GS - 3rd Gen (2006-2011) Discussion about the 2006+ model GS300, GS350, GS430, GS450H and GS460

Buyer advice

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Old 06-07-10, 12:32 AM
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DvSiR
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Default Buyer advice

Im considering a 350. Any tips on what to look for besides the usual obvious stuff? Not very familiar with the 3GS, so any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks!
Old 06-07-10, 01:31 AM
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arnieosp
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What are you looking for? AWD or RWD? What year? How much are you thinking about spending?
Old 06-07-10, 06:24 AM
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ASILVER
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I'm waiting for mine to get delivered, a used 07, I checked everywhere, what I can tell you is to make sure if it "looks" like a good deal to pull a carfax, all the lowest priced cars had accident history or even salvage titles, where the advertisement mentions NOTHING about salvage.

If you are looking new, diff story.
Old 06-07-10, 06:48 AM
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Bushwack
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That's a blanket question you're asking.

Make sure all the TSBs have been taken care of. There have been problems with both side mirrors (not a TSB and covered by warranty). If you're buying from a private party, check all the fluids and make sure they are the color they are suppose to be. No matter what the manual says, brake fluid should be changed every 24 months/30K miles. Some say the same for coolant.

If you're buying new, no worries. I think the last year before a model refresh is the best year to buy.
Old 06-07-10, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DvSiR
Im considering a 350. Any tips on what to look for besides the usual obvious stuff? Not very familiar with the 3GS, so any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks!
I recommend you take the car to an independent shop and have it inspected. Lot of horror stories on here about people selling badly repaired cars.

Other than that the car is fantastic. Only thing to check for is that some of the cars have some rattles (usually pre-2008 cars). Drive it on a bumpy road first.
Old 06-07-10, 07:23 AM
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jtrue28
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AWD looks like a Jeep, in terms of suspension. if you're planning on lowering or changing out wheels, the AWD has a lot more limitations.
Old 06-07-10, 08:05 AM
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rld14
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If you want I can post some pics... but if you are looking at the car:

Rule #1: Take Carfax reports with a grain of salt. I've seen PLENTY of cars with "clean" Carfax reports that have had serious damage and just as many cars with carfax accident reports that have never really been hurt.

Rule #2: Don't buy one of these cars with paintwork on it. Period. You're not buying a super rare or nearly unique car, there's tons of these out there, buy a nice one. You probably don't wanna spend $600 on an Elcometer, but paintwork is easy to spot.

First, make sure that the VIN stickers are on all the body panels.

Second, check the bolts on the front end.. fenders and hood. Make sure none of the fasteners securing these panels have tool marks on them.

Checking for paintwork takes some skill, I do this for a living so i can usually tell if a car has been painted by a quick glance, but feel the edges of the panels, they should be as smooth as the surfaces, if there's roughness, the panel's been painted. You'll see tape lines on door jambs when a panel has been painted, look for mismatched color, fish eyes, sanding marks under the clear coat or dust/debris in the paint. Lexus tends to have very high quality paint so imperfections are a HUGE red flag.

These cars are also VERY stiff on the market without Navi, ML doesn't help to sell them as much as you might think, but without Navi they are very stiff. I made the mistake of once buying a no-navi car for the lot once because it was cheap, I lived to regret that decision.

If you guys want, i can take some pics of previous body repairs to show you what to look for.
Old 06-07-10, 08:22 AM
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Seven07
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Originally Posted by rld14
If you want I can post some pics... but if you are looking at the car:

Rule #1: Take Carfax reports with a grain of salt. I've seen PLENTY of cars with "clean" Carfax reports that have had serious damage and just as many cars with carfax accident reports that have never really been hurt.

Rule #2: Don't buy one of these cars with paintwork on it. Period. You're not buying a super rare or nearly unique car, there's tons of these out there, buy a nice one. You probably don't wanna spend $600 on an Elcometer, but paintwork is easy to spot.

First, make sure that the VIN stickers are on all the body panels.

Second, check the bolts on the front end.. fenders and hood. Make sure none of the fasteners securing these panels have tool marks on them.

Checking for paintwork takes some skill, I do this for a living so i can usually tell if a car has been painted by a quick glance, but feel the edges of the panels, they should be as smooth as the surfaces, if there's roughness, the panel's been painted. You'll see tape lines on door jambs when a panel has been painted, look for mismatched color, fish eyes, sanding marks under the clear coat or dust/debris in the paint. Lexus tends to have very high quality paint so imperfections are a HUGE red flag.

These cars are also VERY stiff on the market without Navi, ML doesn't help to sell them as much as you might think, but without Navi they are very stiff. I made the mistake of once buying a no-navi car for the lot once because it was cheap, I lived to regret that decision.

If you guys want, i can take some pics of previous body repairs to show you what to look for.
Good tips. I use the same techniques when I buy cars.
Do not trust Carfax. A dealership can do a body work in their own shop and not report it so the car may have "clean title", but it might have been in an accident. I've seen too many of these.
Old 06-07-10, 08:52 AM
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I agree the carfax isn't the end all be all of the car's condition, but, it's really easy to narrow your choices by removing cars that DO show problems on carfax, especially for me where the car was purchased 1000 miles away there's no chance to do so.

Carmax has a 5 day return policy so I figured it's not too much risk if I get the car and there's something wrong that's not covered under warranty I can just return it, no harm no foul.

I also fought back and forth with the navi, but ultimately went without it, my folks have had the 07 es and the 10 rx 350 with nav, it's terrible compared to google navigation on the phone, my 05 acura nav isn't great either, it never recognizes a place by name, so if you don't have the address you're SOL, perhaps the lexus works better with names of places but, for around $1500 - $2000 more in the used market, I couldn't justify it. just my .02

Last edited by ASILVER; 06-07-10 at 08:56 AM.
Old 06-07-10, 09:23 AM
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rld14
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Originally Posted by Seven07
Good tips. I use the same techniques when I buy cars.
Do not trust Carfax. A dealership can do a body work in their own shop and not report it so the car may have "clean title", but it might have been in an accident. I've seen too many of these.
The extreme vast majority of "accidents" on Carfax are from Police Reports. Not every jurisdiction sells their accident data to Carfax.

A good thing that Carfax is finally picking up is whether or not the car ran across an auction block with a "frame damage" or "unibody damage" announcement. Sometimes it's minor, sometimes the car was BADLY hurt. These are to be avoided.

Don't report the accident to the police? No show on Carfax. Wreck your car in one county in Jersey? No show on Carfax. Until 3/08 Accident reports from Westchester County, NY wasn't selling their data to Carfax.
Old 06-07-10, 09:24 AM
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rld14
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Originally Posted by ASILVER
I agree the carfax isn't the end all be all of the car's condition, but, it's really easy to narrow your choices by removing cars that DO show problems on carfax, especially for me where the car was purchased 1000 miles away there's no chance to do so.

Carmax has a 5 day return policy so I figured it's not too much risk if I get the car and there's something wrong that's not covered under warranty I can just return it, no harm no foul.

I also fought back and forth with the navi, but ultimately went without it, my folks have had the 07 es and the 10 rx 350 with nav, it's terrible compared to google navigation on the phone, my 05 acura nav isn't great either, it never recognizes a place by name, so if you don't have the address you're SOL, perhaps the lexus works better with names of places but, for around $1500 - $2000 more in the used market, I couldn't justify it. just my .02
If it helps, I know a number of Carfax buyers from the auctions, generally the guys from Virgina Beach and CT though.

They are pretty picky about what they buy, they do not retail cars with excessive paintwork, unibody damage, etc. So chances are the car's a good one.
Old 06-07-10, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rld14
If it helps, I know a number of Carfax buyers from the auctions, generally the guys from Virgina Beach and CT though.

They are pretty picky about what they buy, they do not retail cars with excessive paintwork, unibody damage, etc. So chances are the car's a good one.
Yeah the guy at carmax explained the same thing, he said they'll buy any car but if it's had any frame damage or if they don't feel it's up to snuff, they just resell it wholesale and it never hits their lot.

It makes sense b/c they offer 30 day 100% warranty coverage so I'm sure they don't want the hassle of selling a car that's going to come back in a week with a $2000 repair.
Old 06-07-10, 06:02 PM
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check for any dash rattles or rattles from the sunroof while driving or when slamming the door. The GS350 is an excellent car but it has a few issues with minor rattles .
Old 06-08-10, 12:49 AM
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DvSiR
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Thanks you guys for all the great feedback! Ill make sure to check for all the vin's. Are they on all the panels on the GS? On my Supra I made sure to look for the vin's everywhere I could, fenders, hood, doors, etc..
Old 06-08-10, 04:26 AM
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twylie
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Originally Posted by DvSiR
Thanks you guys for all the great feedback! Ill make sure to check for all the vin's. Are they on all the panels on the GS? On my Supra I made sure to look for the vin's everywhere I could, fenders, hood, doors, etc..
they are. Some are obvious, some (door jams) require you to roll back weatherstripping, some are hidden (I found another one for the rear fender that is visible once you remove the panels in the trunk to change the turn signal bulbs).

I have been meaning to do a pictorial of the various locations as a reference as I don't think any such thing currently exists. Would be useful as the cars are getting older and used specimens are more likely to have had panels replaced.


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