Picked up a 98 gs300 to be a daily on a pretty cheap price, didn't run, but cranked. They had a receipt for a new ECU a couple years ago and brand new tires, and i got it for the price of the engine if you are looking at them on car-part.

Searching gave me lots of results, and i've found nothing that i'm looking for on the google

188k Miles, drug it home, ohm tested the pedal sensor, tps and throttle motor, it was a little colder out than the recommended temp but everything was pretty close. Plugged it all back, reset the TPS and the car fired up, and ran great. Drove it around a bit, got about 20 minutes on it, and you get zero throttle response until WOT. Can fire it up cold, have it start and drive fine, until it warms up. Should i recheck the pedal sensor and the throttle motor once they hit Operating temp or is there another cause i should look at.

a couple pics qp damage is a bummer, but oh well. https://imgur.com/a/etJ8XCN

 

Have you checked for codes? I’d look there first. It does seem throttle related. Have you cleaned it out? It sounds like it goes into limp mode after driving for a while.

 

Right around 200k I started having throttle issues and it was my fuel pump starting to go out. Most of the time it would run fine but as I got to 1/2 tank it started having issues. Have the fuel pressure checked.

 

I'll double check the codes but there wasnt anything pertaining to the throttle or so i thought. Cant recall offhand. One was for the MAF because i unplugged it to try and trick limp mode and see if it ran right after I got it.

what's the proper cleaning procedure?

I'll double check fuel pressure. I have a tester but I'm out of town till the weekend.

 

Just thought of something else. You mentioned it starts to have issues once it's warmed up, and that could point to a vacuum leak. If you can post the code when you can that will tell us more.

 

Yea having issues once it hits open?/closed? Loop whatever it is when its out of warmup stage. Wouldn't a vacuum leak still cause problems before that?

 

Not necessarily. I have a '99 GS400 and when I had a vacuum leak it would drive fine for the first 20-30 minutes of my drive. Then, all of a sudden, it would stall at stoplights or sudden stops. It went on like that for a few months because there were no codes. Finally I dropped it off at the dealer and they confirmed the leak. You can do a smoke test and that will tell you as well.

The code will tell you more though so it's important to read it again when you have a chance. If you see a P1349 that's your OCV, P0440 is vacuum leak, etc. That way you're not replacing parts that don't have anything to do with the problem.

 

So no response till on the floor means the cable is working but the accel psn sensor is not.
i believe.
U checked it with ohmeter but it is a full range device like a volume **** so the partial open positions should also be part of the checks.
Remember it is an intermittent issue so ohmetrr may not pick up.

But sirely u should get two codes..i think 1120 and 1121.
This device is known to cold solder so circuit may make and break.
youtube has a fix .
Let us know the final fix but i guess when it happens again, check codes.
It stores.

This thing is essetially a variable rheostat with a lottle tab to move the throtyle blade at the end of its arc if the blade motor does not get its voltage throttle will not work.
i may be barking up the wrong tree but that last 10% pedal for resp is a telltale to me.