did u just call your mother "a l'il ole lady"?

 

Hey, is that another light blue GS on the other side of the lane across from the gold one - so you've got TWO - what is that?

 

After front catalytic converters threw a code P0430, I replaced both, I had debris in my exhaust system. Midas cut out center cat and removed all debris from exhaust system. Now running perfect again.

 

That was my grandma's car for a little while. Kinda of a special gs, i think it had the something called the Platinum package(?). Silver paint , black leather , it was nice.

 

My 2001 GS300 has 134,000 miles and it still runs. It’s a little bit beat up compared to my other Lexus. It currently has the VSC light on and it’s difficult to drive. Outside of that it’s already had the timing belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets, brakes, and new tires done.

The VSC thing drives me nuts to be honest. I plan to get rid of the car and look for a GS400/GS430 once the prices go back down. I really like the second generation GS so far and it seems like a solid car. I’m mad at myself for not buying one sooner.

 

Ya, VSC turned on ALLA TIME would be a pain in d'a$$.

 

Every time I fill up I get VSC, VCS OFF and CEL. I hope I can keeping clearing and pass inspection.

 

It’s pretty aggravating. The lights come on if I drive more ten miles. They go away if I unplug the battery for a while.

I get those three if I’m driving more than 10 miles at a time. Mine is related to the throttle body since I have to push the pedal to the floor to go anywhere.

I’ve seen those same lights come on in other Lexus but they had to do with the seal on the gas cap going bad. I’ve seen it on my LS and GX before.

 

@ @Kira X - where are you located? Also "had" (past tense) that issue - where you have to literally pound the pedal to the floor with your foot & keep pressure on to get a tiny bit of acceleration.

One dealer said there's "moisture or humidity" that gets in there which might be bullsh|t & they wanted to change a small part for around $600 which I never did altho they charged me $50 ONLY for the analysis / diagnosis. The issue however did go away after some months, but kicks in & out every once on a while. Would like to know if ANY OTHER MODELS or Car Manufacturers experience this same issue.

ADMINS - maybe this should be a topic on its own - "literally pound the pedal to the floor with your foot & keep pressure on to get a tiny bit of acceleration".

 

Hi,
Picked up a 2000 gs400 today. Turned 167000 miles on the way home. It feels very solid but I’m somewhat concerned about the timing belt because I have no record of it being serviced. Reading through this thread I’m seeing starters mentioned and I know front suspension is a common wear item on these cars, but can anyone chime in on things I should pay special attention too?
tia
Ddk912

 

@ @Ddk912 the Timing Belt ONLY: a) if it has notches, wear & tear, and b) if you think you will NOT notice if it goes out while you're driving on the highway. My timing belt has notches, wear & tear, EVERY TIME I've gone for oil changes they recommend replacing it, and i never have going on over 20+ years.

Don't worry about the Starter until/unless you have to, or anything else IMO, except of course for Regular Maintenance, Oil & Filter Changes, Rotating Tires, etc. Others on here might have different opinions.

 

Good advice. What about rust? The body is solid, with no visible rust, but in looking underneath it’s a bit dodgy. Do any of these have the frame issues the Toyota trucks and four runners are know for? I’ve never heard of it but that doesn’t mean it’s not a thing.

 

Not sure, re-read the posts in this thread mentioning rust protection / treatment https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ng-strong.html, but would like to hear what other owners have to say.

With rust protection sprayed on at least the under-carriage & doors (you can see some holes inside the doors for that), if doing it every (other) year, the GS is pretty good for little to no rust.

If I was in MN I'd drive up to Canada & go to Canadian Tire where they have 3 different treatment levels for pretty low $, they even do in & around the engine if you want, but tell them to NOT go crazy, but if they DO go crazy, the stuff literally lasts for YEARS on your car coz it's pretty thick, and the USD goes pretty far up there. Google & check YouTube for more info

 

The truck and four runner rust thing is often where the frame is a box tube with holes in the sides. Road salts or mud goes in with no way out. In time that leads to the box rusting on the inside.
Also near the gas tank where it's mounted to the box tube.
A coworker who welds as a side business was telling me just this week how he has a long list of Toyota pickup owners wanting him to fix their frame. He explained how and why the issue exists.
If you go to carid and look up your frame you will see it is not a box tube with holes in the side.

 

As of two days ago, I painted the rear subframe (and differential) of my GS300. Of course, there is a lot of prepping that must be done before painting even rusty metal primer on. I did my control arms and everything, too. Took about one and a half cans of primer and one and a half cans of black paint. I think its worth it to be honest, hopefully it stops the rust for the most part.