LEXUS F-SPORT AIR INTAKE for GS430 2007
11-02-11, 11:29 AM
#16
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you seemed to be an expert guy in such things i saw your comment in exhuast/catouts threads
11-02-11, 02:40 PM
#19
You're right about that (sort of). The car was built to be economical and still at the same time still have a little punch to it. many people who have learned to work around the tuning have managed to give it a nice little boost in power.
11-02-11, 04:40 PM
#20
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11-02-11, 04:43 PM
#21
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this one option that i will keep in concern
i saw user spyuae used this type with throttle controller
http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/ProductItem-3360.aspx
i saw user spyuae used this type with throttle controller
http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/ProductItem-3360.aspx
you can have some fun with your car
11-03-11, 02:17 AM
#24
Designo, i very much concur to your power loss statement. The difference between CAI and SRI is that
CAI=more HP
SRI= more TQ
The reason why you "feel" power loss is because the design of a CAI is to yield more HP, sometimes it pulls back TQ on your engine.
And also, please explain how a CAI would have a higher chance of a fouled MAF vs a SRI. Common sense would tell you that a SRI has a shorter pipe, has quicker access to dirt that can reach the MAF sensor vs a CAI.
CAI=more HP
SRI= more TQ
The reason why you "feel" power loss is because the design of a CAI is to yield more HP, sometimes it pulls back TQ on your engine.
And also, please explain how a CAI would have a higher chance of a fouled MAF vs a SRI. Common sense would tell you that a SRI has a shorter pipe, has quicker access to dirt that can reach the MAF sensor vs a CAI.
If the intake system is contained within an airbox, and has air access only through the front air dams or ducts of the vehicle, then it's fine! I believe performance may improve slightly. A "RAM" effect is even more efficient and can yield good gains!
However, if the intake system is an open type system where you will have a cone filter sitting there in your engine bay with no direct un-obstructed air intake access through a duct... you will lose power. This is due to the fact that the cone filter will in most cases just suck in hot engine bay air, especially when car is stationary!
The reason why I am not encouraged by most after market filters is because most of them come oiled. The oil can foul the MAF's causing them to malfunction!
Another suggestion I have is to locate the IATS ( Internal Air Temp Sensor ) of your car, and try to relocate that sensor to a location closer to the air intake ducts and away from the engine! That way, you fool your car into lower intake readings ( especially in traffic ) and allow your ECU to keep timing slightly advanced giving you better performance.
My .02
11-03-11, 08:15 AM
#25
I might have been mistaken on a few points, but here's my take:
If the intake system is contained within an airbox, and has air access only through the front air dams or ducts of the vehicle, then it's fine! I believe performance may improve slightly. A "RAM" effect is even more efficient and can yield good gains!
However, if the intake system is an open type system where you will have a cone filter sitting there in your engine bay with no direct un-obstructed air intake access through a duct... you will lose power. This is due to the fact that the cone filter will in most cases just suck in hot engine bay air, especially when car is stationary!
The reason why I am not encouraged by most after market filters is because most of them come oiled. The oil can foul the MAF's causing them to malfunction!
Another suggestion I have is to locate the IATS ( Internal Air Temp Sensor ) of your car, and try to relocate that sensor to a location closer to the air intake ducts and away from the engine! That way, you fool your car into lower intake readings ( especially in traffic ) and allow your ECU to keep timing slightly advanced giving you better performance.
My .02
If the intake system is contained within an airbox, and has air access only through the front air dams or ducts of the vehicle, then it's fine! I believe performance may improve slightly. A "RAM" effect is even more efficient and can yield good gains!
However, if the intake system is an open type system where you will have a cone filter sitting there in your engine bay with no direct un-obstructed air intake access through a duct... you will lose power. This is due to the fact that the cone filter will in most cases just suck in hot engine bay air, especially when car is stationary!
The reason why I am not encouraged by most after market filters is because most of them come oiled. The oil can foul the MAF's causing them to malfunction!
Another suggestion I have is to locate the IATS ( Internal Air Temp Sensor ) of your car, and try to relocate that sensor to a location closer to the air intake ducts and away from the engine! That way, you fool your car into lower intake readings ( especially in traffic ) and allow your ECU to keep timing slightly advanced giving you better performance.
My .02
. I'd like to add that these aftermarket filters in no way do they ever optimally filter dirt and grime out for the road. Therefore my theory is that would eventually dirty up the MAF and other components in the engine. One way that's been proven to always give you pretty good gains, is to build a carbon fiber/fiberglass intank (not very hard at all). Since metal absorbs engine bay heat, plastic does not, and you'd yield pretty good gains that way also . I'll eventually work on this to replace my factory piping and will post back with my results
11-23-11, 05:37 AM
#26
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I might have been mistaken on a few points, but here's my take:
If the intake system is contained within an airbox, and has air access only through the front air dams or ducts of the vehicle, then it's fine! I believe performance may improve slightly. A "RAM" effect is even more efficient and can yield good gains!
However, if the intake system is an open type system where you will have a cone filter sitting there in your engine bay with no direct un-obstructed air intake access through a duct... you will lose power. This is due to the fact that the cone filter will in most cases just suck in hot engine bay air, especially when car is stationary!
The reason why I am not encouraged by most after market filters is because most of them come oiled. The oil can foul the MAF's causing them to malfunction!
Another suggestion I have is to locate the IATS ( Internal Air Temp Sensor ) of your car, and try to relocate that sensor to a location closer to the air intake ducts and away from the engine! That way, you fool your car into lower intake readings ( especially in traffic ) and allow your ECU to keep timing slightly advanced giving you better performance.
My .02
If the intake system is contained within an airbox, and has air access only through the front air dams or ducts of the vehicle, then it's fine! I believe performance may improve slightly. A "RAM" effect is even more efficient and can yield good gains!
However, if the intake system is an open type system where you will have a cone filter sitting there in your engine bay with no direct un-obstructed air intake access through a duct... you will lose power. This is due to the fact that the cone filter will in most cases just suck in hot engine bay air, especially when car is stationary!
The reason why I am not encouraged by most after market filters is because most of them come oiled. The oil can foul the MAF's causing them to malfunction!
Another suggestion I have is to locate the IATS ( Internal Air Temp Sensor ) of your car, and try to relocate that sensor to a location closer to the air intake ducts and away from the engine! That way, you fool your car into lower intake readings ( especially in traffic ) and allow your ECU to keep timing slightly advanced giving you better performance.
My .02
BUT i still need help here
if i buy IS 350 f sport intake filter
will the intake pipe and f sport filter fit my 06 lexus gs430????
i know the lower box is hard to fit due to differnce in shape and bolts location
11-23-11, 10:21 PM
#27
dude, everyone's been trying to explain to you that the 2GR-FSE components do NOT fit the 3UZ-FE engine. You can NEVER put these two together... I've told you many times and you just skipped over me like i'm retarded or something...
YOU HAVE TO BUY 3UZ COMPONENTS FOR 3UZ ENGINE
YOU HAVE TO BUY 3UZ COMPONENTS FOR 3UZ ENGINE
11-24-11, 05:48 AM
#28
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dude, everyone's been trying to explain to you that the 2GR-FSE components do NOT fit the 3UZ-FE engine. You can NEVER put these two together... I've told you many times and you just skipped over me like i'm retarded or something...
YOU HAVE TO BUY 3UZ COMPONENTS FOR 3UZ ENGINE
YOU HAVE TO BUY 3UZ COMPONENTS FOR 3UZ ENGINE
I M ONLY LOOKING FOR MORE INFO BEFORE DOING SOMETHING WRONG
I think there nothing wrong to ask and get more help from others
thanks again
11-24-11, 01:23 PM
#29
It's not that you're asking for help about it that irritates me, it's that you keep asking about the WRONG parts dude, you gotta look for GS430 intake parts, not GS350.... The poster of that ebay listing listed it all wrong. I've been trying to tell you NOT to buy it so you dont have the headache of purchasing wrong parts.
If you want, passnu's done an intake on our GS430's.... They're SRT intakes for the older-gen GS's.
If you want, passnu's done an intake on our GS430's.... They're SRT intakes for the older-gen GS's.
