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light Maintenace on 02 GS 300 I can do

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Old 12-25-21, 01:30 PM
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QLex300
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Exclamation light Maintenace on 02 GS 300 I can do

Hi,
Recently got an 02 GS 300 and been doing small replacements.
Cabin Filter replaced
Air Filter replaced
Spark Plugs replaced
Dome lights
Mass Air flow Sensor replaced
PVC Valve replaced
Throttle bodies cleaned

Any way to tell if timing belt was done?
Like signs of worn belt or something?
thank you
Oil Changed

Last edited by QLex300; 12-25-21 at 01:35 PM.
Old 12-25-21, 02:29 PM
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TrueGS300
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In order to do plugs I'm sure you were able to see the timing belt. The usual check is for cracks. If there is no sticker or record of having been done, it is safer to replace it than guess and hope. But if it is not oil soaked or discolored and has a regular black color and no cracking it should be good for a long while.
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Old 12-25-21, 03:01 PM
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CurlyG
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+1. If you care enough to do what you've done already, then the timing belt and water pump are next. Go with all Denso parts, if you can. FWIW, after I did the timing belt on my '00 GS400, the air conditioner compressor no longer worked (worked fine before the job). Simply unbolting it and moving it to the side a little was enough to retire it.
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Old 12-26-21, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
In order to do plugs I'm sure you were able to see the timing belt. The usual check is for cracks. If there is no sticker or record of having been done, it is safer to replace it than guess and hope. But if it is not oil soaked or discolored and has a regular black color and no cracking it should be good for a long while.
Thanks for the insight...
Old 12-26-21, 03:28 AM
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QLex300
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Originally Posted by CurlyG
+1. If you care enough to do what you've done already, then the timing belt and water pump are next. Go with all Denso parts, if you can. FWIW, after I did the timing belt on my '00 GS400, the air conditioner compressor no longer worked (worked fine before the job). Simply unbolting it and moving it to the side a little was enough to retire it.
Hi
Im get a indie shop to do the job and change out water pump as well.
thanks
actually went to dealer to get timing belt and water belt done.

Last edited by QLex300; 02-18-22 at 08:08 AM.
Old 12-26-21, 02:19 PM
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CurlyG
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For me, the toughest part of the timing belt job was sealing the water inlet at the top. It's the joint behind the thermostat, where two rectangular surfaces mate and are sealed with FIPG (RTV). The alignment of these mating surfaces compete with a round tube casting (on the same part) that mates to the intake, sealed with an o-ring. I screwed it up (twice!), and since these two coolant joints are above everything, the resulting coolant leaks cascades down onto the new timing belt!
FWIW, there are two idler pulleys and a tensioner pulley (and arm) that can be replaced, along with the serpentine belt. Have them do a new front main seal while they're in there too!
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Old 12-27-21, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
In order to do plugs I'm sure you were able to see the timing belt. The usual check is for cracks. If there is no sticker or record of having been done, it is safer to replace it than guess and hope. But if it is not oil soaked or discolored and has a regular black color and no cracking it should be good for a long while.
Thanks for the info!
Old 12-27-21, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CurlyG
For me, the toughest part of the timing belt job was sealing the water inlet at the top. It's the joint behind the thermostat, where two rectangular surfaces mate and are sealed with FIPG (RTV). The alignment of these mating surfaces compete with a round tube casting (on the same part) that mates to the intake, sealed with an o-ring. I screwed it up (twice!), and since these two coolant joints are above everything, the resulting coolant leaks cascades down onto the new timing belt!
FWIW, there are two idler pulleys and a tensioner pulley (and arm) that can be replaced, along with the serpentine belt. Have them do a new front main seal while they're in there too!
Will do,Thanks
Old 12-28-21, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by QLex300
Hi
Im get a indie shop to do the job and change out water pump as well.
thanks
If you decide to do the timing belt, I'd recommend as stated already to do the complete timing belt kit that includes the tensioner and pulley. And probably the water pump if it's never been done as it bolts to the block behind the timing belt. Some of the most common heavy leaks on the 2JZ-GE VVTi engine are the cam seals and the VVT sprocket seal. Your shop will not be able to locate the seal for the sprocket, but you can order it on eBay and provide the shop with it. Watch a couple videos on YouTube so you can explain it to them. Of course, if your engine doesn't seem to be leaking, might not worry about it. However, now would be the time to replace the 2 cam seals, 1 crank seal, and 1 VVT sprocket, or just the seal inside. I opted for a new VVT sprocket after attempting the seal repair twice and getting codes after. I also found my harmonic damper to be near failure when I did mine and not having it on hand made it double the price having to get it the same day. If you can inspect it with a flashlight and telescoping mirror, look for the rubber elastomer to be protruding, or coming out between the inner and outer shell or for crack or oil contamination. Also look at it while the engine runs for any wobbling. It would be another good thing to provide for the job if it's bad and would save some big money instead of them buying it at top dollar and passing the markup on to you. A failed damper has wiped out two engines in past cars of mine.
Some other tips to look for to verify the need for seals: A common area to see oil build up is the top water pump/alternator area. If it's wet with oil there, it is from the cam seals. That's where it find's it's way out from the front cover. If it's just leaking out of the bottom of the front cover, it is the crank seal. And if you pull the top timing cover to have a look inside, it is common to have oil slung all over in there and up on the underside of the cover. If that's the case it's the VVT sprocket seal. Anyways, I don't know if any of that helps. I figured by your first post that you were doing the work yourself, but I suppose you had them do the other maintenance you mentioned too? It's still good stuff to research and look at before taking it in. You could get calls for more and more money as the job is done. Also you can have the job done and leave thinking the car is good for the foreseeable future only to have some major issues come up if just the belt is replaced. You can save a lot of money by ordering quality parts online and having them on hand if any of these things are needed. I and others on here are also able to give you reputable sources and brands for parts you should or should not use.
Consider this: You will pay more for a low quality timing/WP from a shop (probably Autozone's Duralast brand) (which really really sucks) at their markup price than you will for an actual good brand like Aisin if you buy it yourself and provide it. Same goes with everything else.
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Old 12-28-21, 06:10 AM
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Unhappy

THANKS to all that helped get my 02 in EXCELLANT RUNNING CONDITION

Q

Last edited by QLex300; 02-18-22 at 08:14 AM.
Old 12-28-21, 06:27 AM
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Yes, a leak before an o2 sensor will cause a code. Go to a muffler shop and ask for a repair. It will be much cheaper and they can seal it up. It's what they do. Also, I'm pretty certain there never was any flex pipes on these. You can also buy a replacement mid-pipe that bolts to the cats if that's what's bad. But a muffler shop will be able to fix you up good for cheap.
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Old 12-28-21, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TrueGS300
Yes, a leak before an o2 sensor will cause a code. Go to a muffler shop and ask for a repair. It will be much cheaper and they can seal it up. It's what they do. Also, I'm pretty certain there never was any flex pipes on these. You can also buy a replacement mid-pipe that bolts to the cats if that's what's bad. But a muffler shop will be able to fix you up good for cheap.
Awesome Thanks
Old 12-28-21, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by CurlyG
+1. If you care enough to do what you've done already, then the timing belt and water pump are next. Go with all Denso parts, if you can. FWIW, after I did the timing belt on my '00 GS400, the air conditioner compressor no longer worked (worked fine before the job). Simply unbolting it and moving it to the side a little was enough to retire it.
Did you check to make sure you reconnected the electrical plug for the compressor? When I did the TB/WP on my 400, I forgot to plug it in
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Old 12-28-21, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SpectraBlu
Did you check to make sure you reconnected the electrical plug for the compressor? When I did the TB/WP on my 400, I forgot to plug it in
Yes I did thans
Old 02-18-22, 07:24 AM
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QLex300
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HI ,
Updated maintenance...

Gas Cap
Cabin Filter replaced
Air Filter replaced
Timing Belt Replaced *(dealer)*
Water Pump Replaced *(dealer)*
Serp Belt New
Cam SEALS
Idler Adjuster Replaced *(dealer)*
Tensioner Replaced
Valve Cover Gaskets
Spark Plugs replaced
Coils Replaced
Front Brakes
Ball Joints
Lower front Controls
Upper Front Arms
Dome lights/Door lights now working
Mass Air flow Sensor replaced
PVC Valve replaced
Throttle bodies cleaned
Front Right side wheel sensor replaced and VSC/ABS is good to go, No more Code
Oil changed
miles 124867
Thanks to every one on this forum!!!!

@Dwoods801
@True GS300
Thanks for all your help.. you guys are Guru's when it comes to these Lexus!!!1

All the input from so many, THANK YOU...

Looking to do minor mods and really enjoy these car.




Last edited by QLex300; 02-23-22 at 08:03 AM.


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