cjwal

Thanks to all of those forum members that have helped thus far. Basically I had a local shop in DFW do the bypass for me, but we could never get it to work.

DVD works fine, blue tooth and play list work fine, but I could never get the switch to start the input screen for the navigation system. Also I am getting choppy navigation now.

Yang1815

iTrader: (1)

First of all, is yours an 06 or 07? One of the wires is different.

It might help also if you can post a pic so we can help you verify if the installation was performed correctly or not.

Basically you should have seen 2 wires cut (one of them is purple, the other one depends on the year), then the engine side of the wires connected to an extra wire with the switch installed and routed somewhere. Then a third wire, an yellow wire, should have been cut as well and grounded somewhere.

houstonsc4

What color was the wires you reconnect?

should only be the yellow,purple,and pink.

Also if you use butt connectors make sure the wire in in all the way and have good contact. The wires are very thin.

thats all I could think of hope this help.

Jimmy

cjwal

Thanks Yang1815,

I have and 07 GS350. Familar with the Purple wire, White with silver spots wire, splicing in the switch and then grounding the yellow wire. Unfortunately, I had to have them do this after they did there first pass. They wired it up as a switch to ground the Dvd player when you flip the switch. A miscommunication between the tech and the sales guy. But then when they got it hooked up correctly, I was not getting an response from the Nav. (Jumpy nav and no ability to flip toggle the dest input.) Thus I went ahead to do some trouble shooting. Thus I wanted to get it back to normal first to debug.

What I found is that I am not getting any signal to the nav for speed. Thus I still see the bluetooth and MP3 files from my Vais SLI, and I am still getting the jumpy nav. (I still get motion on the nav as it is getting the GPS signal and eventually compensates for speed)

This is the reason I am asking about if they could have blown a fuse, or worse, hurt the nav board.

How Can I check if I am getting a signal on the purple wire from the main harness. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Cut-Throat

I think he has the 07 GS350. In that case there is no pink wire to be cut. It is a white one with silver dots and it is on a different plug as well. There are 3 plugs on the GS350 Nav Unit. I believe the 06 has only 2.

Cut-Throat

Not sure how you can check to see if you are getting a signal from VSS, but the first thing I would do is the easiest stuff. Like check all the fuses for continuity. You might be able to see if one is blown, if not use a multimeter.
Did you solder the connections or use crimping? If you used crimping, there is too much room for failure, so try solder.

Cut-Throat

Just thought of something else. If your Navigation scroll is jerky, you should be able to enter a destination for about 30 seconds or so after the car is moving. that should tell you that you are not getting a signal down the wire or that the wires are not connected properly.

cjwal

Thanks Cut-throat,

Originally the wires were soldered, right now they are just crimped. I am taking the car back into the shop and they said they will get it fixed, but I am shocked that I could not get it back to normal.

Just one of those situations where I should have done this myself. I always do, but in this case, I was getting ready to go on vacation so I did not have the time, and this shop does a lot of high end work.

Just kicking myself now.

Anyway, they have all the equipment to check the signal, thus I will see if I get lucky on Wed.

Otherwise, I was looking through the manual and do not see a VSS fuse anywhere. Plenty of Radio and a TV fuse, so does anyone have any clue on what may be the right fuse?

cjwal

You are absolutely correct. I get about 30 seconds of movement to enter a destination then it locks out. Thus why I am certain along with that the bluetooth and Ipod files are visible that I am not getting and vss signal.

Cut-Throat

It is probably a shared fuse for a lot of stuff. I'd make sure they're all good. I'd start with the Radio and any other fuse that is close to the Nav unit.

cjwal

Will do, I was trying to avoid the dreaded fuse hunt. Only thing though is nothing else seems to be missing. All other speed indicators, display for gas mileage and others are working fine. Even the one on the display screen itself. Thus Why I am so confused. Only other thing I can think of is that I have a bad connection somewhere along the harness.

Yang1815

iTrader: (1)

Well the easiest way I can think of (not sure if you have already done this exactly) is to reconnect the SPD wire and see if your BT/sound file menu gets disabled while in motion.

Good luck and keep us updated.

cjwal

Thanks Yang1815,

That is what I did this morning and still no change. I wanted to get the system back to baseline so that I could redo anything and trouble shoot. Thus why my question. What I am seeing is basically with it all hooked back up, that I still have the bluetooth and MP3 files. Thus, I am happy that most everything is back, but I just can not get the VSS.

Does anyone know where the VSS signal is coming from. Anyone know if this is a specific part or is it tied into the other speed sensor components. IE, Speedometer, or the vehicle MPG.

Also, anyone know any techs that are open to this sort of question?????

DrexLex

It comes from the instrument cluster. One of the things it controls is the automatic loudness compensation (it feeds the amp in this case). If you have it turned on, it boost the volume and bass as you get up to speed. Might see if that's still working or not.

If you put a voltmeter on the VSS line when the car is stopped, I suspect it will sit at 0v (AC or DC). Then as the car moves, it will output a pulse train proportional to speed, so you should see some positive DC voltage on the meter, or some AC voltage as well. Some form of life. If it is ziltch all the time, that may mean VSS has gone AWOL.

Yang1815

iTrader: (1)

Yep yep I was going to suggest the voltmeter as the next step since apparently nothing's getting through.

So then you can tell if it's the lack of signal or the non-recognition of an existing signal.