GSog3

2000 Lexus Gs300
Before this all happened my car was running great, I decided to change my radio to a double din. I disconnected my positive terminal on my battery and took out my radio. After installing the radio I reconnected the battery and the car wouldn’t start. When I insert my key in the ignition the security light flashes and stays on. The car will crank but will not start and there is no spark. I think it is a security issue because I disconnected the battery??? Help please

Arsenii

Hello,

Immobilizer generally disables spark, so it does seem like a security issue. Does your key work to lock and unlock the car?

Check all the fuses, see if all the lights on the dashboard are working. Maybe there is a vague chance it is an ignition coil or amplifier, but it is probably and ECU issue, and you may need someone else to test the ECU for you.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

GSog3

I figured out the problem, when I disconnected the battery it must’ve messed with the ecu. I unplugged it and replugged it back in and car started right up.

Arsenii

It seems like you reset the immobilizer. Maybe it was in the armed state for some reason?

In any way, glad you solved your issue!

Pciljp1

My 92 sc300 will not start. Cranks but no or little spark from distributor. Have spark going into distributor from coil but little to no spark to plugs. Does this year model have an immobilizer? Car has been parked for some time and battery was dead.

Arsenii

Hello,

Are you sure that the distributor gets the voltage?
Did you check Spark Plug Wires?

I am not sure, but I don't think your car has an immobilizer.

From my understanding, if you have a spark coming to the distributor and not leaving, it is either a distributor, or wires. Chances are it may have gotten bad during the time when the car was parked.
Be sure to not take out the whole distributor unless if you absolutely have to, and also look for the information on what to mark before you do, otherwise you will mess-up you ignition timing.

P.S. This part of the forum is designated to Lexus GS, so to get more help for your specific vehicle, you will be better off visiting Lexus SC forum, here is a link.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

EPR

@Arsenii You seem to know a lot about these cars. I have a 2000 GS300 that I just replaced a dead battery on. It cranks but wont start, doesn't have any parasitic draws from checking the Amps on the negative terminal, when disconnected. (Well below 50 mA) The V will go up to about 13.6 while its running, so the alternator seems to be working. The volts don't dip below 12 when cranking, but it never starts. Battery is a group 24 with 600CCA so it should work fine. (Maybe I'll try a 700CCA?)

The car will only start when I jump it but not on it's own...any suggestions?

(I was thinking I'll check spark plugs/wires next)

Arsenii

Hello,

Why did the old battery die?
So how it cranks? Is it just slow to crank when you are not jumping it?

Check all the Battery terminals for any corrosion or other residue, and connection from the Ground terminal to the frame, clean them as needed. Then check connections that go to the starter. If that won't help, take the starter out and ask a local parts store to test it for you, they usually do it for free.

While it is unlikely, but it is still worth checking if you have a correct battery - any parts store should be able to load-test it. I believe a battery for 2000 Lexus GS300 should have around 700 CCA.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

EPR

@Arsenii The old battery was dying when I bought it, and I think it was just charged so I could take it home. I think it was just sitting for a while, but to be honest I don't really know. The terminals are spotless, I even lightly sanded the inside of the black and red rings before putting on the new battery. The only thing that's been stumping me is that it will start with a jump, but not on it's own. I just checked the spark plugs/wires, while the wires are in good condition the plugs are just minimally worn but they all look relatively new'ish. I also plugged in a spare plug to each wire then ran a line to the negative terminal and all give a spark so the coil packs seem to be firing. (Mine doesn't have a single distributor they're all on the plugs) The only other thing I can think is that it needs a higher CCA battery. I think I'll go trade it in for a 700 tomorrow, since I literally bought the 600 today it shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks for the input, I think I might just be overlooking the simplest solution in the batteries CCA rating. Unfortunately that's kind of the only thing I can't test at home without having a spare battery on hand lol. Fingers crossed.

Arsenii

How are you jumping the car? Are you putting both wires on terminals, or you are using a different ground (as it is generally recommended)? Check the ground connection form the negative terminal to the frame. Try carefully running one jumper cable from the negative terminal to the solid frame ground and see if the car will start on its own. If so, your negative terminal or a ground somewhere is bad, though I am not sure about how safe it is to do.

600 CCA should be sufficient enough to start the car on the warm day. Still, if it is not a problem to get a different battery, it's worth a try..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

EPR

@Arsenii Thanks for the help mate. The problem turned out to be the CCA rating after all.
I started with a 675 CCA and it would work sometimes, but the battery was not holding a charge even after I charged it to 12.3v. While cranking it would drop to 10.9 and if I didn't let the car run (to recharge via alternator) then it wouldn't start. When I tried it again it would drop to 9.6v while cranking, so the battery just would hold a charge. I replaced it with a 600CCA and it would crank strong while holding about 11.4v but it only started with a boost. I returned the 600 for a 700CCA and now it kicks on without hesitation. Another thing to note is that I live in NM (it's August when writing this) and the temperature here is 95F and up during the day so it's plenty warm outside.

FOR ANYONE ASKING ABOUT BATTERIES: Group 24 / 24F, 700~750 CCA
(24 is the size of the battery, F means pos/neg sides are switched)

Arsenii

Well, glad you found a solution, though to be honest, that is not what I expected to be the culprit. Still, more experience is never a bad thing after all..

Thank you for posting a solution, I am sure someone will find it helpful..

peter20201

I am currently trying to fix my Lexus GS300 crank no start issue. I have spent a lots of time and money on it trying to fix it myself. Any advices and help is very appreciate.

First, I have a 2002 GS300 2JZGE overheat with white smoke from engine, and eventually just die on the road. Then it will only crank but won't start anymore. Towel it home check code but nothing shows up. Coolant is low so I add some and verify no leak. Turn on AC, and the fan will run too so changed a coolant temp sensor. But it still crank no start.

Then I check spark plugs there are sparks coming out OK, and the injectors are clicking OK when trying to start. Air filter is clean, no physical vacuum leak that I can find with the smoke test machine. I also checked the spark and injector wires and they all have 12V power. I double checked all wires on the engine bay and they looked all fine. I then replace all new after market coils, sparks and fuel injectors but the result is the same. Crank and no start.

I also spray starter fluid and engine will turn on for like 2 seconds and die . So I changed a new OEM Lexus GS300 fuel pump and a OEM regulator, and now it will start but die within 2 seconds.

Then I opened the valve cover gaskets to make sure no visible damage as I previous changed the gaskets to fix the valve cover leaking issue, and I also visually checked the engine main gasket to make sure there is no coolant leak and all pistons and valves all visually looks good.

I check the compression and cylinder 1 is pretty low like 50-60, but this should not cause crank no start as other cylinder are within speck. I then double checked the timing belt and they all looks good and aligned correctly. I changed both the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors but they did not fix the problem. And worse, now my GS300 can only crank and no start. It was able to start up for like 2 seconds. I spray starter fluid again, and it did not make any difference any more.

Then I get a bi-direction scan tools and found I have no throttle position response so I change the TPS because when I press the throttle, it won't response. This does not fix the issue either.

As of this writing, I am running out of options on fixing this car. I don't know what else I can do. This car has air (I replace MAF too), sparks and fuel for sure. No code. Check wire and no grounding issue or wiring problem. Fuses are all OK.

My next plan is to check the fuel pressure as I never check that as I don't know how, but my bi-directional scan tools does not show any fuel issue as live data show injects and fuel pump are On when I turn the ignition on. I don't know what else I can do after this. Maybe to replace a ECM? Just try to share here with other owner having the similar issue, and seeking advice before I spend more money on this car. Thank you in advance.

Arsenii

Hello,

Well, let's start with the very beginning, the very core of your issue - if you overheated an engine to a point of White Smoke, Low Coolant, and it Stalling on its own, the engine itself is positively fried, and there is nothing that could be done but to take it out and either rebuild it, or get a new engine. Heat expands parts, which causes pistons to bind, and heads to warp, and it seems like you got both. I6 engines are particularly susceptible to overheating, as they are a lot longer than usual, cooling can be trickier, and the head has much more surface to warp.

If you are still looking to continue the diagnostics, here is a thread with a flow chart for crank-no-start condition.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

GSog3

I actually solved this issue, my key needed to be reprogrammed to ecu.