Installation of HID in DRLs/Hi-Beams!
#61
thanks to the help of xxgokouxx, we found out that the 15amp fuse blew so i replaced that and tried the install again. DRL worked but when i flipped the high beams, something happened and blew out the replaced 15 amp fuse. Good thing i bought extra. Anyway here is the relay set up, capacitors, and a pic of one of the ballasts and bulb.
#62
something is wrong with the relay lex.... tell them to send you a new unit and if possible, a new HID kit with it, JUST in case that was the problem.
As far as the eye can see, the whole kit looks legit.
As far as the eye can see, the whole kit looks legit.
#63
EDIT: I keep adding to the darn thread, sorry folks for the loooong looong posts Here's the exact quote I got from myself off the other thread.
Here is how the HID kit works:
This first photo is with the hi-beams and the low-beams on.... It's when i pull the lever back.
This second photo is when I turn on the car, no low-beams, no hi-beams, just DRLs on.
This photo is the low-beams on ONLY, (the middle hi-beams shut off).
ENJOY! (BTW, all the lights are the same, just some took a bit of time to warm up and i think the fact that outside it was getting cloudy and sunny back and forth, it gave the colors of the bulbs a different look).
Here is how the HID kit works:
This first photo is with the hi-beams and the low-beams on.... It's when i pull the lever back.
This second photo is when I turn on the car, no low-beams, no hi-beams, just DRLs on.
This photo is the low-beams on ONLY, (the middle hi-beams shut off).
ENJOY! (BTW, all the lights are the same, just some took a bit of time to warm up and i think the fact that outside it was getting cloudy and sunny back and forth, it gave the colors of the bulbs a different look).
Does FHP or any other law enforcement organization give you any s*** about the bluish tint to your lights?
#65
FHP gives me no trouble, it isn't a dark blue tint that police lights have. It's an ice blue, it's just much more hue'd in camera than in real life .
As for the brand of HIDs, I got my set from HIDpro, but as always, I recommend purchasing from our various vendors that supply HID kits.
#66
to answer your first question, i meant the high-beam connection yes.
to the second question, when i meant headlight, i meant high-beam... forgive me as i'm still fighting a cold and my brain's a bit off.
to the 3rd question, no consequences at all.... all the power being used comes directly from the 12v BATTERY connection. Like I said, the hi-beam/DRL power draw is only as a remote wire, and you only need one remote wire to activate an array of amplifiers in the back of your vehicle, right?
to the second question, when i meant headlight, i meant high-beam... forgive me as i'm still fighting a cold and my brain's a bit off.
to the 3rd question, no consequences at all.... all the power being used comes directly from the 12v BATTERY connection. Like I said, the hi-beam/DRL power draw is only as a remote wire, and you only need one remote wire to activate an array of amplifiers in the back of your vehicle, right?
Actually no.........audiophile here....... the current Draw from the Average Aftermarket Headunit on the Remote output wire is only 500mA........you can power up more than 1 device if you want to with that measly spec.....but me sir, I use a 30a relay to power 6 devices (2 amps, 1 bass Processor, 1 Crossover, and 2 Fans) on my setup, but thats just the obsessed experienced 12v electrician in me talking.....hence why I re-iterate most modern Processors/LOCs these days have their own separate dedicated remote output of 2 amps built into the terminals next to the remote input so you can power multiple devices without the need to purchase and/or wire relays........
Last edited by NickyDishes; 10-23-23 at 04:47 PM. Reason: Mispelk
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