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Thanks for uploading the manual. Have been searching all over for them. They are precious..
yeah, tell me about it. Cost me like $250 but has been very helpful.
Originally Posted by CPTSOLO
It should take only a few hours, should not cost $500-700 for this mech to remove it. Now I am thinking he's full of ****, trying to steal my good engine.
I don't think he's trying to rip you off. Swapping the engine with a known-good engine would probably be the most effective solution, it eliminates lots of variables that could tank a repair attempt. There is easily $750 worth of labor swapping an engine, I'm just not so sure it needs it.
before I junk this engine, will try to pull the cylinder head and measure the warpage to see if the engine is till serviceable:
Head max warpage 0.10 mm or 0.0039 inch
Cylinder block max warpage 0.07 mm or 0.0028 inch
Found a racer and aero engineer who will remove the head and have it tested,, possible resurface and valve job. If the warpage is bad, we will source an used engine and install it.
Would be an interesting project for me. I have Lexus service manual, step by step removal and reinstallation. Just need a guy with more tools and experiences so I won't break anything. He charges a very reasonable fee which I would give him bonus for good work.
The engineer removed cylinder head, took 5 hours, no power tools, all hand tools. There is no room for power tools in most places besides the valve cover and head bolts. He had to use long extensions with multiple swivel joints in a few places with the intake manifold.
He said anytime radiator is replaced, thermostat should be replaced as well as it shoots a tiny spray of coolant; any debris would jam it and cause overheat. Also silicone RTV should not be used anywhere in the engine, not even the valve cover gasket, as it gets everywhere and cause problems. So the silicone RTV I put on the radiator hoses most likely clogged up and jammed the thermostat. As the pump ran against a closed thermostat, pressure blew out the hoses right before it. He found RTV on the valve cover gasket even though the engine has never been opened up, still has the original factory plugs. Hopefully the glue is not clogging up the radiator and the heater core. It was an expensive mistake to follow procedures by this guy Fix It Angel in Youtube.
The guy races and organizes drifts, has been rebuilding many engines, like over 40, for racers, drifters, high-performance mods, He knew the 2ZZGE engine well, said it's a very strong engine. His procedure is simpler, not taking apart front exhaust pipe and O2 sensors, not completely removing the fuel rail wire harness, only tying them out of the way to clear the head. There were a lot of hoses and connectors to disconnect.
The head and piston tops looked clean and shiny, no burned carbon anywhere. Gasket was broken in the thin areas between cyl 3 4 5. He said it's typical of overheated 2JZ. The head and block should be fine. Unlike other engines, the 2JZGE is a very strong engine, would have to be driven at red line without coolant over a period of time to warp anything. He said this engine should last a few hundred thousand miles more..
The head will be delivered to a local machine shop for calibration, resurfacing, may be a valve job. He gave me a list of parts to buy while waiting for the head to come back. Will replace timing belt, water pump, thermostat, plugs. Will flush the radiator a few times to make sure the RTV is eliminated.
He's pleasant to work with, giving me a lot of good infos about engines. His price is within range. I am glad I opened up the engine instead of just swapping blindly. .
Last edited by CPTSOLO; 12-18-22 at 10:29 AM.
Reason: Add pics cylinder head
Just to let you know, FIPG or rtv is in fact used on the 2jz. The two front cam caps use FIPG or rtv under them and also some on the top of the same caps in the valley, where they meet the valve cover mating surface. If your mechanic doesn't do it, you'll be leaking oil in no time.
Maybe something was lost in the translation, RTV is of course applied at the factory. The mechanic's comment about the engine being strong is true but it doesn't matter how strong the engine is, it can't survive for long with an oil coolant mix in the crankcase. But I've stressed this point before you've chosen to ignore it.
That engine is somewhat poorly maintained, or has been running low quality oil, or both.
I am aware black auto grade high temp RTV is used at the mating surfaces between the valve cover, cyl head and front timing chain cover to prevent oil leaks.
In this case the clear house hold RTV was used on the radiator's interface with the hoses. It was melted and washed clean of the mating surfaces.
The car was running normally for a couple weeks, then suddenly overheated and blew out the hoses. So the flow of coolant was blocked and the thermostat is the only device that can block it. Will remove the thermostat and check for blockage.
I need a Lexus reassembly manual to tell this mech to do it right.
CheezMOnky, can you send me the manual pages for head reassembly to make sure this mech do it right?
Will buy you beers if we ever meet.
Originally Posted by SpectraBlu
Just to let you know, FIPG or rtv is in fact used on the 2jz. The two front cam caps use FIPG or rtv under them and also some on the top of the same caps in the valley, where they meet the valve cover mating surface. If your mechanic doesn't do it, you'll be leaking oil in no time.
The car is rarely driven and has regular maintenance.
What makes you say it was poorly maintained or used bad oil?
Do the valve lobes look OK?
Pistons' tops of cyl 3 4 5 had some burn carbon. The other piston look clean,. Will take pics of them.
Looks like the gasket was blown out on the exhaust side along cyl 3 4 and 5..
Originally Posted by LeX2K
Maybe something was lost in the translation, RTV is of course applied at the factory. The mechanic's comment about the engine being strong is true but it doesn't matter how strong the engine is, it can't survive for long with an oil coolant mix in the crankcase. But I've stressed this point before you've chosen to ignore it.
That engine is somewhat poorly maintained, or has been running low quality oil, or both.
The machine shop should check the head's integrity by seeing if it is warped or cracked. If warped or cracked toss it out!
Valve seats should be ground and lapped (valve job)
Resurfacing should be very minimal.
New valve stem seals and a complete valve adjustment.
Warning, do not by an aftermarket head gasket, other gaskets ok but the head gasket should come from Toyota.
Buy a 2 day subscription to TIS https://techinfo.toyota.com/
Rock Auto sells head gasket kit with all gaskets and seals. Wonder if they are any good?
Like what was already said, OEM head gasket and you need to get a FSM online or a physical copy. All the info your mechanic might not realize is in there, like the head bolts are not reusable, head bolt tightening sequence, and cam cap sequence so he doesn't snap your cams in half.
Maybe I missed it but, why was there RTV on your coolant hoses?
The manual does call for FIPG to be used on the camshaft bearing caps and the head covers.
I've attached a PDF of the specs for the valves, head, head bolts, etc. The manual does state you can reuse the head bolts if they are in spec.
As for gaskets to use, OEM will probably be best.That being said, I've been used aftermarket head gaskets from RockAuto on several vehicles and have not had problems.
12-14-22, 12:27 PM
