06 GS 430 - new rotors @ 30k?
12-08-07, 02:12 PM
#16
that's not true at all.
there are 2 minimum specs.
there is minimum machining which is what Silver2000 is talking about and there is Discard which is the point not to go below, PERIOD.
normally there SHOULD be enough rotor left after one set of pads to turn and still be above the minimum machining specs by a reasonable amount for a second or in some cases a third set of pads.
if you are close enough to that point before turning the rotors then chances are you will be right on or below after turning the rotors. while you can "get away" with putting on another set of pads if you are at or JUST (.005") below the minimum machining point, about half way through the life of your pads you will start to notice reduced braking and they also become much more prone to warping.
as far as the lip, that is a common thing on many brake systems. it is simply a matter of the pad contacting the rotor on the inside of the rotor friction surface away from the edge. as the pads and rotors wear down together, the outside edge of the rotor remains at the thickness of how it was new creating a lip. it's easy enough to remove but it's usually a sign that the rotors need to be changed.
if you have ever owned a German car, this is pretty much how every set of pads wear.... just the way they are.
as far as the life of the pads and rotors on your car, my guess is despite your thoughts, you are very hard on the brakes. either by riding the brakes, harsh braking or aggressive driving and/or something is keeping the brakes engaged be it a mechanical problem or maybe you have a big foot and it's catching the brake pedal ever so slightly as you work the gas....
i've seen it where the same car and same brakes with different drivers have wildly different pad and rotor lifespans. one driver might see 60-80k out of a set of brakes while the other might see between 5-10k.... again same car and same brakes, just comes down to how the car is driven.
there are 2 minimum specs.
there is minimum machining which is what Silver2000 is talking about and there is Discard which is the point not to go below, PERIOD.
normally there SHOULD be enough rotor left after one set of pads to turn and still be above the minimum machining specs by a reasonable amount for a second or in some cases a third set of pads.
if you are close enough to that point before turning the rotors then chances are you will be right on or below after turning the rotors. while you can "get away" with putting on another set of pads if you are at or JUST (.005") below the minimum machining point, about half way through the life of your pads you will start to notice reduced braking and they also become much more prone to warping.
as far as the lip, that is a common thing on many brake systems. it is simply a matter of the pad contacting the rotor on the inside of the rotor friction surface away from the edge. as the pads and rotors wear down together, the outside edge of the rotor remains at the thickness of how it was new creating a lip. it's easy enough to remove but it's usually a sign that the rotors need to be changed.
if you have ever owned a German car, this is pretty much how every set of pads wear.... just the way they are.
as far as the life of the pads and rotors on your car, my guess is despite your thoughts, you are very hard on the brakes. either by riding the brakes, harsh braking or aggressive driving and/or something is keeping the brakes engaged be it a mechanical problem or maybe you have a big foot and it's catching the brake pedal ever so slightly as you work the gas....
i've seen it where the same car and same brakes with different drivers have wildly different pad and rotor lifespans. one driver might see 60-80k out of a set of brakes while the other might see between 5-10k.... again same car and same brakes, just comes down to how the car is driven.
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