Change interior trim- Is it possible?
#16
Check ebay often, putting parts together, you'll probably be fortunate enough to either break even or lose 200-$300 when selling your old stuff and slapping your new stuff on. It will take some patience though
Also very much agreed with Boron, any "wraps" besides a solid color will and always WILL look cheap. The texture just isn't there.
As for the plastidip, i'd say go for it, i don't know how you'll paint your steering wheel matte black, that's gonna be a tough one (unless you take it out). Just make sure you use http://www.dipyourcar.com/
Reason why I say this is because it's a perfect mixture of the thinner, so it gives you a proper flat black look, not that retarded "spray can" flat black look
Also very much agreed with Boron, any "wraps" besides a solid color will and always WILL look cheap. The texture just isn't there.
As for the plastidip, i'd say go for it, i don't know how you'll paint your steering wheel matte black, that's gonna be a tough one (unless you take it out). Just make sure you use http://www.dipyourcar.com/
Reason why I say this is because it's a perfect mixture of the thinner, so it gives you a proper flat black look, not that retarded "spray can" flat black look
#17
Driver School Candidate
Home Made Black Wood Trim
If you want it bad enough, my recommendation would be to remove the wood pieces, strip the poly finish, sand them very carefully, with very fine sandpaper, to an ultra smooth finish, use a Tack Cloth to remove any dust, stain the pieces with MinWax Water Based (Clear Tint Base) Onyx colored stain , allow to dry completely, sand lightly to smooth out the raised wood grain, remove dust again, then apply three coats of clear polyurethane (I would use spray) sanding with very fine sandpaper and removing the dust between each coat. You could go Gloss, Semi-Gloss or even a Matte finish. Whatever trips your trigger.
Allow the parts to dry for at least two days in a non-humid environment (preferably air conditioned) so they have completely cured to full hardness before re-installing.
If you're careful and patient with the process you should be very happy with the results.
Let me know if you go for it. I'd like to see your results.
Good luck.
Allow the parts to dry for at least two days in a non-humid environment (preferably air conditioned) so they have completely cured to full hardness before re-installing.
If you're careful and patient with the process you should be very happy with the results.
Let me know if you go for it. I'd like to see your results.
Good luck.
#18
If you want it bad enough, my recommendation would be to remove the wood pieces, strip the poly finish, sand them very carefully, with very fine sandpaper, to an ultra smooth finish, use a Tack Cloth to remove any dust, stain the pieces with MinWax Water Based (Clear Tint Base) Onyx colored stain , allow to dry completely, sand lightly to smooth out the raised wood grain, remove dust again, then apply three coats of clear polyurethane (I would use spray) sanding with very fine sandpaper and removing the dust between each coat. You could go Gloss, Semi-Gloss or even a Matte finish. Whatever trips your trigger.
Allow the parts to dry for at least two days in a non-humid environment (preferably air conditioned) so they have completely cured to full hardness before re-installing.
If you're careful and patient with the process you should be very happy with the results.
Let me know if you go for it. I'd like to see your results.
Good luck.
Allow the parts to dry for at least two days in a non-humid environment (preferably air conditioned) so they have completely cured to full hardness before re-installing.
If you're careful and patient with the process you should be very happy with the results.
Let me know if you go for it. I'd like to see your results.
Good luck.
#19
Driver School Candidate
Home Made Black Wood Trim
Totally understand, but that's why those parts cost $1200. They're like fine furniture.
I sure wouldn't paint them or PlastiDip them though. PlastiDip would make them look like a Ford Escort or something similar. A Probe maybe?
Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap may work, but the steering wheel's gonna be the trick. That's why I suggested re-finishing the wood. It would look sick!, But you'd have to pull the steering wheel and then a couple of days for it to dry, cause Poly has to cure good or it's sticky and will ruin the finish.
Hang in there!
I sure wouldn't paint them or PlastiDip them though. PlastiDip would make them look like a Ford Escort or something similar. A Probe maybe?
Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap may work, but the steering wheel's gonna be the trick. That's why I suggested re-finishing the wood. It would look sick!, But you'd have to pull the steering wheel and then a couple of days for it to dry, cause Poly has to cure good or it's sticky and will ruin the finish.
Hang in there!
#20
Totally understand, but that's why those parts cost $1200. They're like fine furniture.
I sure wouldn't paint them or PlastiDip them though. PlastiDip would make them look like a Ford Escort or something similar. A Probe maybe?
Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap may work, but the steering wheel's gonna be the trick. That's why I suggested re-finishing the wood. It would look sick!, But you'd have to pull the steering wheel and then a couple of days for it to dry, cause Poly has to cure good or it's sticky and will ruin the finish.
Hang in there!
I sure wouldn't paint them or PlastiDip them though. PlastiDip would make them look like a Ford Escort or something similar. A Probe maybe?
Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap may work, but the steering wheel's gonna be the trick. That's why I suggested re-finishing the wood. It would look sick!, But you'd have to pull the steering wheel and then a couple of days for it to dry, cause Poly has to cure good or it's sticky and will ruin the finish.
Hang in there!
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