Official Lexus GS Oil Thread
07-31-12, 10:25 PM
#16
Moderator
Thread Starter
Sorry 07LXgs350, I use the same stuff too, nothing but the best for my car 
It's not as good an oil as I thought it would be, hence switching over to the Redline stuff! I've loved it ever since. Will definitely never go back
It's not as good an oil as I thought it would be, hence switching over to the Redline stuff! I've loved it ever since. Will definitely never go back
08-01-12, 05:20 AM
#17
Don't mean to burst your 'oil' bubble, but unless your driving habits/route are identical using different brands or viscosity, your mpg comparisons are baseless. In other words (and trying to be polite), you've been inhaling fumes you should avoid.
Do four identical highway only runs (totalling 1,500 miles) using an entire tank of gas (same brand & octane) on the same day/time using brand 1 and then do the same using brand 2 (make sure tire pressure is the same upon a cold start). Then I'd say you have some scientific data that may carry 'weight' (pardon the pun).
Do four identical highway only runs (totalling 1,500 miles) using an entire tank of gas (same brand & octane) on the same day/time using brand 1 and then do the same using brand 2 (make sure tire pressure is the same upon a cold start). Then I'd say you have some scientific data that may carry 'weight' (pardon the pun).
Remember those good 'ol chemistry classes? When performing experiments, all non-testing elements (the controlled elements) need to be identical for each test. In the MPG testing, it's impossible to do by someone driving on real streets. That's why you always see the fine print, which says "actual mileage may vary". Oil brand and viscosity is the last thing I'd try to improve fuel economy. The first thing I'd concentrate on is the tuning of my car's engine...sorry OP
08-01-12, 07:10 AM
#18
Moderator
Thread Starter
i agree kev, but unlike what bushwack said, I've been driving the same route week after week, doing the same habits, and it's been consistent in MPG ratings. I don't get why you guys need to get so technical on me and how I gain my MPG ratings..... this was a 2 fill-up testing phase so far... going on the 3rd now. I've even attempted to waste more gas (WOT'ing on highway ramps and some traffic lights) just because. So I still stick by my words, oil has quite a bit of an impact on how you save gas, economically (same with tires, alignments, weight, etc.), take it how you guys want to, I just post my results to further help members out if they're just "wondering".
08-01-12, 08:21 AM
#19
Don't get defensive GoKoU, just learn to accept some people (or in certain conditions) will want empirical data rather than anecdotal evidence to chew on.
http://www.eneos.us/files/products/0W20_comparison.pdf - how Redlline's 0w-20 stacks up against that, I'm not sure.
One thing to point out about lowering the grade of oil used, is that the oil becomes more easily sheerable.
Whilst you might gain in mpg slightly, the offset is at the possible expense of bearing and piston ring/wall protection.
On that note, check the HTHS figures of all the oils you're considering, as well as the kinematic viscosity at 40ºC and 100ºC.
From those alone, you can derive which oils are going to offer better protection/fuel economy balance.
As you can see from the link to another forum, I posted up incredible mpg figures for a 3L V6, but that was on a very long run and with the cruise active, which does make a difference.
Now that I'm doing my typical journeys, the figure is down to 32-33 mpg (imperial remember!), and is a result of the cruise, hypermiling, off the pedal on down slopes, and generally tickling the throttle pedal at all times.
For me, 0w-30 is as low as I'd be willing to go, since even at sub-3K revs, a 20 weight oil just doesn't inspire confidence due to the low HTHS, let alone having some fun at the sharp end of the rev counter.
An oil analysis would prove how well it was/wasn't protecting, but if it's not, the damage is already done.
The difference between a previous 30 weight result would indicate the long term effect of running the lower grade oil.
http://www.eneos.us/files/products/0W20_comparison.pdf - how Redlline's 0w-20 stacks up against that, I'm not sure.
One thing to point out about lowering the grade of oil used, is that the oil becomes more easily sheerable.
Whilst you might gain in mpg slightly, the offset is at the possible expense of bearing and piston ring/wall protection.
On that note, check the HTHS figures of all the oils you're considering, as well as the kinematic viscosity at 40ºC and 100ºC.
From those alone, you can derive which oils are going to offer better protection/fuel economy balance.
As you can see from the link to another forum, I posted up incredible mpg figures for a 3L V6, but that was on a very long run and with the cruise active, which does make a difference.
Now that I'm doing my typical journeys, the figure is down to 32-33 mpg (imperial remember!), and is a result of the cruise, hypermiling, off the pedal on down slopes, and generally tickling the throttle pedal at all times.
For me, 0w-30 is as low as I'd be willing to go, since even at sub-3K revs, a 20 weight oil just doesn't inspire confidence due to the low HTHS, let alone having some fun at the sharp end of the rev counter.
An oil analysis would prove how well it was/wasn't protecting, but if it's not, the damage is already done.
The difference between a previous 30 weight result would indicate the long term effect of running the lower grade oil.
08-02-12, 01:36 AM
#21
Moderator
Thread Starter
Don't get defensive GoKoU, just learn to accept some people (or in certain conditions) will want empirical data rather than anecdotal evidence to chew on.
http://www.eneos.us/files/products/0W20_comparison.pdf - how Redlline's 0w-20 stacks up against that, I'm not sure.
One thing to point out about lowering the grade of oil used, is that the oil becomes more easily sheerable.
Whilst you might gain in mpg slightly, the offset is at the possible expense of bearing and piston ring/wall protection.
On that note, check the HTHS figures of all the oils you're considering, as well as the kinematic viscosity at 40ºC and 100ºC.
From those alone, you can derive which oils are going to offer better protection/fuel economy balance.
As you can see from the link to another forum, I posted up incredible mpg figures for a 3L V6, but that was on a very long run and with the cruise active, which does make a difference.
Now that I'm doing my typical journeys, the figure is down to 32-33 mpg (imperial remember!), and is a result of the cruise, hypermiling, off the pedal on down slopes, and generally tickling the throttle pedal at all times.
For me, 0w-30 is as low as I'd be willing to go, since even at sub-3K revs, a 20 weight oil just doesn't inspire confidence due to the low HTHS, let alone having some fun at the sharp end of the rev counter.
An oil analysis would prove how well it was/wasn't protecting, but if it's not, the damage is already done.
The difference between a previous 30 weight result would indicate the long term effect of running the lower grade oil.
http://www.eneos.us/files/products/0W20_comparison.pdf - how Redlline's 0w-20 stacks up against that, I'm not sure.
One thing to point out about lowering the grade of oil used, is that the oil becomes more easily sheerable.
Whilst you might gain in mpg slightly, the offset is at the possible expense of bearing and piston ring/wall protection.
On that note, check the HTHS figures of all the oils you're considering, as well as the kinematic viscosity at 40ºC and 100ºC.
From those alone, you can derive which oils are going to offer better protection/fuel economy balance.
As you can see from the link to another forum, I posted up incredible mpg figures for a 3L V6, but that was on a very long run and with the cruise active, which does make a difference.
Now that I'm doing my typical journeys, the figure is down to 32-33 mpg (imperial remember!), and is a result of the cruise, hypermiling, off the pedal on down slopes, and generally tickling the throttle pedal at all times.
For me, 0w-30 is as low as I'd be willing to go, since even at sub-3K revs, a 20 weight oil just doesn't inspire confidence due to the low HTHS, let alone having some fun at the sharp end of the rev counter.
An oil analysis would prove how well it was/wasn't protecting, but if it's not, the damage is already done.
The difference between a previous 30 weight result would indicate the long term effect of running the lower grade oil.
.Anywho, thank you for the informative information! I will have to do a bit more reading into it, so far with all my reading and talking to a few oil guru's, including people who race with 1100HP cars (I had to special order my oil at a race shop). Lowering weight, within limits, won't destroy an engine if, exactly like you said, the oil as some great protection. Just to further confirm for myself, i'll do a bit more reading on the oil weight
heh, Royal Purp is garbage.... in a thread a few months ago, I mistook it for Redline for some reason.... All in all, it's been tried and tested in the Oil forums and been known to be overhyped garbage
08-02-12, 03:45 AM
#22
on my '06 430, I've always used M1 w/ changes every 4-5k miles. 65k miles now. I consistently get 24-25mpg on road trips. Usually run 10mph over and don't use cruise. Just came off a trip from ATL to the western mountains of NC (lots of hills and stop and go). Two tanks on that trip were 25.0 and 24.7 (calculated, not the trip meter, although it was within a few tenths each time). I went 380 miles on the last tank before filling up, but range was down to under 10 miles. Even with that, I only got 15.38 gal in the tank, so nearly 2.5 gal left even though I was showing "empty" based on range. On a previous trip to Charlotte with cruise set about 7mph over I calculated 26.5 average across both directions. Around town I generally get around 21-22 which IMO, for a 300hp V8 sedan is still pretty decent. Not to pile on, but agree it's likely more related to driving style and technique than oil choice.
OP - I'd still be interested in seeing the results of your oil analysis once it comes back.
Edit: I've logged every fuel stop for the last 35k miles so have good data on this stuff.
OP - I'd still be interested in seeing the results of your oil analysis once it comes back.
Edit: I've logged every fuel stop for the last 35k miles so have good data on this stuff.
Last edited by twylie; 08-02-12 at 03:49 AM.
08-02-12, 06:50 AM
#24
I will have to do a bit more reading into it, so far with all my reading and talking to a few oil guru's, including people who race with 1100HP cars (I had to special order my oil at a race shop). Lowering weight, within limits, won't destroy an engine if, exactly like you said, the oil as some great protection. Just to further confirm for myself, i'll do a bit more reading on the oil weight
The primary reason for doing so, is sheer stability - where the high HTHS number comes into play.
When you say 'oil gurus' are you referring to bobistheoilguy members?
As much as I know you want to figure this out for yourself, but I really would advise not getting too carried away with things, and jumping into bed with a 20 weight oil.
Those are best left for the low powered econoboxes like the Prius and sub-100 hp 'city' cars.
For the poke our GSes have, stick with a very good 30 weight, and learn to drive to the road further ahead if you want to save visiting the gas stations as often.
Search for 'hypermiling', and you'll understand where you're wasting fuel.
Sure it's not as much fun, but at least when you do mash the loud pedal, you'll be doing it to blow out some of the low-speed cobwebs, as much as to give yourself an indulgent treat.
08-02-12, 06:51 AM
#25
08-02-12, 08:18 PM
#26
One thing I bet you'll find common amongst those high horsepower cars, especially racing ones, is they'll all be using a Xw-50 or even a 60 weight oil.
The primary reason for doing so, is sheer stability - where the high HTHS number comes into play.
When you say 'oil gurus' are you referring to bobistheoilguy members?
As much as I know you want to figure this out for yourself, but I really would advise not getting too carried away with things, and jumping into bed with a 20 weight oil.
Those are best left for the low powered econoboxes like the Prius and sub-100 hp 'city' cars.
For the poke our GSes have, stick with a very good 30 weight, and learn to drive to the road further ahead if you want to save visiting the gas stations as often.
Search for 'hypermiling', and you'll understand where you're wasting fuel.
Sure it's not as much fun, but at least when you do mash the loud pedal, you'll be doing it to blow out some of the low-speed cobwebs, as much as to give yourself an indulgent treat.
The primary reason for doing so, is sheer stability - where the high HTHS number comes into play.
When you say 'oil gurus' are you referring to bobistheoilguy members?
As much as I know you want to figure this out for yourself, but I really would advise not getting too carried away with things, and jumping into bed with a 20 weight oil.
Those are best left for the low powered econoboxes like the Prius and sub-100 hp 'city' cars.
For the poke our GSes have, stick with a very good 30 weight, and learn to drive to the road further ahead if you want to save visiting the gas stations as often.
Search for 'hypermiling', and you'll understand where you're wasting fuel.
Sure it's not as much fun, but at least when you do mash the loud pedal, you'll be doing it to blow out some of the low-speed cobwebs, as much as to give yourself an indulgent treat.
08-02-12, 09:30 PM
#27
Moderator
Thread Starter
One thing I bet you'll find common amongst those high horsepower cars, especially racing ones, is they'll all be using a Xw-50 or even a 60 weight oil.
The primary reason for doing so, is sheer stability - where the high HTHS number comes into play.
When you say 'oil gurus' are you referring to bobistheoilguy members?
As much as I know you want to figure this out for yourself, but I really would advise not getting too carried away with things, and jumping into bed with a 20 weight oil.
Those are best left for the low powered econoboxes like the Prius and sub-100 hp 'city' cars.
For the poke our GSes have, stick with a very good 30 weight, and learn to drive to the road further ahead if you want to save visiting the gas stations as often.
Search for 'hypermiling', and you'll understand where you're wasting fuel.
Sure it's not as much fun, but at least when you do mash the loud pedal, you'll be doing it to blow out some of the low-speed cobwebs, as much as to give yourself an indulgent treat.
The primary reason for doing so, is sheer stability - where the high HTHS number comes into play.
When you say 'oil gurus' are you referring to bobistheoilguy members?
As much as I know you want to figure this out for yourself, but I really would advise not getting too carried away with things, and jumping into bed with a 20 weight oil.
Those are best left for the low powered econoboxes like the Prius and sub-100 hp 'city' cars.
For the poke our GSes have, stick with a very good 30 weight, and learn to drive to the road further ahead if you want to save visiting the gas stations as often.
Search for 'hypermiling', and you'll understand where you're wasting fuel.
Sure it's not as much fun, but at least when you do mash the loud pedal, you'll be doing it to blow out some of the low-speed cobwebs, as much as to give yourself an indulgent treat.
Like you said, I may stick to 0w-30 for now... Possibly keep 0w-20 for my mother's van I'm currently on 5w-20 right now.on my '06 430, I've always used M1 w/ changes every 4-5k miles. 65k miles now. I consistently get 24-25mpg on road trips. Usually run 10mph over and don't use cruise. Just came off a trip from ATL to the western mountains of NC (lots of hills and stop and go). Two tanks on that trip were 25.0 and 24.7 (calculated, not the trip meter, although it was within a few tenths each time). I went 380 miles on the last tank before filling up, but range was down to under 10 miles. Even with that, I only got 15.38 gal in the tank, so nearly 2.5 gal left even though I was showing "empty" based on range. On a previous trip to Charlotte with cruise set about 7mph over I calculated 26.5 average across both directions. Around town I generally get around 21-22 which IMO, for a 300hp V8 sedan is still pretty decent. Not to pile on, but agree it's likely more related to driving style and technique than oil choice.
OP - I'd still be interested in seeing the results of your oil analysis once it comes back.
Edit: I've logged every fuel stop for the last 35k miles so have good data on this stuff.
OP - I'd still be interested in seeing the results of your oil analysis once it comes back.
Edit: I've logged every fuel stop for the last 35k miles so have good data on this stuff.
08-04-12, 12:51 PM
#28
Just drove from Phoenix to upstate New York (left 7/29 arrived yesterday - 8/3). Just prior to embarking on the trip I replaced the engine and cabin filters, and changed the oil/filter. I've been running Mobil1 5W-30 since the 5k mile mark, with changes occurring approximately every 7500 miles.
I had 42273 miles on the car at the beginning of the trip, and have driven 2544 miles to date. My mpg at the time of each fill-up except in Flagstaff, AZ exceeded 30 mpg (28.7 at the fill-up in Flagstaff). I feel the GS is an outstanding cruiser, and have NO complaints/concerns regarding performance or mpg. Mobil1 is also what I use in my BMW and my wife's RX350, although her car calls for 0W-20 weight.
My trip will continue through the mid-Atlantic states to Georgia, then returning to AZ. I anticipate zero problems.
I had 42273 miles on the car at the beginning of the trip, and have driven 2544 miles to date. My mpg at the time of each fill-up except in Flagstaff, AZ exceeded 30 mpg (28.7 at the fill-up in Flagstaff). I feel the GS is an outstanding cruiser, and have NO complaints/concerns regarding performance or mpg. Mobil1 is also what I use in my BMW and my wife's RX350, although her car calls for 0W-20 weight.
My trip will continue through the mid-Atlantic states to Georgia, then returning to AZ. I anticipate zero problems.
08-05-12, 08:41 AM
#30
I go with what has been a winner for me for years. Consider - my dealer uses non-synthetic Shell oil. Mobil1 is a tremendous improvement - and what's good enough for Corvette and Porsche is good enough for me.