07 GS 350 AWD Code P2757 & Burning Oil
02-20-24, 09:39 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
07 GS 350 AWD Code P2757 & Burning Oil
I've had my 07 GS350 w/ 175k Miles for about 6-7 months and its been great! of course Its been burning a little bit of 5w30 engine oil, about a quart every 500-600 miles. I used ATS 505 CRO to try and clean up the carbon build up to see if that would help, will check back on that soon. My concern and main reason for making this post Is I have code P2757 and from what I've googled It shows as a Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid. Is that correct? I'm a broke college kid, what would be the best way to go about getting this done and is it something I could replace myself? Also If you have any advice about the oil burn Id love that as well, heard its just because of bad direct injection problems that Lexus didn't do a good job checking before releasing these cars.
Any help or advice Is much appreciated. Thanks.
Any help or advice Is much appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by Recee23; 02-20-24 at 09:40 AM. Reason: fix error
02-20-24, 10:28 AM
#2
First off, a quart every 500 miles is not “using a little oil.” That’s hemorrhaging and will poison the cats soon if it has not. Just be aware. More on that below.
Your trans code is saying the solenoid valve that controls the Torque converter is malfunctioning. You can open the bottom of the trans and replace it. Not a DIY job unless you are relatively handy. Here’s a way to try to fix it, and has in fact worked for me on fixing similar issues on multiple cars:
- Put a few ounces of SeaFoam or Chemtool B-12 in the tranny. Drive it a few days (this cleans the metal surfaces of varnishes).
- Swap out the fluid for a fresh fill. I would use MaxLife in this car, as good or actually better than WS IME.
- Add 9 oz of Lubegard red to the fill. This will continue cleaning less aggressively, and also re-condition seals.
This all will cost about $100 in materials + your time. It has a reasonable chance of correcting the sticking/lazy solenoid but also servicing the whole transmission, too. You need to do this anyway as trans maintenance; give it a shot before attacking the solenoid directly.
These cars have an outright negligent piston ring design. $5k to re-ring it is the typical answer. To minimize the oil use you can make sure the PCV valve is not clogged and use a more robust grade oil. Avoid hi-speed highway runs (peak consumption happens then). A more robust grade oil would mean a thicker 10w-30 (like Mobil 1 High Mileage), a “Euro” 5w-30, or a 10w-40. For reference, any ‘Energy Conserving’ 5w-30 (look inside the “donut” certification on the bottle for those words) is much closer to a 20 weight than a 40 weight in reality. Avoid any ‘energy conserving’ oil.
Your trans code is saying the solenoid valve that controls the Torque converter is malfunctioning. You can open the bottom of the trans and replace it. Not a DIY job unless you are relatively handy. Here’s a way to try to fix it, and has in fact worked for me on fixing similar issues on multiple cars:
- Put a few ounces of SeaFoam or Chemtool B-12 in the tranny. Drive it a few days (this cleans the metal surfaces of varnishes).
- Swap out the fluid for a fresh fill. I would use MaxLife in this car, as good or actually better than WS IME.
- Add 9 oz of Lubegard red to the fill. This will continue cleaning less aggressively, and also re-condition seals.
This all will cost about $100 in materials + your time. It has a reasonable chance of correcting the sticking/lazy solenoid but also servicing the whole transmission, too. You need to do this anyway as trans maintenance; give it a shot before attacking the solenoid directly.
These cars have an outright negligent piston ring design. $5k to re-ring it is the typical answer. To minimize the oil use you can make sure the PCV valve is not clogged and use a more robust grade oil. Avoid hi-speed highway runs (peak consumption happens then). A more robust grade oil would mean a thicker 10w-30 (like Mobil 1 High Mileage), a “Euro” 5w-30, or a 10w-40. For reference, any ‘Energy Conserving’ 5w-30 (look inside the “donut” certification on the bottle for those words) is much closer to a 20 weight than a 40 weight in reality. Avoid any ‘energy conserving’ oil.
02-20-24, 11:36 AM
#3
When you say your burning oil, have you checked the engine to see if it is not leaking. Our Lexus GS like to leak, also how often do you replace the oil? I like to go to 3,000 miles, ive been using castrol gtx mineral and oem filter. I have no issue with burning oil. I think im at 240k miles on the speedo, maybe more.
As for the transmission! Have you ever change the transmission fluid with toyota WS fluid? If not I would start with that first and see if it clears up your issue.
As for the transmission! Have you ever change the transmission fluid with toyota WS fluid? If not I would start with that first and see if it clears up your issue.
02-20-24, 12:43 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
When you say your burning oil, have you checked the engine to see if it is not leaking. Our Lexus GS like to leak, also how often do you replace the oil? I like to go to 3,000 miles, ive been using castrol gtx mineral and oem filter. I have no issue with burning oil. I think im at 240k miles on the speedo, maybe more.
As for the transmission! Have you ever change the transmission fluid with toyota WS fluid? If not I would start with that first and see if it clears up your issue.
As for the transmission! Have you ever change the transmission fluid with toyota WS fluid? If not I would start with that first and see if it clears up your issue.
02-20-24, 12:46 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
When I first got the car there wasnt a background on how the transmission oil was doing so I got it changed out at Jiffy Lube with new transmission oil, so just a few months ago I did that.
And yes my check engine for the Cat Is on as well. P0430
We did change the PCV valve as well.
Im not sure if this makes a difference, but I cleared the check engine for the cat codes and the p2757 and drove around at work at dominos for about 4 hours and did about 50 miles of driving in that time, staying under 50mph or so. Never had the check engine come back on during that time, leaving work I had a 40 mile drive home on the highway at 80mph and within about 5-8 mins of driving on the highway my check engine came on for JUST the p0430 cat code. Is it only burning enough oil to turn the cat code on at high speeds? I do a lot of driving on the highway commuting to college and different things and that's probably why I burn so much oil. But the fact the Trans code didn't turn on right away was a little surprising to me. I also feel like i haven't felt any BIG power losses either.
And yes my check engine for the Cat Is on as well. P0430
We did change the PCV valve as well.
Im not sure if this makes a difference, but I cleared the check engine for the cat codes and the p2757 and drove around at work at dominos for about 4 hours and did about 50 miles of driving in that time, staying under 50mph or so. Never had the check engine come back on during that time, leaving work I had a 40 mile drive home on the highway at 80mph and within about 5-8 mins of driving on the highway my check engine came on for JUST the p0430 cat code. Is it only burning enough oil to turn the cat code on at high speeds? I do a lot of driving on the highway commuting to college and different things and that's probably why I burn so much oil. But the fact the Trans code didn't turn on right away was a little surprising to me. I also feel like i haven't felt any BIG power losses either.
Last edited by Recee23; 02-20-24 at 12:56 PM. Reason: fix error
02-20-24, 12:58 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
First off, a quart every 500 miles is not “using a little oil.” That’s hemorrhaging and will poison the cats soon if it has not. Just be aware. More on that below.
These cars have an outright negligent piston ring design. $5k to re-ring it is the typical answer. To minimize the oil use you can make sure the PCV valve is not clogged and use a more robust grade oil. Avoid hi-speed highway runs (peak consumption happens then). A more robust grade oil would mean a thicker 10w-30 (like Mobil 1 High Mileage), a “Euro” 5w-30, or a 10w-40. For reference, any ‘Energy Conserving’ 5w-30 (look inside the “donut” certification on the bottle for those words) is much closer to a 20 weight than a 40 weight in reality. Avoid any ‘energy conserving’ oil.
These cars have an outright negligent piston ring design. $5k to re-ring it is the typical answer. To minimize the oil use you can make sure the PCV valve is not clogged and use a more robust grade oil. Avoid hi-speed highway runs (peak consumption happens then). A more robust grade oil would mean a thicker 10w-30 (like Mobil 1 High Mileage), a “Euro” 5w-30, or a 10w-40. For reference, any ‘Energy Conserving’ 5w-30 (look inside the “donut” certification on the bottle for those words) is much closer to a 20 weight than a 40 weight in reality. Avoid any ‘energy conserving’ oil.
Is using a thicker engine oil going to potentially hurt the car when I drive It faster or race car around so to say?
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02-20-24, 01:30 PM
#8
Old Mobil 1 10w30 HM was 3.5cSt thickness - this is as “thick” as a 30 weight could be. Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro - like is OE oil in Ferraris, Corvettes, etc. - 3.6cSt - a very, very light 40. No huge difference. All “Euro” 5w-30 have to be 3.5cSt - that is why they are a safe bet for protection. A 10w-40 will protect your engine better if you push it (and these cars are fun to push, I darn well know - first time I drove one I hit 125mph on the interstate - so easy and flawless!).
You need to ask them what ATF they used at Jiffy Lube. If they used the wrong fluid, that can be the problem. It would cause the torque converter plates to slip more than designed. You also need to verify the fill level is correct. This is often messed up because they do it with the car off - it has to be running to be measured and leveled. But a trans shop should know that. I hope.
Last edited by Oro; 02-20-24 at 01:38 PM.
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skur (02-20-24)
02-20-24, 04:36 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
First off, a quart every 500 miles is not “using a little oil.” That’s hemorrhaging and will poison the cats soon if it has not. Just be aware. More on that below.
Your trans code is saying the solenoid valve that controls the Torque converter is malfunctioning. You can open the bottom of the trans and replace it. Not a DIY job unless you are relatively handy. Here’s a way to try to fix it, and has in fact worked for me on fixing similar issues on multiple cars:
- Put a few ounces of SeaFoam or Chemtool B-12 in the tranny. Drive it a few days (this cleans the metal surfaces of varnishes).
- Swap out the fluid for a fresh fill. I would use MaxLife in this car, as good or actually better than WS IME.
- Add 9 oz of Lubegard red to the fill. This will continue cleaning less aggressively, and also re-condition seals.
This all will cost about $100 in materials + your time. It has a reasonable chance of correcting the sticking/lazy solenoid but also servicing the whole transmission, too. You need to do this anyway as trans maintenance; give it a shot before attacking the solenoid directly.
These cars have an outright negligent piston ring design. $5k to re-ring it is the typical answer. To minimize the oil use you can make sure the PCV valve is not clogged and use a more robust grade oil. Avoid hi-speed highway runs (peak consumption happens then). A more robust grade oil would mean a thicker 10w-30 (like Mobil 1 High Mileage), a “Euro” 5w-30, or a 10w-40. For reference, any ‘Energy Conserving’ 5w-30 (look inside the “donut” certification on the bottle for those words) is much closer to a 20 weight than a 40 weight in reality. Avoid any ‘energy conserving’ oil.
Your trans code is saying the solenoid valve that controls the Torque converter is malfunctioning. You can open the bottom of the trans and replace it. Not a DIY job unless you are relatively handy. Here’s a way to try to fix it, and has in fact worked for me on fixing similar issues on multiple cars:
- Put a few ounces of SeaFoam or Chemtool B-12 in the tranny. Drive it a few days (this cleans the metal surfaces of varnishes).
- Swap out the fluid for a fresh fill. I would use MaxLife in this car, as good or actually better than WS IME.
- Add 9 oz of Lubegard red to the fill. This will continue cleaning less aggressively, and also re-condition seals.
This all will cost about $100 in materials + your time. It has a reasonable chance of correcting the sticking/lazy solenoid but also servicing the whole transmission, too. You need to do this anyway as trans maintenance; give it a shot before attacking the solenoid directly.
These cars have an outright negligent piston ring design. $5k to re-ring it is the typical answer. To minimize the oil use you can make sure the PCV valve is not clogged and use a more robust grade oil. Avoid hi-speed highway runs (peak consumption happens then). A more robust grade oil would mean a thicker 10w-30 (like Mobil 1 High Mileage), a “Euro” 5w-30, or a 10w-40. For reference, any ‘Energy Conserving’ 5w-30 (look inside the “donut” certification on the bottle for those words) is much closer to a 20 weight than a 40 weight in reality. Avoid any ‘energy conserving’ oil.
No, it will protect it better. Film strength of oil is related to the weight - bigger number = stronger. Within each grade, there is a wide band. Actual measurement is made in cSt (centi-Stokes), but there’s a broad band of cSt values that fit in each “weight.” There are 30 grade oils that are barely more than 20, and there are 30 weight oils that are virtually 40 weight. And everything in-between. For example:
Old Mobil 1 10w30 HM was 3.5cSt thickness - this is as “thick” as a 30 weight could be. Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro - like is OE oil in Ferraris, Corvettes, etc. - 3.6cSt - a very, very light 40. No huge difference. All “Euro” 5w-30 have to be 3.5cSt - that is why they are a safe bet for protection. A 10w-40 will protect your engine better if you push it (and these cars are fun to push, I darn well know - first time I drove one I hit 125mph on the interstate - so easy and flawless!).
You need to ask them what ATF they used at Jiffy Lube. If they used the wrong fluid, that can be the problem. It would cause the torque converter plates to slip more than designed. You also need to verify the fill level is correct. This is often messed up because they do it with the car off - it has to be running to be measured and leveled. But a trans shop should know that. I hope.
Old Mobil 1 10w30 HM was 3.5cSt thickness - this is as “thick” as a 30 weight could be. Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro - like is OE oil in Ferraris, Corvettes, etc. - 3.6cSt - a very, very light 40. No huge difference. All “Euro” 5w-30 have to be 3.5cSt - that is why they are a safe bet for protection. A 10w-40 will protect your engine better if you push it (and these cars are fun to push, I darn well know - first time I drove one I hit 125mph on the interstate - so easy and flawless!).
You need to ask them what ATF they used at Jiffy Lube. If they used the wrong fluid, that can be the problem. It would cause the torque converter plates to slip more than designed. You also need to verify the fill level is correct. This is often messed up because they do it with the car off - it has to be running to be measured and leveled. But a trans shop should know that. I hope.
sounds good I'll reach out to Jiffy Lube and see what they put in my transmission, If they did put something that isn't supposed to be in there Is it too late to have them fix that? otherwise what should I do? Also Is there a 10w-40 brand oil you recommend?
02-20-24, 05:48 PM
#11
The Pennzoil Platinum LV Multi-Vehicle is a fine fluid and should not be the issue here. It’s the correct viscosity and I believe it is compatible with WS requirements. The fill volume could still be an issue.
Among major blenders, they all have high quality oils. Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol. If you are dollar conscious, look for what’s on rebate as they often run them. I think that the fill is about 6.5 qts so you’d need 2x 5 qts and have some for top-up. I even use sometimes Rotella or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (those are diesel oils), they are rated for gas engines up to the SN c. 2017 (current rating for new cars is Sp). I got some 5w-40 Rotella on a great sale after rebate the other day. I have had great service out of Mobil 1 over the years and gravitate to that. The High Mileage variant has worked really well for me in conditioning seals and reducing usage in my SUV.
Another thing is the additive. I’m not familiar with the ATS 505. Do you know what the base and chemistry of that is (ester oil?). Sounds like a powerful cleaner that works slowly over time. I’m unsure whether the ring issues are from coking and sticking (which that should eventually help with), or low-tension soft control rings (for which it will do nothing).
Among major blenders, they all have high quality oils. Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol. If you are dollar conscious, look for what’s on rebate as they often run them. I think that the fill is about 6.5 qts so you’d need 2x 5 qts and have some for top-up. I even use sometimes Rotella or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (those are diesel oils), they are rated for gas engines up to the SN c. 2017 (current rating for new cars is Sp). I got some 5w-40 Rotella on a great sale after rebate the other day. I have had great service out of Mobil 1 over the years and gravitate to that. The High Mileage variant has worked really well for me in conditioning seals and reducing usage in my SUV.
Another thing is the additive. I’m not familiar with the ATS 505. Do you know what the base and chemistry of that is (ester oil?). Sounds like a powerful cleaner that works slowly over time. I’m unsure whether the ring issues are from coking and sticking (which that should eventually help with), or low-tension soft control rings (for which it will do nothing).
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Recee23 (02-21-24)
02-20-24, 08:02 PM
#12
Concerning the Cat code, majority of this code comes from having a leak in the exhausts mid pipes. Escpecially on the AWD, the center mid pipes rot of rust, this is a common issue because the design of the mid pipes have a tin covering with fiber matting inside it. What happens is moisture gets trapped inside of the matting. What many of use do, is simply unbolt (most likely nuts are rusted so cut it) the covering and leaving the exhaust tube bare. Many times you will find the leaks happen there at the joints or inside of that covering. You might not hear the exhaust leak at times, but it will throw off the cat code. So take it to a mom n pop muffler shop and have them remove the tin, and search for leaks.
As for the oil burning issue! This happens to many, because they prolong their oil changes. 5,000-and up oil changes are not good for our cars. What happens is the oil piston galleries get filled with carbon and block the flow of oil. What you can do, is called a top piston soak. You buy a can or two of a strong parts cleaner like remove all the sparkplugs pour the parts cleaner inside of the sparkplug holes until they fill up and let it sit over night soaking. If you notice the parts cleaner/fluid level drops quickly in a cylinder then know thats a problem cylinder. Once you have let it soak overnight, crank the engine over WITHOUT THE PLUGS INSTALLED. This will force out the fluid in each cylinder. Then install the sparkplugs and record your oil level.
If you run thicker oil, you will only do more harm then good. Because if the oil galleries are clogged then it would make it more difficult to have thicker oil pass through the small tiny ports. I would rather see you use a detergent in the oil like BG moa and epr, this will help you break down the sludge. The only time, I would suggest thicker oil is if the cylinder walls were damaged. Then yes thicker oil would help seal the combustion.
As for the oil burning issue! This happens to many, because they prolong their oil changes. 5,000-and up oil changes are not good for our cars. What happens is the oil piston galleries get filled with carbon and block the flow of oil. What you can do, is called a top piston soak. You buy a can or two of a strong parts cleaner like remove all the sparkplugs pour the parts cleaner inside of the sparkplug holes until they fill up and let it sit over night soaking. If you notice the parts cleaner/fluid level drops quickly in a cylinder then know thats a problem cylinder. Once you have let it soak overnight, crank the engine over WITHOUT THE PLUGS INSTALLED. This will force out the fluid in each cylinder. Then install the sparkplugs and record your oil level.
If you run thicker oil, you will only do more harm then good. Because if the oil galleries are clogged then it would make it more difficult to have thicker oil pass through the small tiny ports. I would rather see you use a detergent in the oil like BG moa and epr, this will help you break down the sludge. The only time, I would suggest thicker oil is if the cylinder walls were damaged. Then yes thicker oil would help seal the combustion.
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Recee23 (02-21-24)
02-20-24, 10:44 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The Pennzoil Platinum LV Multi-Vehicle is a fine fluid and should not be the issue here. It’s the correct viscosity and I believe it is compatible with WS requirements. The fill volume could still be an issue.
Among major blenders, they all have high quality oils. Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol. If you are dollar conscious, look for what’s on rebate as they often run them. I think that the fill is about 6.5 qts so you’d need 2x 5 qts and have some for top-up. I even use sometimes Rotella or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (those are diesel oils), they are rated for gas engines up to the SN c. 2017 (current rating for new cars is Sp). I got some 5w-40 Rotella on a great sale after rebate the other day. I have had great service out of Mobil 1 over the years and gravitate to that. The High Mileage variant has worked really well for me in conditioning seals and reducing usage in my SUV.
Another thing is the additive. I’m not familiar with the ATS 505. Do you know what the base and chemistry of that is (ester oil?). Sounds like a powerful cleaner that works slowly over time. I’m unsure whether the ring issues are from coking and sticking (which that should eventually help with), or low-tension soft control rings (for which it will do nothing).
Among major blenders, they all have high quality oils. Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol. If you are dollar conscious, look for what’s on rebate as they often run them. I think that the fill is about 6.5 qts so you’d need 2x 5 qts and have some for top-up. I even use sometimes Rotella or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (those are diesel oils), they are rated for gas engines up to the SN c. 2017 (current rating for new cars is Sp). I got some 5w-40 Rotella on a great sale after rebate the other day. I have had great service out of Mobil 1 over the years and gravitate to that. The High Mileage variant has worked really well for me in conditioning seals and reducing usage in my SUV.
Another thing is the additive. I’m not familiar with the ATS 505. Do you know what the base and chemistry of that is (ester oil?). Sounds like a powerful cleaner that works slowly over time. I’m unsure whether the ring issues are from coking and sticking (which that should eventually help with), or low-tension soft control rings (for which it will do nothing).
If I go into Jiffy Lube can they potentially check the transmission fluid, and I'll ask them to do it while its running? Heres a pic from what google says, so it could be missing about 1.5 quarts?
Also Is It fine to mix 10w-40 and 5w-30 together as I fill up the 5w-30 that burns off?
Heres the link for info about ATS
https://www.atschemicals.com/505-pour-ins/
Last edited by Recee23; 02-20-24 at 11:51 PM.
02-20-24, 11:29 PM
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Concerning the Cat code, majority of this code comes from having a leak in the exhausts mid pipes. Escpecially on the AWD, the center mid pipes rot of rust, this is a common issue because the design of the mid pipes have a tin covering with fiber matting inside it. What happens is moisture gets trapped inside of the matting. What many of use do, is simply unbolt (most likely nuts are rusted so cut it) the covering and leaving the exhaust tube bare. Many times you will find the leaks happen there at the joints or inside of that covering. You might not hear the exhaust leak at times, but it will throw off the cat code. So take it to a mom n pop muffler shop and have them remove the tin, and search for leaks.
As for the oil burning issue! This happens to many, because they prolong their oil changes. 5,000-and up oil changes are not good for our cars. What happens is the oil piston galleries get filled with carbon and block the flow of oil. What you can do, is called a top piston soak. You buy a can or two of a strong parts cleaner like remove all the sparkplugs pour the parts cleaner inside of the sparkplug holes until they fill up and let it sit over night soaking. If you notice the parts cleaner/fluid level drops quickly in a cylinder then know thats a problem cylinder. Once you have let it soak overnight, crank the engine over WITHOUT THE PLUGS INSTALLED. This will force out the fluid in each cylinder. Then install the sparkplugs and record your oil level.
If you run thicker oil, you will only do more harm then good. Because if the oil galleries are clogged then it would make it more difficult to have thicker oil pass through the small tiny ports. I would rather see you use a detergent in the oil like BG moa and epr, this will help you break down the sludge. The only time, I would suggest thicker oil is if the cylinder walls were damaged. Then yes thicker oil would help seal the combustion.
As for the oil burning issue! This happens to many, because they prolong their oil changes. 5,000-and up oil changes are not good for our cars. What happens is the oil piston galleries get filled with carbon and block the flow of oil. What you can do, is called a top piston soak. You buy a can or two of a strong parts cleaner like remove all the sparkplugs pour the parts cleaner inside of the sparkplug holes until they fill up and let it sit over night soaking. If you notice the parts cleaner/fluid level drops quickly in a cylinder then know thats a problem cylinder. Once you have let it soak overnight, crank the engine over WITHOUT THE PLUGS INSTALLED. This will force out the fluid in each cylinder. Then install the sparkplugs and record your oil level.
If you run thicker oil, you will only do more harm then good. Because if the oil galleries are clogged then it would make it more difficult to have thicker oil pass through the small tiny ports. I would rather see you use a detergent in the oil like BG moa and epr, this will help you break down the sludge. The only time, I would suggest thicker oil is if the cylinder walls were damaged. Then yes thicker oil would help seal the combustion.
02-21-24, 03:27 PM
#15
Couple points:
Yeah you can top-up with the 10w-40. Best to use same brand but it is not a bad deal. My suv that burns a lot, I top up and basically never drain oil, just top up (same effect).
The ATS 505 you ran should have done anything a piston-soak would do. For severely clogged piston drain holes (which is the issue he is addressing and NOT the issue here), it is sometimes marginally effective. I have done 10 or 12 in the past 12 years or so. Waste of time mostly, and it is NOT the issue with your car. Lexus issued an extended (9 year) warranty on rings in these cars because of the failure. You are out of the warranty unfortunately. Oil journal clogging, oil not lasting 5k miles - that’s not the case here at all. If you want to run another oil additive long term for the same effect but at lower cost than the 505, get a quart of Lubegard Biotech. It was $22 on Amazon the other day and quite a deal at that price. I’d recommend adding it (13 oz is an adequqte treat rate, vs their 3oz recommendation - they upped it a few years ago).
That transmission fill volume info is completely wrong. I’ve read there’s bad info printed somewhere that gets repeated. A pan drain should net 4+ quarts, total fill volume is 8 to 10 (not positive on exact number). You need to have someone who know how to do this check it, or DIY it. Lift car, run the engine, open fill bolt, pump in fluid until it runs out. Seal bolt with new rubber-ringed gasket (important!). And it’s good. I highly suggest adding 8 to 9 oz of Lubegard Red in at the same time. Then throw the other 1 or 2 ozs of the container in the PS system along with fresh ATF in the PS reservoir.
As a real-world comparison, the GS in my sig was serviced by an indy shop. They did a transmission service. My ex had this done so as not to ask me for help and she paid a ridiculous amount for it. A few months later she called me because she was having tranny issues and stuck at work. I got her son my/step-son to go to her, clear codes, drive it to her house. I packed up tools and went over a few days later (about an hour away). The transmission pan was empty. The car was ~4 qts. Low. No explanation - never leaked when parked in the driveway, no evidence of leaking elsewhere on the housing. Transmission was almost toasted. I filled it correctly and the car is running great, thankfully (about 170k miles now I think). Do not trust at all the trans service was done properly. Never trust that unless you know the mechanic to be top-notch.
Yeah you can top-up with the 10w-40. Best to use same brand but it is not a bad deal. My suv that burns a lot, I top up and basically never drain oil, just top up (same effect).
The ATS 505 you ran should have done anything a piston-soak would do. For severely clogged piston drain holes (which is the issue he is addressing and NOT the issue here), it is sometimes marginally effective. I have done 10 or 12 in the past 12 years or so. Waste of time mostly, and it is NOT the issue with your car. Lexus issued an extended (9 year) warranty on rings in these cars because of the failure. You are out of the warranty unfortunately. Oil journal clogging, oil not lasting 5k miles - that’s not the case here at all. If you want to run another oil additive long term for the same effect but at lower cost than the 505, get a quart of Lubegard Biotech. It was $22 on Amazon the other day and quite a deal at that price. I’d recommend adding it (13 oz is an adequqte treat rate, vs their 3oz recommendation - they upped it a few years ago).
That transmission fill volume info is completely wrong. I’ve read there’s bad info printed somewhere that gets repeated. A pan drain should net 4+ quarts, total fill volume is 8 to 10 (not positive on exact number). You need to have someone who know how to do this check it, or DIY it. Lift car, run the engine, open fill bolt, pump in fluid until it runs out. Seal bolt with new rubber-ringed gasket (important!). And it’s good. I highly suggest adding 8 to 9 oz of Lubegard Red in at the same time. Then throw the other 1 or 2 ozs of the container in the PS system along with fresh ATF in the PS reservoir.
As a real-world comparison, the GS in my sig was serviced by an indy shop. They did a transmission service. My ex had this done so as not to ask me for help and she paid a ridiculous amount for it. A few months later she called me because she was having tranny issues and stuck at work. I got her son my/step-son to go to her, clear codes, drive it to her house. I packed up tools and went over a few days later (about an hour away). The transmission pan was empty. The car was ~4 qts. Low. No explanation - never leaked when parked in the driveway, no evidence of leaking elsewhere on the housing. Transmission was almost toasted. I filled it correctly and the car is running great, thankfully (about 170k miles now I think). Do not trust at all the trans service was done properly. Never trust that unless you know the mechanic to be top-notch.