Windshield protection?
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Windshield protection?
Are there any worthwhile products that can be applied to a new windshield that will help prohibit or retard eroding the finish on a windshield.
I always enjoy the nice clean optics of a new windshield, but obviously this degrades when particulates in the air collide with the windshield while driving (especially on highways). I'm hoping there is an effective way to slow this wear down so the windshield will stay fresh looking longer.
I always enjoy the nice clean optics of a new windshield, but obviously this degrades when particulates in the air collide with the windshield while driving (especially on highways). I'm hoping there is an effective way to slow this wear down so the windshield will stay fresh looking longer.
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I had thought about this, but have had no experience using this product or anything similar. I just don't know the pros/cons of this.
I do know everytime I get a new car or windshield, the clarity of a fresh piece of glass is so incredible. Then you take it out on the highway/freeway where fine particles of sand, dust, silica, etc. get kicked all over and start to pit the windshield. The clarity is greatly diminished. And these windshields are very expensive to replace.
So I was hoping there might be some way to slow down the pitting that happens with road use.
I do know everytime I get a new car or windshield, the clarity of a fresh piece of glass is so incredible. Then you take it out on the highway/freeway where fine particles of sand, dust, silica, etc. get kicked all over and start to pit the windshield. The clarity is greatly diminished. And these windshields are very expensive to replace.
So I was hoping there might be some way to slow down the pitting that happens with road use.
#6
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I had thought about this, but have had no experience using this product or anything similar. I just don't know the pros/cons of this.
I do know everytime I get a new car or windshield, the clarity of a fresh piece of glass is so incredible. Then you take it out on the highway/freeway where fine particles of sand, dust, silica, etc. get kicked all over and start to pit the windshield. The clarity is greatly diminished. And these windshields are very expensive to replace.
So I was hoping there might be some way to slow down the pitting that happens with road use.
I do know everytime I get a new car or windshield, the clarity of a fresh piece of glass is so incredible. Then you take it out on the highway/freeway where fine particles of sand, dust, silica, etc. get kicked all over and start to pit the windshield. The clarity is greatly diminished. And these windshields are very expensive to replace.
So I was hoping there might be some way to slow down the pitting that happens with road use.
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I had read the label on rain-x and figured if it could be of any benefit in this regard, it would have stated it.
I'll check with some auto shops . . . . .
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#8
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http://www.glass-scratch-removal.com...epairable.html
Types of Scratching and Damage
There are many types of scratches that can exist on glass surfaces. For the relevance of this article we will define these in three categories. These three categories are superficial, surface, and sub-surface scratches.
Superficial glass scratches are normally created through incidental damage. This can even be caused from standard maintenance to the glass. Small particles create microscopic scratches on the surface of the glass. These scratches are usually undetectable without the direct presence of light. They are also undetectable by touch. This type of damage can be very easily repaired through various polishing methods. Because the scratch is less then .001/ inch, basic small micron polishing compounds can produce successful results. Glass is also a very porous material allowing minerals and chemicals to penetrate its surface causing corrosion problems over time. This is also part of the superficial damage.
Surface glass scratching can also be created from incidental damage although many of the scratch of this degree are created from harsh abrasive contact with the glass. Surface scratching can vary in depth from .001 to .004/ inch. In many cases you will be able to see the scratches without direct sunlight. These scratches can also be felt with a figure nail or a blunt edged abject. Although you will be able to feel the scratch, the object or nail being used to feel the scratch should not catch or hold in the designated scratch area. This damage can also be repaired if isolated to a designated area on the glass no larger then 1 sq/ft. Do-It-Yourself applications are available for this type of damage although it is recommended to contact your local glass restoration professional for evaluation.
Sub-surface glass scratching is created through the use of very abrasive materials. In many cases this damage is intentional etch or scratch into the window using substantial force. This damage is also limited to approximately no more then 1 sq/ft of damage. A glass restoration professional is required for this type of repair. Typically sub-surface scratching is between .005 to .014/inch. This scratch is visible up to 12 feet away from the damage and can be felt with any blunt object including a figure nail preventing the object or nail from moving any further. Many residential glass damaged areas of this magnitude area caused by sand paper, pet claws etc. On commercial buildings the damaged is primarily caused by vandalism.
Please consult a glass professional when evaluating your glass damage. A combination of the type of glass and the type and extent of the damage will determine the appropriate action. Good luck with your restoration!
check the website below for glass scratch removal products; it should be similar to what you can get at your local auto retail store.
http://www.gtglass.com/site/index.html
Hope this info helps and clears up any confusion.
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These scratches are usually undetectable without the direct presence of light.
I guess when I get enough superficial scratches, I can pay a shop to polish them out.
Thanks for the excellent information and links . . . . . . .
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