salimshah

Bad idea. I would push it to about 10% above [with 2 bulbs it will be 20% over].

Salim

01LEXPL

iTrader: (10)

Never. More prone to burning out your OEM wiring as it is only made to support a little more than the recommended 55w & 35w respectively.

However this is where you play around with relays and whatnot to eliminate said wiring failure risk, and be able to run the bulbs.

Good luck

arnieosp

iTrader: (1)

I was told by several people that the plastic headlight could melt, not the wiring.

slk_dds

Don't really know how it works but it stated 60W = 120W ???

Still the freaking bulb went out with a BANG !!!

arnieosp

iTrader: (1)

So, did your bulb explode inside the headlight which caused the damage, or was it a heat damage of melting type?

salimshah

With more current the wire (since it is not 0ohm) starts to heat up. The heat is based on the gauge of wire (resistance) and the current flow. Now it is possible that the wire can sustain that current without getting hot, till the insulation melts. The problem is with the bulb end.

The bulb is converting the energy into heat and light. The efficiency of the filament light bulb to produce light is very low and most of it turns into heat. The heat is transferred from the bulb by radiation and conduction. The conduction part of the heat transfer is the major source of problem. The bulb gets hot and the casing becomes hot and then the wires become hot [now the wire is getting hot from the bulb in addition to the current causing heat up].

My predication is, if the fuse does not pup, you will experience a melt down of the areas around socket and melted insulation near the socket. The deformation can be enough that you will not be able to hold the sockets in the plastic shell of the light assembly.

Salim
[assuming you are going from 50W bulbs to 100W bulb 4.2Amps -> 8.3Amp per bulb]

worker

Another option is to check out LED.

I was reading the other day that they are making LED headlight. I wonder how that turn out. LED would mean long lasting + lower heat + much much less power. If it can put out as much light it'll be great.

arnieosp

iTrader: (1)

Salim,

I understand the physics of it. 10 years ago I was thinking about upping the wattage on my Mercedes. I posted a similar question about 80w bulbs on MBZ forum. Many people predicted dire consequences, from melting wires to exploding headlights, and only couple of people told me "it works on my car, despite all the theories".

So, I went ahead and replaced my stock 55w/60w bulbs with 80w/80w. Again, it was 10 years ago, and now my daughter still drives that old Benz with those bulbs, which BTW give out a lot more light.

So, now I am trying to do the same with my high beams on the Lexuses. I am a little hesitant about 100w, but 85w looks as an attractive option. The stock bulb, correct me if I am wrong, is 60w. I want to know, if anybody out there actually had any experience with higher wattage bulbs.

redrocks

Go for it. What do you have to lose?

arnieosp

iTrader: (1)

A $1600 headlight, if it melts.

kickin8

iTrader: (1)

no go

65w draws 5.4A current vs 100w with 8.3A

I personally will go for HIDs....(that's why I have them for both cars... )

arnieosp

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. Do you knw how many amps 80W would draw?

redrocks

Your HIDs shouldn't take ten seconds to warm up? What brand did you install? You said you installed the HIDs for high beam, most vendors don't recommend installing HIDs on high beam.

kickin8

iTrader: (1)

P=IV

P = power

I = current

V = Voltage (12V)

CometVR4

You're also looking the risk of melting your housing in the headlight as well. I don't recommend it. Do you really need bright light so bad where you're willing to take the risk of damaging your headlight?
If you do a lot a back road driving then warm-up time for HID should be a non issue since it would only be that initial warm up and turning them off for a car to pass and flipping back on after a few seconds is not going to be another 10sec.