud(bolt) into the extender. Once this is done, screw the pedal connection fork on and ensure that your travel is correct and not putting pressure on the booster (brakes will drag).

This was what I did for my car,

remove the listed fuse and relays along with buzzer, leave abs ecu in place(it controls cluster)

- remove 3 relays next to the brake booster(pink,blue,green)

- unplug buzzer next to ecu under dash(little black box with single wire)

- leave abs NO.I installed (yellow rectangle 60A)

- remove abs NO.2 (grey rectangle)

2. remove stock unit

-unplug all harnesses to the unit

- remove bolt betwen pedal and booster

- remove 4 bolts under dash at pedal assembly

- remove 2 front lines from unit

- remove 2 rear lines from unit

carefully remove the whiole unit

3. install new booster/master

- install booster alone with gasket and nuts.

- install master cyl with gasket and tighten

- measure distance and make a spaces to thread on booster to attach to pedal

4. new lines

- cut, then crimp the lines inverted double flare the old lines to size and length

OR get stainless lines made

- put the 2 rears into a Tee and then to willwood prop valve OUT

- put the wilwood IN to the master furthest away from the firewall

- put the front lines into a Tee and then to the master closest to firewall

- bleed the lines and follow wilwoods instructions to set and test and dial in the prop valve. BE CAREFUL AND UNDERSTAND HOW IT WORKS BEFORE YOU GO ADJUSTING IT.

JORDANSLEXUS

My car is stock is there a way to not have immobilizer problems if I do the brake swap or no