GS300 Claybared, Sealed and Waxed
01-04-13, 05:23 AM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
GS300 Claybared, Sealed and Waxed
Sorry, crappy iphone pics.
Claybared, Sealed and Waxed but i'm still seeing water spots everywhere.
GS300 (Flint Mica)
ML + isimple mod
Plastidip rear emblems (flat black)
Vossen CV4 Matte Graphite Machined (enroute)
Lowering mod possible (RCA blocks or springs)
Claybared, Sealed and Waxed but i'm still seeing water spots everywhere.
GS300 (Flint Mica)
ML + isimple mod
Plastidip rear emblems (flat black)
Vossen CV4 Matte Graphite Machined (enroute)
Lowering mod possible (RCA blocks or springs)
Last edited by benztolex; 01-04-13 at 05:28 AM. Reason: Deleted links
01-04-13, 06:57 AM
#4
Waterspots are just a function of mineral deposits in your water (known as hard water) and can easily be eradicated by final rinsing with deionised water via a resin vessel (sheeting with a low flow rate after rinsing the shampoo first) or using this.
If the deposits have etched into the paintwork, you'll need to use a polisher, but if you're not au fait with how to wield one properly, then a dual action is your safest option.
Lexus, like most Japanese paints is fairly soft, so you won't need a heavy abrasive nor firm pads - a medium pad with light cut and the same or refining polish on a soft should do the trick.
Try the soft and refining first, before stepping up to the light cut, and if a pass or two isn't having the desired effect, swap to the medium pad.
If the deposits have etched into the paintwork, you'll need to use a polisher, but if you're not au fait with how to wield one properly, then a dual action is your safest option.
Lexus, like most Japanese paints is fairly soft, so you won't need a heavy abrasive nor firm pads - a medium pad with light cut and the same or refining polish on a soft should do the trick.
Try the soft and refining first, before stepping up to the light cut, and if a pass or two isn't having the desired effect, swap to the medium pad.
Last edited by Boron; 01-04-13 at 07:02 AM.
01-04-13, 10:30 AM
#6
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Waterspots are just a function of mineral deposits in your water (known as hard water) and can easily be eradicated by final rinsing with deionised water via a resin vessel (sheeting with a low flow rate after rinsing the shampoo first) or using this.
If the deposits have etched into the paintwork, you'll need to use a polisher, but if you're not au fait with how to wield one properly, then a dual action is your safest option.
Lexus, like most Japanese paints is fairly soft, so you won't need a heavy abrasive nor firm pads - a medium pad with light cut and the same or refining polish on a soft should do the trick.
Try the soft and refining first, before stepping up to the light cut, and if a pass or two isn't having the desired effect, swap to the medium pad.
If the deposits have etched into the paintwork, you'll need to use a polisher, but if you're not au fait with how to wield one properly, then a dual action is your safest option.
Lexus, like most Japanese paints is fairly soft, so you won't need a heavy abrasive nor firm pads - a medium pad with light cut and the same or refining polish on a soft should do the trick.
Try the soft and refining first, before stepping up to the light cut, and if a pass or two isn't having the desired effect, swap to the medium pad.
Thanks Vossen! I'm a fan. My third set of Vossens. Thanks for your wonderful wheel and customer service. I would vouch for your brand any day.
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01-06-13, 06:06 PM
#8
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
01-08-13, 02:43 PM
#11
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...se-a-clay-bar/
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars/auto-clay-regular
Should enlighten you to the world of claying your paintwork.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...se-a-clay-bar/
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars/auto-clay-regular
Should enlighten you to the world of claying your paintwork.
07-03-13, 07:40 AM
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter