Does anyone know what size the speakers are located in the door?
#19
Just use a screwdriver with tape on the tip and pry on the side of the cover on the dash- there are 2 clips that snap into the front side of the dash from the grill.- From there it is easy- summing device is best way to go with separate amps. Poster above is right about burning up the amp- if you play at loud volume levels. If you do not play it too loud the amp adjusts output before clipping to try and keep the speaker damped.
#20
Thanks again chauss and swtjlsy! ya'll just turned my one blown speaker into a larger project! . NOw I'm gonna need a clean sweep, another amp and a bunch of other speakers. FML! hahah.
#22
So, what is it that is in the rear deck again other than the sub?
I'm thinking of going with SEAS/Morel/Dynaudio or Scanspeak for everything but the sub. The sub will probably be Dayton or Peerless.
I know it depends on the speaker efficiency, but I'm wondering if the ML amps could at least power the mids or something.
I wonder if there's a way to do a decent passive radiator for the sub setup?
I'm thinking of going with SEAS/Morel/Dynaudio or Scanspeak for everything but the sub. The sub will probably be Dayton or Peerless.
I know it depends on the speaker efficiency, but I'm wondering if the ML amps could at least power the mids or something.
I wonder if there's a way to do a decent passive radiator for the sub setup?
#24
#25
I would not do it...the ML amp has active processing to change the output signal to better control the speakers- I do not think you will find any "quality" speakers that only need 20-30 watts.
So, what is it that is in the rear deck again other than the sub?
I'm thinking of going with SEAS/Morel/Dynaudio or Scanspeak for everything but the sub. The sub will probably be Dayton or Peerless.
I know it depends on the speaker efficiency, but I'm wondering if the ML amps could at least power the mids or something.
I wonder if there's a way to do a decent passive radiator for the sub setup?
I'm thinking of going with SEAS/Morel/Dynaudio or Scanspeak for everything but the sub. The sub will probably be Dayton or Peerless.
I know it depends on the speaker efficiency, but I'm wondering if the ML amps could at least power the mids or something.
I wonder if there's a way to do a decent passive radiator for the sub setup?
#26
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