Loose radiator hose caused overheat
12-10-22, 01:27 AM
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
This is what I am afraid of.
I had a Datsun 280Z overheated. The shop machined down the head and replaced the gasket, but 10K miles later it leaked again.
The engine in thei GS300 had only 105K miles. Everything was fine until there was a small leak in the radiator and I replaced it with a DENSO. I replaced radiators in other cars before, no problem. This time I watched this guy ANGELFIXIT's Youtube and added a bead of RTV to the necks of the radiator.
In the first test run, the lower hose was knocked out, engine overheated briefly. I shut it down, reclamped and refilled.. Engine ran fine. My wife drove it on freeway, overheated, engine was knocking hard. She towed it home. Upper hose was knocked out. the neck was clean, no more RTV left. I reclamped it with the OEM clamp added another worm screw clamp and refilled. Engine ran fine.
She drove it , overheated and towed home again. I fixed it again, but this time engine shakes hard, runs rough, coolant got into oil, white smoke exhaust.
This engine cooling system require no burping. I replaced the coolant before. Just fill radiator and top up.
Used 2JGGE costs about $2,000 in ebay plus may be $1,500 labor. There is no warranty it has not been overheated before. .
Damn unlucky and unexplainable. I am so mad..
I had a Datsun 280Z overheated. The shop machined down the head and replaced the gasket, but 10K miles later it leaked again.
The engine in thei GS300 had only 105K miles. Everything was fine until there was a small leak in the radiator and I replaced it with a DENSO. I replaced radiators in other cars before, no problem. This time I watched this guy ANGELFIXIT's Youtube and added a bead of RTV to the necks of the radiator.
In the first test run, the lower hose was knocked out, engine overheated briefly. I shut it down, reclamped and refilled.. Engine ran fine. My wife drove it on freeway, overheated, engine was knocking hard. She towed it home. Upper hose was knocked out. the neck was clean, no more RTV left. I reclamped it with the OEM clamp added another worm screw clamp and refilled. Engine ran fine.
She drove it , overheated and towed home again. I fixed it again, but this time engine shakes hard, runs rough, coolant got into oil, white smoke exhaust.
This engine cooling system require no burping. I replaced the coolant before. Just fill radiator and top up.
Used 2JGGE costs about $2,000 in ebay plus may be $1,500 labor. There is no warranty it has not been overheated before. .
Damn unlucky and unexplainable. I am so mad..
Last edited by CPTSOLO; 12-10-22 at 01:35 AM.
12-10-22, 12:55 PM
#18
Driver
Thread Starter
I don;t need this car right now, so I will take time to pull the head and replace the gasket. Will see how it runs.
If the engine has more problem, will have a shop swap in an used engine, hopefully it's a good engine.
If the engine has more problem, will have a shop swap in an used engine, hopefully it's a good engine.
12-10-22, 03:22 PM
#19
This is what I am afraid of.
I had a Datsun 280Z overheated. The shop machined down the head and replaced the gasket, but 10K miles later it leaked again.
The engine in thei GS300 had only 105K miles. Everything was fine until there was a small leak in the radiator and I replaced it with a DENSO. I replaced radiators in other cars before, no problem. This time I watched this guy ANGELFIXIT's Youtube and added a bead of RTV to the necks of the radiator.
In the first test run, the lower hose was knocked out, engine overheated briefly. I shut it down, reclamped and refilled.. Engine ran fine. My wife drove it on freeway, overheated, engine was knocking hard. She towed it home. Upper hose was knocked out. the neck was clean, no more RTV left. I reclamped it with the OEM clamp added another worm screw clamp and refilled. Engine ran fine.
She drove it , overheated and towed home again. I fixed it again, but this time engine shakes hard, runs rough, coolant got into oil, white smoke exhaust.
This engine cooling system require no burping. I replaced the coolant before. Just fill radiator and top up.
Used 2JGGE costs about $2,000 in ebay plus may be $1,500 labor. There is no warranty it has not been overheated before. .
Damn unlucky and unexplainable. I am so mad..
I had a Datsun 280Z overheated. The shop machined down the head and replaced the gasket, but 10K miles later it leaked again.
The engine in thei GS300 had only 105K miles. Everything was fine until there was a small leak in the radiator and I replaced it with a DENSO. I replaced radiators in other cars before, no problem. This time I watched this guy ANGELFIXIT's Youtube and added a bead of RTV to the necks of the radiator.
In the first test run, the lower hose was knocked out, engine overheated briefly. I shut it down, reclamped and refilled.. Engine ran fine. My wife drove it on freeway, overheated, engine was knocking hard. She towed it home. Upper hose was knocked out. the neck was clean, no more RTV left. I reclamped it with the OEM clamp added another worm screw clamp and refilled. Engine ran fine.
She drove it , overheated and towed home again. I fixed it again, but this time engine shakes hard, runs rough, coolant got into oil, white smoke exhaust.
This engine cooling system require no burping. I replaced the coolant before. Just fill radiator and top up.
Used 2JGGE costs about $2,000 in ebay plus may be $1,500 labor. There is no warranty it has not been overheated before. .
Damn unlucky and unexplainable. I am so mad..
12-10-22, 06:28 PM
#20
You are supposed to remove the radiator cap and let it idle WHILE COLD so all the air can get out after doing a major job such as a radiator or water pump, but for smaller amounts of air the cooling system auto-bleeds itself.
12-11-22, 09:47 AM
#21
Driver
Thread Starter
This is my major screw up. The compressed air has enough force to blow out the hose.
Fix It Angle's video di have the last section when he ran the engine and bled all air out of the radiator.
Damn amateur mistake.
Last edited by CPTSOLO; 12-11-22 at 10:20 AM.
12-12-22, 12:21 PM
#22
Driver
Thread Starter
A shop quoted $1500 labor to swap in an engine + 2JZGE engine sold in eBay is listing for $2000-2500, allegedly with 60K miles, but have no ideas what they are.
Mobile mechanic quoted $1800 parts and labor with OEM gasket, the rest of seals and bolts are after market. 1 day to remove and 2 days to install. He said have to remove both the head and engine block for machine shop to match mating surfaces. Otherwise it will leak again. He sounds like a serious guy, guarantees 2 years 15K miles.
I don't have equipment to pull the cylinder block. Looks like this job is way above my level of skills, equipment and tools. So $3500 to swap engine vs $1800 to rebuild. Will have to think about it.
Mobile mechanic quoted $1800 parts and labor with OEM gasket, the rest of seals and bolts are after market. 1 day to remove and 2 days to install. He said have to remove both the head and engine block for machine shop to match mating surfaces. Otherwise it will leak again. He sounds like a serious guy, guarantees 2 years 15K miles.
I don't have equipment to pull the cylinder block. Looks like this job is way above my level of skills, equipment and tools. So $3500 to swap engine vs $1800 to rebuild. Will have to think about it.
Last edited by CPTSOLO; 12-12-22 at 01:10 PM.
12-13-22, 02:43 PM
#23
Driver
Thread Starter
A mechanic came by to check the engine. It was hard to start. Lots sof bubbling in the radiator, coolant smells of gas, Cyls 3,4 and 5 misfire.
He said engine overheat, head cracked, Gas is pumped from combustion chamber into the coolant lines, escaping out of the radiator.
He said no way to salvage the engine, should swap in an used one with low mileage, He will hunt for one, $750 labor, which is lower than other local shops.
Damn, an expensive mistake. Mea culpa..
He said engine overheat, head cracked, Gas is pumped from combustion chamber into the coolant lines, escaping out of the radiator.
He said no way to salvage the engine, should swap in an used one with low mileage, He will hunt for one, $750 labor, which is lower than other local shops.
Damn, an expensive mistake. Mea culpa..
Last edited by CPTSOLO; 12-13-22 at 02:59 PM.
12-13-22, 02:49 PM
#24
Lexus Fanatic
The head may be cracked or maybe not it is impossible to diagnose this without removing the head and having it tested. I repaired an engine earlier this year with identical symptoms, head was not cracked neither was the block. Blown head gasket nothing else.
12-13-22, 02:57 PM
#25
Driver
Thread Starter
Oil was all burned out. Coolant is also in the oil
How does oil and gas get into the coolant if the head is not cracked?
How does oil and gas get into the coolant if the head is not cracked?
12-13-22, 03:11 PM
#26
Lexus Fanatic
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QLex300 (12-14-22)
12-13-22, 03:13 PM
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
Will ask the guy to pull the head and test it.
I am hoping to get away with a small bill.
Thanks for your suggestions.
12-14-22, 09:45 AM
#28
Driver
Thread Starter
The guy said labor cost $500-700 to pull the head plus the machine shop fees, while he charges $750 to install used engine. Other shops quoted $1500- to 2000 to install used engine, so he's the best option. He seems an honest, reliable guy.
He said he will shop for an engine matching the VIN with a service history, so may be he can find a decent engine.
I am very disappointed in my carelessness that destroyed a good engine. Damn.
He said he will shop for an engine matching the VIN with a service history, so may be he can find a decent engine.
I am very disappointed in my carelessness that destroyed a good engine. Damn.
12-14-22, 11:02 AM
#29
A mechanic came by to check the engine. It was hard to start. Lots sof bubbling in the radiator, coolant smells of gas, Cyls 3,4 and 5 misfire.
He said engine overheat, head cracked, Gas is pumped from combustion chamber into the coolant lines, escaping out of the radiator.
He said no way to salvage the engine, should swap in an used one with low mileage, He will hunt for one, $750 labor, which is lower than other local shops.
Damn, an expensive mistake. Mea culpa..
He said engine overheat, head cracked, Gas is pumped from combustion chamber into the coolant lines, escaping out of the radiator.
He said no way to salvage the engine, should swap in an used one with low mileage, He will hunt for one, $750 labor, which is lower than other local shops.
Damn, an expensive mistake. Mea culpa..
I attached PDFs of the complete cylinder head section as well as the radiator and coolant replacement sections for reference.
12-14-22, 12:04 PM
#30
Driver
Thread Starter
CheezMonky
Thanks for uploading the manual. Have been searching all over for them. They are precious..
Just talked to a local machine shop, Q and E of Anaheim, CA.
He said 2JZGE engine is pretty stout, probably just blown head gasket, which is pretty common. Resurfacing is $85, vacuum test $95, complete valve job $220 with each valve $12 additional if damaged.
I feel so ****ty damaging this good engine, now facing a big bill for swapping it. So I will at least atone myself by doing some hard work, removing the head and bringing it to the machine shop. He will check to see how far gone it is, probably not much. If lucky I will put it back with a new gasket. If it's too far gone, will tow the car to the shop.
It should take only a few hours, should not cost $500-700 for this mech to remove it. Now I am thinking he's full of ****, trying to steal my good engine.
Thanks for all your help and encouragement. I feel a lot better now that there is a possible solution that I can try.
.
Thanks for uploading the manual. Have been searching all over for them. They are precious..
Just talked to a local machine shop, Q and E of Anaheim, CA.
He said 2JZGE engine is pretty stout, probably just blown head gasket, which is pretty common. Resurfacing is $85, vacuum test $95, complete valve job $220 with each valve $12 additional if damaged.
I feel so ****ty damaging this good engine, now facing a big bill for swapping it. So I will at least atone myself by doing some hard work, removing the head and bringing it to the machine shop. He will check to see how far gone it is, probably not much. If lucky I will put it back with a new gasket. If it's too far gone, will tow the car to the shop.
It should take only a few hours, should not cost $500-700 for this mech to remove it. Now I am thinking he's full of ****, trying to steal my good engine.
Thanks for all your help and encouragement. I feel a lot better now that there is a possible solution that I can try.
.
I'm not sure how he can be so sure. If it wasn't run extensively overheated, your head could be totally fine. I certainly doesn't mean the block is definitely damaged... it's really not a huge deal to pull it off yourself to have a look and post pictures of.
I attached PDFs of the complete cylinder head section as well as the radiator and coolant replacement sections for reference.
I attached PDFs of the complete cylinder head section as well as the radiator and coolant replacement sections for reference.