I have no spark, tested coils, no spark, I have 12v at coil plug (upper pin next to locking tab) when key (on.) No ground or pull to ground when cranking on other pin. Test light won’t light when probing ground pin while cranking. Intake manifold and radiator are removed while performing test due to timing belt job just done. Does the intake manifold and radiator electrical connectors have to be connected in order to get spark? Cps shows .9 ac volts while cranking, ohms are a bit out of range.

 

The usual no spark on all coils is from no crank sensor signal. This is especially reported after performing a timing belt service. The teeth on the crank sprocket reluctor are easy to bend, chip off or otherwise damage. The easiest way to tell is to get hold of a scanner that reads live data and look for an RPM signal while cranking. If you don't see it, the ECU isn't seeing what it needs to fire the coils. The correct way to tell without taking everything apart would be to use a lab scope and look for the frequency coming from the sensor while cranking, but obviously not many have access to that. If the sensor itself is bad or the wiring is messed up, there should be a code or two. Unfortunately I think you will have to come back apart and inspect your crank sprocket for damage.

There are cars that do need ECT (coolant temp sensor) to start. But the one the ECU is looking at is on the intake side of the engine. The one in the radiator is just for the gauge I'm pretty sure. But if you have the sensor, you may want to plug it in just to be sure.

 

When I first finished the timing job almost two months ago and the car didn’t start I thought I might’ve messed up the timing but I double checked all the marks and it was good, the car sounded like it wanted to start and stumbled a lot so at that time when I checked for spark on the spark plug wire that I could access from there I noticed the spark was very weak, I disconnected the cps and the car didn’t start but sounded much better while cranking. I’ll scan for codes and to see if the issue is the crank sensor, since i saw some voltage fluctuating when I back probed it yesterday with the dvom I thought it wasn’t the issue but it might be giving a bad signal regardless.
I’m trying to gather all the info I can since I work out of town and only get to work on the car every weekend or two.
Thanks a lot for the info! 👍🏼 After that I’ll check the crank sprocket. Btw I degreased the front of the engine and used a lot of brake cleaner also so who knows if that might’ve messed up the crank sensor.