lastguy

as hard to see when using floor jack, it is a bit offset or paved ground a bit damaged so one or two wheels sit on soil caused offset during jack up. the loosed left rubber pad split off cause jack hit oil pan.
see borrowed photo, the rear part of pan squished, would be the disc.
engine can start, it seems no new leak. any other side effect?

SpectraBlu

iTrader: (1)

That's your oil pick up....pretty bad if it's damaged.

lastguy

so oil can't cycle normally? I need to change both the pan and this part? any way I can judge from temperature or OBCD scan?
site feeling is worse than picture shown.
thx

SpectraBlu

iTrader: (1)

The mesh screen I circled in blue is where oil gets sucked up from the pan and circulated through the engine.It's hard to tell from your pictures how dented it is. If the pan is pushed up against that screen, it'll restrict or block the oil. I have no idea if you could see anything with ob2 scanner...maybe oil pressure if the scanner reads that. If it were me, I'd drop the pan, check the strainer/pick up and replace pan if necessary.

lastguy

Thanks! "The mesh screen I circled in blue" I didn't see that.
I see two youtube video, one did the job after TA removed, the other is unclear seems need remove motor mount. Any people know any proper proper steps? 05 GS300.

SpectraBlu

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to add the picture lol

lastguy

SpectraBlu thanks I did see the filter from another video which uses hoister the hang up engine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzfFzJKJTTI#t=2m39s
anybody knows where is oil pressure sensor, part# would be 89448-51010, but lexus parts store shows for IS300 only.
Not sure OBD or something can check pressure and what is normal range, but no warning light so I might stop here

KyleH

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to lift the engine to change the pan. I've done it, having suffered a similar jack mis-hap. It's slow going to get the bolts near the cross-member, but it can be done. Nobody can know for sure what if any damage will come. Definitely safer to change if you're able.

lastguy

KyleH, would you mind to give more details? like remove the triangle frame or loose cross member or rear engine mount? do you use small wrench or extension rod to get touch the 10mm screw? I tried to insert my hands only half way done, after the gap there seems to be a little more space.
No oil pressure light but I'm a bit afraid the S shape oil suck pipe be cracked on top flange part, a short 20miles drive seems ok, my wife said 1st start has water bubble sound, but as I also changed ATF and differential fluid it might or might not be oil related.

KyleH

iTrader: (1)

Mine's is a GTE, but I think the oil pan is the same. I don't remember having to remove the triangular brace down there. I believe it was slow going, but I used a regular 10mm (I think) wrench to get at the bolts that were at the back near the crossmember. I can't remember if I could fit the gear wrench in there or not. But I was surprised (and happy) to find I could access them all without having to lift the engine etc. Sorry I'm not more help... don't have any pictures and it's been a couple years.

lastguy

Thanks KyleH! A summary below incase other people needed. Bay area get heavy rain so I postpone my work.
I watched all youtube videos again. They all jack up engine by loose motor mount (front L/R even rear under AT, for L/R either remove bolts inside Crossmember or from top), jack up point is either at the front of oil pan or under oil pan. Remove "A" frame helps also not a bug deal.
A potential issue is when people jack up oil pan or its front edge for mounting, the effect is over tighten the pan, thus when jack is removed whether the RTV can come back to refill the gaps properly. Also when jack up at the front edge of the pan, be careful the floor jack shall not shift or else there might be a danger of engine drop. My original damage came from jack shift from crossmember to oil pan due to a rubber pad fly away from the jack pad.