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My 99 GS300 needs a new oil pump and the mechanics are saying they need to take out the whole engine to replace it, is this true or can I just buy a new oil pump and replace it myself without having to take out the engine ??
My 99 GS300 needs a new oil pump and the mechanics are saying they need to take out the whole engine to replace it, is this true or can I just buy a new oil pump and replace it myself without having to take out the engine ??
What's actually wrong with the car?
Miles?
Maintenance history?
The 2JZ motor in your car is pretty bullet proof if its been serviced regularly, aka oil changes ever 5k miles, coolant changes according to schedule, timing belts at the 60,000 mile intervals(that was the interval on my 1992 SC300, might be different on a 1999 model).
Well when I was last driving it my oil light came on so I thought it need a new oil change so took it but it keeps coming back on and recently the red oil light comes on for a second then goes away. A couple days later when i was driving it my check engine light, oil light (not the red one),VSC,VSC OFF all turned on and I haven’t driven it since to prevent any damages, my GS300 has 155,550 ive changed the water pump,timing belt,spark plugs, camshaft seals, crankshaft seals, and valve cover gaskets and done all the oil changes on time.
Most likely it is just the oil light switch. Called oil pressure sender unit. The other lights are unrelated and might come on for a totally different reason as nothing to do with engine or bery little.
Most likely it is just the oil light switch. Called oil pressure sender unit. The other lights are unrelated and might come on for a totally different reason as nothing to do with engine or bery little.
From what I understand, the oil pressure sender unit might be able to throw a code, which would spark the VSC off and CEL lights. Not sure if my assessment is correct, though.
So I changed my oil pressure sensor and as soon as I pulled out of the driveway the red oil light came on, i don’t know if I put it on wrong because when I was tightening it I didn’t tighten it all the way because it was already feeling tight to the point where it couldn't tighten no more so there is like a little gap between the block and sensor but its tightened as much as I could. What should I do???
Is this an OEM sending unit? Or just one from a parts store? How did it look when compared to the original one? Did they look identical? The oil system is the heart of your engine. It’s critical to the engine, it would be a waste to take good care of it for 155k, only to burn up the bearings while they still have plenty of life ahead of them. I understand wanting to save money by doing what you can at home, but always know your limitations. I was nervous while reading this whole thread, fearing the next post would be the one I would learn it’s now got a nasty hammering noise when u fire it up. I would suggest an OEM sending unit, and if the light is still on when you fire it up, either get it towed to a trusted shop, or make an appointment with a mobile technician. It’s better to be safe than burning it down.
How about a photo of the part you removed?
Having followed and contributed to this thread, seeing where you are at now, two th8ngs come to mind.
1 Does the Low oil level switch use the same light?
i think it is near the dipstick tube where the sump and block meet.
2 It seems likely that you got the correct sender or sensor but just above ot and to the right, on thr block, I see a sensor which I GUESS could only be a knock sensor or an oil sender unit. EDIT It is as per diahram
So it is the correct unit you replaced.
So as the others say, put a guage on it but that will only determine if it is indeed getting oil pressure. You still need to fix the light or the cause of the light.
Ill do some searching and get back here.
How about an update? Were you able to get your car straightened out? Did u get it handled yourself? Was the sending unit the culprit? Or was the oil pump the issue? Hopefully you were able to get it taken care of.