johnnunez2

(correction)only changed the oil on my lexus. ive done engine swaps,im know what im doing even though its pretty much common sense.to each his own.

johnnunez2

no one is going to chime in on this? i guess you guys might have taken the advice and just gone to a local shop and asked for a brake fluid flush. just make sure its good fluid or even toyota (if it exists). i really dont see why they would use something else to flush out the system completely. so i would understand if they stopped doing that.

Armand

So is there a consensus yet as to what mileage point plugs are to be changed? My dealership said at 60k along with a couple of filter changes. I changed the filters myself but will leave the plugs to be changed by the dealership. 60K service here (so cal) was running me around the $700 I figured I would save a few $$ by DIYing the filters, easy enough to do.

I find 60K a bit low when most people I know who have other toyotas require plug change out at about 80k some even 120k

msgs350

iTrader: (2)

So....is it 60k or 100k for 2007 GS350 plugs?

My service advisor said 60k and I'm due for my $900 60k service soon.

johnnunez2

ouch! seems like you can do so much more with that money.

BinaryJay

Log in at Lexus.com and get the service schedule for your car.

drewdogg80

The manual says 60K for warranty purposes for my 2007 GS350. On my RX330 and LX470, manual says rated until 120K.

Dealer quoted $450 just to change plugs for the GS. Crazy.

jdaniels07

in regards to this topic, the GS 350 2007 warranty & service guide says:

72 months or 60k miles:
...
Replace brake fluid
Replace spark plugs(GS350, IS)1
...

Note for the (1):
Required under terms of the Emission Control Warranty.

I plan to get the oil and brake fluid changed at the Toyota dealer, as it's closer to home. And will replace the plugs myself as well as the other minor stuff(a/c filter, already have k&n engine filter). Tires will be rotated where I purchased them...

Will continue to put the money I save in the kids college savings...

Plugs normally are an easy job if they are easy to get to. Just don't screw up putting them back in or over tighten them. I have a 2003 Harley Davidson F150 as well and because it's a PITA to get to the back 2 plugs near the firewall, I took it to the Ford dealship.

I wouldn't advise taking your car to small shops unless you have a good relationship with them. Nor the quick lube places, they are looking to nickle and dime you just as much as the dealer.

JD

Bavaria

My understanding is that changing the plugs on a GS 350 is no walk in the park.

johnnunez2

for 450.00!! ill take my chances.lol

jdaniels07

once i get all the plastic off i'll know...

anybody replaced their own plugs yet?

what's the effort on a scale of 1 to 5, 5 being a PITA

JD

johnnunez2

jdaniels time to take pics...lol. just in case its a bit harder than normal.

ImStricken

brakes are to be bled every 2 years. brake fluid is very hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere, and once poured into the reservoir, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and, eventually, the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high.
Along with the brake calipers & pads, brake fluid gets very hot. If the hot brake fluid has a high water content, it creates steam. That steam then displaces brake fluid and creates air bubbles. that could cause the pedal to fall to the floor and almost zero brake pad pressure = car isn't gonna stop.
brown fluid = contaminated & burned up with water (unless its race/dot4 fluid)

you can pick up your own brake bleeder kit at any auto parts store for just under $9.00


guys i cant believe you pay that much to bleed your brakes? bleeding brakes is the easiest thing you can do on a car aside from an oil change. in many cars you dont even need to take off the wheels.

PROCEDURE:
[BEFORE YOU BEGIN: open the lid on your brake reservoir. and have fresh brake fluid ready to pour in]
1. locate your bleeding screw (usually a 10mm bolt)

(its usually going to have a rubber nipple cover on it to keep dust out)


2. take a wrench and put it on the bleeder bolt
3. attach a small rubber hose from your kit onto the bleeder bolt(on top of the wrench)
4. HAVE SOMEONE PUMP 3-4 TIMES THE BRAKE PEDAL & HOLD IT DOWN
5. while your assistant is holding down the pedal you open up the bleeder bolt allowing some fluid to come out AND CLOSE THE BOLT BACK UP.
6. TELL YOUR ASSISTANT TO AGAIN PUMP & HOLD THE PEDAL
7. as they are holding down the pumped pedal your going to again open ...allow fluid to come out... and close the valve
(do this until the fluid coming out is clear & bubble free)


TIPS:
1. you start from the right(passenger side) rear caliper then, left rear, then front right, then driver side
(you work from the furthest away from the master cylinder, which is located right behind the brake pedal on the firewall)
2. you have to keep an eye on the reservoir. dont allow it to get to empty because your going to suck in air.
just keep adding more & more fluid into the reservoir as you work along.


trust me the process is easy. i do this once a year on my car brakes, and twice a year on my race-bike(pre track season & mid season).
if you neglect this service, the contaminated brake fluid will weaken the brake lines causing sponging, and the moisture once in the lines quickly works to corrode brake parts, lines and seals, leading to eventual system failure, but worse of all will begin to rust the brake caliper piston- thus causing a seized piston, which causes air gap in the line, which expands under heat = ZERO BRAKE PRESSURE.

on a track-bike when your going 160mph, you demand a lot from your brakes, and quickly learn that there is no better upgrade or maintenance than brakes.

PS: here's the track-toy

hey twister, anything look familiar? lol

bigalexus

Here's a link to DIY spark plug change for a IS350 but its the same for the GS350

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...g-service.html