DMPesso

I’m going to rent the ball joint kit from AutoZone but I read somewhere I need an adapter to press out the knuckle bushings? Does anyone know which one it is or if the kit AutoZone gives you would come with that?

Thanks in advance

frankymenz

I replaced the rear wheel lower knuckle bushing, left and right, on my 2000 Avalon. Very similar if you’re doing the lower knuckle bushing on each of the rear wheels. I used a sharp knife and cut off the rubber outer lip on the inner side of the bushing and knocked the bushing out with a hammer, the old bushing was actually a bit loose in the knuckle and cutting off the outer lip allowed it to be driven out easily. I used a ball joint press to press in the new dorman bushings which came with aluminum adapters to assist installation, I was able to clean out the knuckle with some fine grit sandpaper, lube the knuckle and bushing with silicone brake lube and press the bushing in, it took a few tries on the 1st side but once I figured it out the 2nd side was much easier. I’m talking about the very bottom bushing on the knuckle where a single arm runs forward to a mounting location at the front of each rear wheel well. Hope his helps.

DMPesso

thanks for the info. That’s actually what we did to take out the steering rack bushings, drill away the edges and it came out pretty easy. So you didn’t need any type of adapter the standard ball joint press was good enough ?

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

It’s been a long time but I remember getting out the old ones easily but needing to buy this to get the new ones on. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

frankymenz

I have an OTC ball joint press, similar to the one lexo98 posted a link for, mine is older and has less adapters than that one does. I found the trick for me was to use sandpaper to clean the knuckle bore that the bushing presses into, I used silicon brake lube, won’t harm the rubber bushings that way. I didn’t use any adapters, I put a flat metal washer, a big one, over the open end of the knuckle, to keep the c clamp centered, then pressed against the metal center of the replacement bushing with the c clamps forcing screw, use the lube generously because you must get the oversized rubber edge of the new bushing started and then pressed through the knuckle, once I got the bushing about 90% in, I removed the c clamp and washer, then gave the new bushing a few gentle taps with the hammer to finish the installation, the problem was the c clamp kept getting cocked and popping off the bushing, I did it alone on my back in my garage and eventually I got it. I had to make sure I oriented the replacement bushing correctly too, it seems that there are 2 spaces open on the bushing, I oriented then identical to the old ones. I used a closed end hand wrench, not a pneumatic air tool on the c clamp. It was a bit like a monkey and a football, if you’re familiar with the expression, I’m keeping it G rated, lol.

DMPesso

lol damn. Seems like I’ll be good with the kit I borrow from autozone. If mine was squeaking chances are it’s bad right? Because I got rid of the squeaking by lubing it and I’m only doing this in hopes it will solve my rear alignment issue. Otherwise I don’t need to do it

frankymenz

Mine were squeaking too, funny it did it more after raining and drying out, I did the same with spray lube, WD40 as I recall, that’s how I ruled out what it was or was not. I’m from Rochester, now I live in Florida. I see you’re Brooklyn? Is your cars under body fairly clean?? I don’t miss working on all the northern vehicles, I’m a tech for a large fleet, now I hardly ever use a torch anymore, many coworkers have never used a torch, which I found crazy.

frankymenz

Mine also didn’t affect the alignment much, as I recall. Maybe a bit of a clunk on takeoff sometimes, they had a bit of play in the old ones, New one was quiet on both sides.

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

I also remember using sand paper then living with motor oil

DMPesso

yea it’s clean for a NY car, the previous owner kept it mint. I actually used a grease with some good grease. Completely god rid of the squeak and it’s been over a year. Spraying it never worked you have to inject the grease inside. I figured a loose knuckle bushing would throw out alignment. Couldn’t think of anything else it could be in the rear. Already changed the toe arms and upper control arms.

DMPesso

What do you mean?

frankymenz

Worn knuckle bushings on a driven axle, like the GS, May have more affect on alignment than on a trailing axle like in the Avalon or ES350.

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

sorry misspell. After I took out the old bushing I sanded the carrier and lubed with oil and the bushing went in easier

DMPesso

Ah ok. I’m sure it’s easy to get in if it’s lubed up. Can’t be much harder then the rack bushings to press in right?

DMPesso

thanks. I’m definitely going to do them then. I’m sure they’re shot if they were squeaking and it will help tighten up the rear.