Yeah, now that they sell the antifreeze "pre-diluted", you're paying twice as much! I just did the timing belt, pulleys, and water pump on my '00 GS400, and it was about $200 for parts and coolant. I've learned a lot from working on this car, and this was my first timing belt job, so I needed to buy some new tools (ie: harmonic balancer puller), and watch a few instructional videos. Kelvin from Cartunes NZ has amazing videos explaining this kind of work.
The toughest part of the job was sealing the upper water inlet, where the square passageway from the water pump mates to the block, and is sealed with FIPG (RTV). The alignment of this passage competes with the insertion depth of an adjacent round, o-ringed water passage on the same part, as they both mate at the same time. Once the part is bolted down, you can't see if the square mating surfaces have been fully mated. I had to do the timing belt twice, b/c the first job leaked at this FIPG seal, and down onto the new timing belt and pulleys! Also, the original reason I replaced the timing belt was because coolant was leaking from this troublesome FIPG joint (and down onto the timing belt/pulleys!). If had had money, I would pay someone to do the work. However, I would specify replacing more than just the timing belt and water pump. I'd also have them replace the timing belt pulley tensioner, the 2 pulleys, install a new thermostat and gasket, and check the serpentine belt tensioner (mine needed replacement, a $33 part). I also installed 2 new serpentine belt idler pulleys ($100 for both). After all this work, the engine runs, and runs quieter.
The job also requires unbolting the AC compressor, and moving it to the side a bit. After bolting everything back together, my AC no longer blew cold (was ice cold before). I checked the lines and fittings for leaks, and found none. After reading the high and low AC line pressures, I ended up needing a new AC compressor, which I found on amzn for $250 (new, Denso!). I also installed a new condenser, which comes with a new, dry filter, free of any metal shavings from the old compressor. The AC once again blows ice cold.

 

My 04 GS430's black paint is now a little sun burned with 135K miles but mechanically, it's a gem! I'll keep it as long as I can get fuel for it. It's the best vehicle I've ever owned.

 

hI, trying to bump this coz no one's posted in a long time... thanks!!

 

Sadly, after attending to a great deal of deferred maintenance, my gs was swamped by hurricane Ian and went to a copart lot in central Florida. There are a lot of good parts on that car if anyone is interested, but after being submerged in seawater I wanted nothing to do with it. Sad, it was a very nice car

 

wow that sux... didn't Insurance pay??

 

They did. Not everything I had into it but enough to start over.

 

doing good, 298,000 miles and pulls hard. there are some rattles and old car type things that need to be repaired but runs great. i'm gonna hang on to this one for a while if i can.

 

Ever notice how GOOD a new Wheel Alignment feels?

 

I love getting alignments on the GS it drives like a new car afterwards. Especially when you have everything in the green. The suspension is so sensitive on this car. Even when it’s slightly out it drives like ****

 

267k miles and still going strong. We’ve had it for three years and all we’ve done is a new ecu, radiator, and recently the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. Could use a lot more love but it’s just a daily beater.

 

After 21 years and 179k miles, I’m now dealing with the awful P0420 code. I’m sure my cats are clogged, especially the mid pipe because I smell strong fumes at startup from the exhaust. Decided to stay away from an OEM used manifold header and purchase a new one from Magnaflow or Rockauto. I’m reluctant to purchase a new mid pipe cat, just unbolt and clean out the oem cat. At 21-22 years old, I’m not spending more than the car’s worth at this point. I love her, but I’ll be damn if I spend $3500 on oem new cats lol. Surprisingly she’s still on the original starter and fuel pump

 

Pretty close mileage when mine started setting these error codes - P0420, P0430 for both engine banks.
In fact, they are the opposite - clean. The honeycomb liner, which is supposed to neutralize the residual gases by a catalytic (thermal) reaction, no longer has rare earth metal coatings. It's all burned out.
So now the gases just passed through without it. And what is this error code - low efficiency of the catalytic converter.
You can get along with aftermarket catalytic converters for a few years. Read the warranty Information: E.P.A. Compliant: 25,000 Miles - Catalytic Performance; C.A.R.B. Compliant: 5 Years / 50,000 Miles - Catalytic Performance.

The mid-pipe catalytic converter does not need to be replaced. There are no sensors around it to check the performance, so it will never set the code.

 

So what did you do? Did you chase exhaust leaks or did you replace the manifold? If you replaced, what brand did you go with? If I decide to go with Rockauto or Magnaflow, I’ll probably purchase the California version because the warranty is extended for CARB (up to 50k vs 25k) which leads me to believe that it has more pressure metals inside. I honestly think the honeycomb inside the manifold cats are clear, but I think years of soot has accumulated in the mid pipe cat. I’ve seen photos on this site where owners are literally sweeping up the soot once unbolting

 

Yours looks exactly like my 1999, same rims also.

 

Just curious... do you consider "wheel alignment" a topic that falls under "suspension"?