Installed new touch screen radio and rearview camera
#1
Installed new touch screen radio and rearview camera
Thought I would post since here wasn't a whole lot of info on installing a rearview camera on a 2nd Gen GS300. This was the first time I've installed a rearview camera and wasn't exactly sure who to connect it and run the wires from the rear to the radio. Hopefully it will help someone get an idea on what to do.
We decided to upgrade the stereo in our '01 GS300 to a touch screen that has both Android Auto and Apple Car Play. While at it I wanted the car to have a rearview camera as well. Total cost was under $400 from Crutchfield.
Alpine iLX-W650
Boyo VTL17LTJ
Posi-Products connectors
Posi-Products tap it connectors
I used the following videos to get an idea on how to remove the rear tail light and how a rearview camera works.
This was also the first time I've seen or used the Posi-Products connectors and taps. I like them and would recommend them. Look them up on Crutchfield to see how they work.
You will have to drill a hole in the trunk lid in order to get the camera wire into the trunk. I put the camera up to the license plate to get a basic idea on where the whole would have to go. I also pulled off half of the lining around the trunk and to see if it looked like there was anything in the way. Once I drilled the hole I did find out it was real close to a brace but luckily the wire just went to the side of the brace and I was able to pull it through. I then ran the wire down the plastic covering of the trunk hinge. I was able to just push it up inside of the plastic without removing it. From there I went to the side panel and back towards the rear seat. I tried to find a way to not have to pull the rear seat but honestly there was no real way to do it and the seat is pretty easy to remove enough to gain access to the trunk area. Once your remove the bottom seat cushion by just pulling up and moving it out of the way, there are four bolts at the bottom of the seat back and a bolt under each head rest. Just pull the head rest out and pull up the velcroed cover to access the two top bolts. From there you can just lean the rear seat forward and get the wire.
Once I was past the rear seat then I again just tucked the wire up under the door kick panels all the way up to the glove box. You'll have to drop the glove box any away to get to the amplifier's wiring harness. It's pretty self explanatory to get the wire from the glove box area over to the head unit. There are other posts on how to drop the glove box.
For the connection to the rear tail light, I found the red wire to be the positive wire to tap into. I used the t-tap and the worked perfect but I forgot to get a picture of then installed. I used a pick to make a small whole to run the wires through the factory grommet. The only real negative to the rearview camera install is how tiny the wire is. It's hard to get anything to wrap around with it but it worked in the t-taps.
The only other tip I'll give that I didn't know about was the fact that, depending on the stereo you buy, will more than likely have to wire up the parking brake to the radio. I didn't think we would need to do that since we didn't plan to watch any DVDs but you still have to do it to access other things. In the case of this Alpine unit you have to have it wired up to access just about anything. Without it you can't set the clock, connect to bluetooth, or use Android Auto. I searched on Amazon and found a $10 wiring plug that hooks the power antenna up to the parking brake and it makes it work perfectly. Well worth the $10 even though I could have probably figure out another way to rig it up.
The only thing I have left is to try to find a small grommet for the hole I had to drill in the trunk lid. If I don't find something I will put some clear silicone over the hole to keep water out and the wire in place.
We decided to upgrade the stereo in our '01 GS300 to a touch screen that has both Android Auto and Apple Car Play. While at it I wanted the car to have a rearview camera as well. Total cost was under $400 from Crutchfield.
Alpine iLX-W650
Boyo VTL17LTJ
Posi-Products connectors
Posi-Products tap it connectors
I used the following videos to get an idea on how to remove the rear tail light and how a rearview camera works.
This was also the first time I've seen or used the Posi-Products connectors and taps. I like them and would recommend them. Look them up on Crutchfield to see how they work.
You will have to drill a hole in the trunk lid in order to get the camera wire into the trunk. I put the camera up to the license plate to get a basic idea on where the whole would have to go. I also pulled off half of the lining around the trunk and to see if it looked like there was anything in the way. Once I drilled the hole I did find out it was real close to a brace but luckily the wire just went to the side of the brace and I was able to pull it through. I then ran the wire down the plastic covering of the trunk hinge. I was able to just push it up inside of the plastic without removing it. From there I went to the side panel and back towards the rear seat. I tried to find a way to not have to pull the rear seat but honestly there was no real way to do it and the seat is pretty easy to remove enough to gain access to the trunk area. Once your remove the bottom seat cushion by just pulling up and moving it out of the way, there are four bolts at the bottom of the seat back and a bolt under each head rest. Just pull the head rest out and pull up the velcroed cover to access the two top bolts. From there you can just lean the rear seat forward and get the wire.
Once I was past the rear seat then I again just tucked the wire up under the door kick panels all the way up to the glove box. You'll have to drop the glove box any away to get to the amplifier's wiring harness. It's pretty self explanatory to get the wire from the glove box area over to the head unit. There are other posts on how to drop the glove box.
For the connection to the rear tail light, I found the red wire to be the positive wire to tap into. I used the t-tap and the worked perfect but I forgot to get a picture of then installed. I used a pick to make a small whole to run the wires through the factory grommet. The only real negative to the rearview camera install is how tiny the wire is. It's hard to get anything to wrap around with it but it worked in the t-taps.
The only other tip I'll give that I didn't know about was the fact that, depending on the stereo you buy, will more than likely have to wire up the parking brake to the radio. I didn't think we would need to do that since we didn't plan to watch any DVDs but you still have to do it to access other things. In the case of this Alpine unit you have to have it wired up to access just about anything. Without it you can't set the clock, connect to bluetooth, or use Android Auto. I searched on Amazon and found a $10 wiring plug that hooks the power antenna up to the parking brake and it makes it work perfectly. Well worth the $10 even though I could have probably figure out another way to rig it up.
The only thing I have left is to try to find a small grommet for the hole I had to drill in the trunk lid. If I don't find something I will put some clear silicone over the hole to keep water out and the wire in place.
Last edited by caverman; 02-10-21 at 09:22 AM.
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#2
I know it's been a year since this was posted but hoping you can shed some light on a few questions regarding the Alpine install part...I have an 05 GS300 with standard audio (CD changer in glovebox, no ML)
When you replaced the original head unit with that JVC, where did you get the faceplate around it?
Did you connect to the original factory amp?
I was going to go with a Grom to add bluetooth to my OEM head unit, but I've been snakebit - bought the Grom, the oem unit wouldn't recognize it (right one confirmed by Grom), bought a replacement OEM head unit on eBay that connected to the Grom but all the buttons were stuck due to water damage and also it seems my factory amp crapped out (unit powers on, switches stations, but no sound). So now I'm thinking just bite the bullet and put in a touchscreen.
Also, does the factory sub still work? I need my bass but I'm seeing things online like "When you replace your factory radio, the factory subwoofer and subwoofer amplifier (if present) will no longer work." - If that is true, what did you do?
When you replaced the original head unit with that JVC, where did you get the faceplate around it?
Did you connect to the original factory amp?
I was going to go with a Grom to add bluetooth to my OEM head unit, but I've been snakebit - bought the Grom, the oem unit wouldn't recognize it (right one confirmed by Grom), bought a replacement OEM head unit on eBay that connected to the Grom but all the buttons were stuck due to water damage and also it seems my factory amp crapped out (unit powers on, switches stations, but no sound). So now I'm thinking just bite the bullet and put in a touchscreen.
Also, does the factory sub still work? I need my bass but I'm seeing things online like "When you replace your factory radio, the factory subwoofer and subwoofer amplifier (if present) will no longer work." - If that is true, what did you do?
#3
I know it's been a year since this was posted but hoping you can shed some light on a few questions regarding the Alpine install part...I have an 05 GS300 with standard audio (CD changer in glovebox, no ML)
When you replaced the original head unit with that JVC, where did you get the faceplate around it?
Did you connect to the original factory amp?
I was going to go with a Grom to add bluetooth to my OEM head unit, but I've been snakebit - bought the Grom, the oem unit wouldn't recognize it (right one confirmed by Grom), bought a replacement OEM head unit on eBay that connected to the Grom but all the buttons were stuck due to water damage and also it seems my factory amp crapped out (unit powers on, switches stations, but no sound). So now I'm thinking just bite the bullet and put in a touchscreen.
Also, does the factory sub still work? I need my bass but I'm seeing things online like "When you replace your factory radio, the factory subwoofer and subwoofer amplifier (if present) will no longer work." - If that is true, what did you do?
When you replaced the original head unit with that JVC, where did you get the faceplate around it?
Did you connect to the original factory amp?
I was going to go with a Grom to add bluetooth to my OEM head unit, but I've been snakebit - bought the Grom, the oem unit wouldn't recognize it (right one confirmed by Grom), bought a replacement OEM head unit on eBay that connected to the Grom but all the buttons were stuck due to water damage and also it seems my factory amp crapped out (unit powers on, switches stations, but no sound). So now I'm thinking just bite the bullet and put in a touchscreen.
Also, does the factory sub still work? I need my bass but I'm seeing things online like "When you replace your factory radio, the factory subwoofer and subwoofer amplifier (if present) will no longer work." - If that is true, what did you do?
I drive a stock LS with the Mark Levenson and a Grom for bluetooth. Can't really use it with my latest Samsung phone though. I wish I had the ability to put in an aftermarket touch screen with all the stuff mentioned above but I can't get rid of my head unit because it controls the A/C.
#4
We bought that JVC and the faceplate from Crutchfield. Personally I think the touchscreen with a backup camera is by far a better option. This was for my son's car and he don't really listen to music very loud and definitely doesn't care much about bass. If I remember correctly when we bought the JVC it came with a plug to bypass the factory amp and that was already there when we replaced it with the touch screen. He is just listening to the 4 door speakers with the stock 22w or what ever it was from the touchscreen head unit and no sub. If it were mine I would put in the touch screen and back up camera as well as run a smaller amp to power the door speakers and then a pre-built sub with an amp built in. Or a 5-channel amp with a boxed sub in the trunk.
I drive a stock LS with the Mark Levenson and a Grom for bluetooth. Can't really use it with my latest Samsung phone though. I wish I had the ability to put in an aftermarket touch screen with all the stuff mentioned above but I can't get rid of my head unit because it controls the A/C.
I drive a stock LS with the Mark Levenson and a Grom for bluetooth. Can't really use it with my latest Samsung phone though. I wish I had the ability to put in an aftermarket touch screen with all the stuff mentioned above but I can't get rid of my head unit because it controls the A/C.
The following users liked this post:
beideman (09-05-22)
#5
We bought that JVC and the faceplate from Crutchfield. Personally I think the touchscreen with a backup camera is by far a better option. This was for my son's car and he don't really listen to music very loud and definitely doesn't care much about bass. If I remember correctly when we bought the JVC it came with a plug to bypass the factory amp and that was already there when we replaced it with the touch screen. He is just listening to the 4 door speakers with the stock 22w or what ever it was from the touchscreen head unit and no sub. If it were mine I would put in the touch screen and back up camera as well as run a smaller amp to power the door speakers and then a pre-built sub with an amp built in. Or a 5-channel amp with a boxed sub in the trunk.
I drive a stock LS with the Mark Levenson and a Grom for bluetooth. Can't really use it with my latest Samsung phone though. I wish I had the ability to put in an aftermarket touch screen with all the stuff mentioned above but I can't get rid of my head unit because it controls the A/C.
I drive a stock LS with the Mark Levenson and a Grom for bluetooth. Can't really use it with my latest Samsung phone though. I wish I had the ability to put in an aftermarket touch screen with all the stuff mentioned above but I can't get rid of my head unit because it controls the A/C.
I'm thinking about the same ILX-W650 head unit but packaged with the KTA-450 amp https://www.crutchfield.com/p_700650...6fromlanding=1 but wondering if that amp will be able to power the sub...guess I could ask the tech support at Crutchfield
bummer that it seems to be pending supply chain issues...I think one of the local installers has them, but not sure about the faceplate/wiring kits or how much extra cost I'd pay to get it now.
#6
I can't be arsed to look up the exact specs right now to confirm if that amp would work, but yes, if you find one suitable to the OEM subwoofer's specifications you can definitely use an aftermarket amp to power it. If you give Crutchfield or whomever else the specs of your sub, they ought to be able to find you a suitable amplifier.
#7
Awesome install, and howdy fellow TX GS owner.
I did this same install over winter. I ended up going with a Sony XAV-AX3250 and whatever $10 backup camera you get off eBay. If I could do it again, I would've picked out a different backup camera that was more adjustable instead of trying to chase a pure OEM look.
I'm amazed at how much a good headunit changes a car. You go from struggling with a FM-BT transmitter to having Android Auto/Carplay.
I did this same install over winter. I ended up going with a Sony XAV-AX3250 and whatever $10 backup camera you get off eBay. If I could do it again, I would've picked out a different backup camera that was more adjustable instead of trying to chase a pure OEM look.
I'm amazed at how much a good headunit changes a car. You go from struggling with a FM-BT transmitter to having Android Auto/Carplay.
The following users liked this post:
Htowncory (08-09-22)
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