HideTheSun

I've always been able to tinker with automobiles, no problem remove and replace. I'm afraid I'm quite limited in electrical aspects, mainly high output alternators on the gs platform. I've noticed there is a 120 amp fuse for the alternator, and lack of a traditional big 3 setup with power going into a fuse bank. I'm starting to get into the heavier side of car audio and know at some point one agm might not cut it. I was warned a high output alt would make my gs potentially very upset. There is also no straight shot from the alt to battery, how would one upgrade the big three? I've seen little to no discussion on the forums about this, would appreciate the help. TIA

dwoods801

Don’t over think it, it’s same as all Big3 upgrades. Leave the factory wires in place and just run a 2 or 4 gauge wire from the positive terminal to the main power pole on the alternator, it’s the bolt sticking out of the back of the alternator. Then run a similar wire from the negative terminal to a convenient bracket on the alternator. That factory ground has a ring terminal halfway to the alternator where it’s bolted to the chassis. U could do something similar, or just run another wire from the negative terminal to a goo spot on the chassis. For extra credit u could then run another wire from the chassis to engine block but the ground u ran to the alternator should cover that. I would recommend inspecting all the factory battery cables for corrosion, and replace any that aren’t nice clean wires still.

TrueGS300

The wires are important for sure, and what dwoods said should be done. My understanding is that the "big three" are the: Battery to chassis ground, Chassis to engine ground, and the positive terminal to alternator. These three will allow for use of heavy electrical loads like aftermarket lighting and stereo equipment. But I did read a thread on here about how the battery and alternator can be upgraded too putting out a safe but greater or more stable system voltage. Like a year range of the Tundra alternator or something like that fits with just a little trimming, and a higher cca and reserve capacity battery can be used. These make for a powerful electrical system. Gets rid of light flicker, better music sound in large subbed systems etc. but also supports large fuel pumps and ignition systems for those with high power goals. In which case a thicker wire and relayed setup is used directly to the pump to give it maximum voltage too. Lots of electrical upgrades can be done.

dwoods801

“Stable voltage system?” You’ll have to explain that to me? Not sure if spell check butchered your words?
The Tundra/Sequoia alternator swap is usually just done when u are replacing a bad alternator and want a few more amps without spending a lot. It sounds like he is prepared to invest in a high output aftermarket alternator and possibly a second battery.
I picked up a 240 amp “hairpin stator” style alternator for only $180 through eBay. Which is a competitive price compared to new or rebuilt factory alternators. I haven’t noticed any negative effects from the high output alternator, and it puts out almost 3X the power of the O.E. 85 amp alternator. I got a 1 year warranty and my stereo system is noticeable louder.
Another option on eBay is a 200amp model for $148. These HO options all produce max power just a little over idle. If there is a downside, I haven’t found it? I installed a 250 amp circuit breaker between the alternator and battery, to protect against any malfunction in the voltage regulator or something. But I am very happy with the HO alternator. And for less than $200 for the alternator and Big 3, it’s a worthwhile upgrade for any car enthusiast.

naluloa

is your HO alternator running still? People say not to trust the HO alternators, more than the normal “oem only” cautions. I bought a GS430 alternator (130A) rated, only because I didn’t want a HO one to leave me stranded in 3 years.

dwoods801

I haven’t had any problems with mine, when I was shopping for mine, I noticed a huge spread on the prices different companies charge for their product. Chinese options were less than a remanufactured Denso, or a Mechman costs $450. I think the cheaper ones probably don’t have the longest lifespan. A great option for a higher output amp, that’s affordable and still has OE quality would be sourcing a 150amp alternator from a 1st gen Sequoia or LX470.

naluloa

Wow that’s pretty good, considering all the bad things people have to say about HO alternators for the 2GS. I really wanted a HO one, but the 250A+ ones supposedly needed adapters/harnesses from another third party to regulate “properly” and supposedly a shorter belt. I was like I’m too lazy for that.

I did notice there was a big range in prices from Mechman -> JS -> XAT etc. But I couldn’t assume that it was 100% a quality thing, since our cars are so old. I thought it was more because the part is old, made to order, need to sell for a lot to keep a profit on it, or one thing like that. I don’t know off the top of my head but are the sequoia and LX470 2UZs?

I already went and installed the GS430 alternator the other week though, since I saw a CarTune NZ video that showed the 3UZ didn’t need any modifications. If the Sequoia and LX470 are 2UZ, they need some work that I wasn’t willing to put in.

dwoods801

The Sequoia and LX 470 are both 2UZ, mine is a 1UZ, so it’s got the oval plug with 3 wires, I am pretty sure the 2UZ and 3UZ both use a 4 wire square shaped plug, I would have to do some research to figure out what it takes to retrofit one. If I was going that route, i would find an alternator from a wrecking yard and take the wire plug from the same donor vehicle, and then I could just find the wire schematic so i could confirm everything was correct.
cartunez is an awesome source of information for these engines. Anyone who owns a 1UZ/3UZ, should check it out.

CurlyG

I've been running a 200A alternator built by DC Power in Riverside, CA for about 5 years with no issues. I did the big 3, and ran 1/0 AWG power and ground from the battery to the amps in the trunk. I'm also running a arcangel lithium battery. I also hooked up a charge voltage controller to the alternator, which I set and monitor in-car, set to 14.2-14.4V.



I found both over and under-voltage events stored in the ECU when I first connected via Techstream. You can't see these events via DTC's, and I've heard the 2GS is sensitive to over-voltage, however I haven't had any issues.
Other than the damn immobilizer locking the engine on short trips, like getting gas. Only if I stop, turn off the engine, get out, and get back in within a couple minutes, the immobilizer continues to flash even after I insert the key. All other times, it turns off when the key is inserted, and the engine starts. I have to disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds to bypass it, and be able to start the engine, and drive home. But I digress.