glacier300

2006 GS 300 with 142k miles.

Car was parked with a near full tank of gas and unable to start 5 days later. Initially I thought it was a starter issue, so I let it sit until I could get around to it. The car sat for 4 months- since then the battery died.

So to begin diagnosing, I started by replacing the battery. Then I moved to it being a fuel issue. I removed the engine cover and side panels to access the intake manifold. I removed a vacc line nearest the throttle body and shot carb cleaner white attempting to start it. Still no luck.

I removed the rear seats to get to the fuel pump. I removed the fuel pump access cover to get a good audible sound from it. Put the car in accessory, and the pump primes per cycle. I’m sure the pump relay is intact if the pump is able to cycle on and prime.

At this point, I’m thinking it’s not a fuel sending issue UNLESS it’s a fuel pressure issue. But if it was a pressure issue, I would still be able to turn the car over with carb cleaner; at the very least.

I am convinced it isn’t an issue with fuel so I begin to remove the starter thinking perhaps it’s spinning and not making contact with the drive plate- the whirring it louder than I’ve noticed before unless I’m just so annoyed with the car and everything seems exaggerated.

I got the starter out and bench tested it at home. Now, I’m pissed off because the starter seems to be working and firing off. Keep in mind, this is all freely with no force against a drive plate. I’m still not ruling out that it’s a weak or grinding solenoid within the starter causing it to lose force when trying to turn the plate.


I’m out of ideas. But I do intend to check my chassis grounds, check all my electrical connections. Maybe move onto to testing for fuel pressure then diagnosing any spark issues with the plugs.

What I’ve done so far, in order of occurrence-
-Initial attempts to start car
-Replaced battery
-Removed engine covers
-Removed Vacc line closest to the TB
-Carb cleaner directly into intake tract during start up
-Removed rear seat
-Removed fuel pump access cover to hear fuel pump prime
-Checked fuel pump relay in engine bay
-Removed Starter
-Bench tested Starter (starter currently uninstalled from car, as this was my most recent move)



What do you guys think? Could it be compression? Could it be fuel pressure? Could it be voltage?

Hell, IT COULD BE ANYTHING. And I’m about to scrap this car. I’ve uploaded videos for reference.

glacier300

Continuation ——-

glacier300

Continuation again

glacier300

Update

Reinstalled the starter. The harmonic balancer is rotating with the starter- verified that it is firing out and spinning the drive plate

Removed a few grounds and cleaned their surfaces throughout. Resecured and commenced attempting to start.

Still no luck. Same symptoms of wanting to turnover but not able to.



Although I hear the fuel pump priming and fuel running along the driver side frame underside. It could be losing pressure or simply not getting enough pressure.

I’m going to test for pressure next then begin the spark diagnosing if the pressure checks out.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like fuel pressure issue or air blockage! Maybe not enough fuel or air is entering the engine. It is possible that the engine is loaded up with carbon buildup, choking the engine, making it difficult to turn over. Only the 2006 GS300 (US Market) has poorly designed direct injection. Have you ever had the engine rebuilt by lexus through the campaign? I say this because as the engine is turning over the compression sounds a bit off. Almost like you have one or two cylinders with no compression.

You can do a head cleaning, to where you remove the upper and lower intake manifolds and with solvents and long brushes scrub down the vavles and opening. I would also clean the throttle body, maybe that is sticking. Even if the carbon cleaning isnt your issues, its still a good idea to clean them as it will greatly improve gas and performance of the engine. Its not to difficult to remove both intake manifolds there are videos that show how

glacier300

thank you for giving my thread a read and I appreciate your input. I know people’s time is valuable these days, so thank you.

I was going to check for proper fuel pressure next and spark thereafter. I thought about changing the FPR and that would entail remove the plenum and the manifold itself; so upon doing that and if I do go that route, I’ll do what you advised and scrub down the valves and ports. Hell….. should I just do it anyway?

I did have friends of mine say that the compression sounds off via video recording, but unless my timing is off, I’m trying my best not to believe the noise of no compression.

glacier300

^^^^ sorry, and no I did not have any rebuild on the motor. I don’t know the history of the car as I bought it from an old coworker of mine. So I’m not entirely sure if he fulfilled any warranty work or any work for that matter.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt spend money on any guessing, all that will do is throw you down a money pit. Have a good mechanic diagnose the issue, or take it to the dealer and pay for 1 hours of diagnosis. I suggested to clean the intake head ports because that only cost chemicals, and maybe best to replace the intake rubber gaskets as there not expensive. Because eventually the car will need that cleaning done. Just make sure to undo the battery terminal anytime you remove engine plugs, as these engines will throw random crazy codes if you do not.

There is a fuel pressure sensor located in the back of the intake manifold. When those go bad, usually the radiator fans kick on full blast when cranking the engine over. When the sensor goes bad, it shorts out the 5 volt reference in the ecu turning on weird stuff like the fans, sometimes killing the power to the starter. You can try disconnecting that plug and replugging it back in to see if it works or not.

glacier300

As an update-
I warrantied the battery again, and reinstalled. I removed intake tract, cleaned out the air filter, cleaned the intake hose itself from gunk dry debris build up, cleaned the MAF with brake clean, removed TB and metal meshing, cleaned it out with break clean as well. Cleaned what I could reach into the plenum. Since I had all that off- I pulled the coil plugs and looked inside the tunnels.

I tested for fuel pressure and got good and constant readings. Rechecked all my fuses. Rechecked all connectors and clips.

Added some fuel injector cleaning to my tank, which at this point is 3/4 tank full of 14 month old gasoline.

Attempted to crank and start. See video for reference.



PS I did not to go as far as removed the intake manifold stack because I know a symptom of a bad FP sensor is the fans going haywire.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

So you tried cranking the car with carb cleaner, and the car didnt fire nor cough at all? You really need a good scan tool to test sensors. Without a good scan tool all your doing is guessing

It sounds like the cars not getting spark. You can remove 1 coil pack and 1 spark plug and ground the end of the plug to engine ground. You should be able to see the spark plug tip zap as the cars engine is turning over. If theres not spark or no cough from the engine. Its possible a crank sensor or cam shaft senser is bad but the tachometer is moving when cranking so the crank sensors more likely is ok.

Take it to the dealer and pay for 1 hours worth of diagnosis or see if toyota dealer will work on it. Or a good ind mechanic

glacier300

March 17 update

Moving onto spark

I did passenger side, cylinders 1,3,5 and all 3 coil packs checked out; moved onto the driver side 2,4,6…. All emitting and the producing current. So I know the signal with plug and harness related to each pack is good. And the packs themselves are good

glacier300

Photo updates

glacier300

A good scan tool will do what? I’ve read the live data via my blue point microscan- I’m getting crank input readings and like you mentioned, my tach is registering and my balancer is making rotations.

there is and will be no info to pull off the ecu related to diagnostics because the car won’t even turnover you learn or relearn any parameters

glacier300

I’ll be more than likely moving onto checking the spark plugs themselves next as the coil packs have all yielded positive results.

glacier300

Oh and an update video as of Saturday. Last reply before it seems like I’m spamming my own f’n thread