selddir

Alright so back in January my car started going into limp mode (loss of acceleration, didnt die or anything)

The codes I got were for the TPS and APPS.

I replaced the TPS, it didn't work. I replaced the APPS, voila, it seemed to have fixed the issue.

So a few weeks ago my car did the whole VSC lights on and went into limp mode again, but the only code I got was for an O2 sensor (P0141)

It ran fine after that until last week. Last week, it does it again, this time multiple times. This time I was able to floor the pedal and get it to go back to driving normal. It was as if it didn't read that the pedal was being pushed until I went pedal to the medal.

I took it in for a diagnostic today. Originally when I described the issue the guy said he was almost positive it was an ECU issue and he had fixed that problem a few times before. At the diagnostic, the guys said they couldn't recreate the issue no matter what they tried. The codes they got were the same O2 sensor code, and codes for the ABS system (codes 1223, 1233, and 1246). They tested the ECU and said it's working fine and the TPS is sending and receiving proper data.

The thing is, they all said the car ran like a dream. No issues whatsoever other than the codes. There were no brake issues, no buzzing/squealing like you'd normally have with ABS issues. They said they recommend replacing the entire ABS module, but really couldn't give me a reason why other than the codes. I asked if they were positive that was the issue, and they said no. They said they Recalibrated the YAW Rate and it's no longer throwing those ABS codes.

So does this sound like ABS issues to anyone here? To get more specific with the symptoms, the car throws on the VSC Off lights and loses acceleration. It doesn't idle weird, or die, I have no issues with the brakes. If I floor the pedal it kicks off the lights and drives like normal. It's only happened twice in the last month.

They told me recalibrating the Yaw Rate is 'standard procedure' when replacing the TPS and APPS. I didn't do that. Is it possible this was just a calibration issue and it should be back to normal now that they've calibrated it? Does this sound like I actually need to replace the entire ABS module to anyone here? I'm illiterate with cars. I really have no idea, but being told I need to get a $2000 repair seems like they're taking me for a run.

I paid for the diagnostic and told them I'm gonna do some research and figure out what's next. Bottom line is I'm not going to spend $2k to fix this. If it comes to that I'll get a new daily driver. If what they told me sounds accurate to y'all I guess I better go carshopping. My gut instinct is that they were pretty uncertain about what the issue is, but wanted to act like they had figured something out since I was paying them to figure something out.

If I'm dumb asf and it sounds like classic ABS issues let me know.