Rear Caliper Issue
#31
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Here are some photos. The new shiney pins are the ones I ordered and are the same ones that a couple auto part stores had in stock, which are the original ones for the rear calipers before the recall and them changing out the bracket or the calipers. The hex pin matches perfectly. It's the other pin that does not which I need to find ASAP.
Last edited by Buddiiee; 10-14-17 at 12:47 PM.
#32
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Just an update: Dam, my 2011 is350 has the SAME problem. Rear calipers seizing and I ordered replacement pins and they're the wrong pins. Local dealership says they see nothing wrong and can't figure out why there's a discrepancy... Hell, the dust boots don't even fit around these new pins, so there must be an updated dust boot too. Ugh...
#33
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Happens a lot. If you don't want new calipers just get that pin our and sand it down so it's smooth as can be then grease up and put back together. I took both pins to the dealer and said tell me how this is the same pin. They couldn't answer. It was because of the recall when they did it and changed out but the part number still shows that smaller pin. Crazy stuff for sure.
#35
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For example to see what I'm saying, yank the top slider pin out and just slide the caliper on the bottom pin, but start it all the way out. fit the caliper about 3/4" onto the pin and let it hang. Now try to slowly push the caliper in; it won't go will it. Cuz that slide pins trying to go in on an angle now. That tight tolerance keeps it level and straight, sliding directly in and out. What I bet's happening is that dust boot falls off of one of the sides, and allows water in there. From there it's a done deal. I don't care WHAT kind of good grease you got in there that water's rusting that ***** period.
I sent out for some brake hardware, got it in, then sent it to Robar Industries to have it coated in NP3 plus, so it'll NEVER rust again. Come to find out I have the updated pin that doesn't fit just like everyone else here. I'm ****ing PISSED. Now I have to hunt junkyards for some old used ****, torch it, yank it out, clean it up and have that coated instead. I wanna do this ONCE, and NEVER screw with it again. Almost got it lol.
https://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/np3-plus/
Ive had other stuff coated in this and it's no joke. The rest of my hardwares coated in this stuff except the very pin I needed lol.
#36
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Ok, I think I found the right pins for us.
I ordered what I suspected is the correct pin, and while I couldn't get my factory pin out of my factory bracket, I matched everything up but the threads and it's dead on. The length is correct, the outside diameter of the pin, the "above threads" length is correct, the "below threads" length is correct, and the dust boot "retainer lip" height and outside diameter is correct.
The only thing I can't personally verify is the thread pitch and diameter.
If anyone here wants to try this experiment that can get their oem pin out of their oem bracket, try part number 14246 from Carlson or Dorman. Now I got mine from O'reilly's on a hunch that it's the exact same part from Carlsons and I was right. The rest of the planet including my Lexus dealer and their higher ups seems to think 14208 is the right number for our IS rear caliper slide pins. Well we've all disproven that many times already as you can see lol. I have an open dialogue with Carlson the aftermarket brake parts supplier about this issue to let them know that I think the aftermarket received the NEW blueprints to these updated pins, not the ORIGINAL, which most of us still have in real life. So when I get an old beat up used caliper bracket from someone that I can tear up to get the pin out I'll verify thread pitch but I really don't see Lexus using something SUPER close but different just for ****s & giggles.
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If anyone here wants to try this experiment that can get their oem pin out of their oem bracket, try part number 14246 from Carlson or Dorman. Now I got mine from O'reilly's on a hunch that it's the exact same part from Carlsons and I was right. The rest of the planet including my Lexus dealer and their higher ups seems to think 14208 is the right number for our IS rear caliper slide pins. Well we've all disproven that many times already as you can see lol. I have an open dialogue with Carlson the aftermarket brake parts supplier about this issue to let them know that I think the aftermarket received the NEW blueprints to these updated pins, not the ORIGINAL, which most of us still have in real life. So when I get an old beat up used caliper bracket from someone that I can tear up to get the pin out I'll verify thread pitch but I really don't see Lexus using something SUPER close but different just for ****s & giggles.
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#37
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Ok, I think I found the right pins for us.
I ordered what I suspected is the correct pin, and while I couldn't get my factory pin out of my factory bracket, I matched everything up but the threads and it's dead on. The length is correct, the outside diameter of the pin, the "above threads" length is correct, the "below threads" length is correct, and the dust boot "retainer lip" height and outside diameter is correct.
The only thing I can't personally verify is the thread pitch and diameter.
If anyone here wants to try this experiment that can get their oem pin out of their oem bracket, try part number 14246 from Carlson or Dorman. Now I got mine from O'reilly's on a hunch that it's the exact same part from Carlsons and I was right. The rest of the planet including my Lexus dealer and their higher ups seems to think 14208 is the right number for our IS rear caliper slide pins. Well we've all disproven that many times already as you can see lol. I have an open dialogue with Carlson the aftermarket brake parts supplier about this issue to let them know that I think the aftermarket received the NEW blueprints to these updated pins, not the ORIGINAL, which most of us still have in real life. So when I get an old beat up used caliper bracket from someone that I can tear up to get the pin out I'll verify thread pitch but I really don't see Lexus using something SUPER close but different just for ****s & giggles.
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If anyone here wants to try this experiment that can get their oem pin out of their oem bracket, try part number 14246 from Carlson or Dorman. Now I got mine from O'reilly's on a hunch that it's the exact same part from Carlsons and I was right. The rest of the planet including my Lexus dealer and their higher ups seems to think 14208 is the right number for our IS rear caliper slide pins. Well we've all disproven that many times already as you can see lol. I have an open dialogue with Carlson the aftermarket brake parts supplier about this issue to let them know that I think the aftermarket received the NEW blueprints to these updated pins, not the ORIGINAL, which most of us still have in real life. So when I get an old beat up used caliper bracket from someone that I can tear up to get the pin out I'll verify thread pitch but I really don't see Lexus using something SUPER close but different just for ****s & giggles.
The caliper now slides smoothly and all brake juddering is gone!
#38
Lexus Test Driver
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Just had to put on the snow tires and discovered my left rear saw seized despite cleaning and regreasing the pins twice a year, maybe i need a new rubber boot. Regardless, some wd40 and a hammer to get the caliper off and 15 minutes with some sandpaper on the pin, its good as new.
#39
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You're a genius! I just bought these pins from O'Rileys and they fit perfectly on my 07 IS350! I bought ones from Napa to compare and like everybody else has seen, the threads are too small in diameter. 14246 is the correct one for us IS/GS guys. It seems to be specified as fitting a GS450H and 08 only GS350. Strange, but it works!
The caliper now slides smoothly and all brake juddering is gone!
The caliper now slides smoothly and all brake juddering is gone!
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#40
#41
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When i did the brakes on my car, the new pads came with differently shaped springs that did not insert properly into the old brake pad pins.
Had to get a new brake hardware kit from the dealer to get the redesigned pins with the holes in proper alignment.
Had to get a new brake hardware kit from the dealer to get the redesigned pins with the holes in proper alignment.
#43
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The duralast pads I bought came with the new spring design. The hardware kit from the dealer came with new springs so I did not re-use any old ones.
If you look carefully you can see the holes in the pins are orientated differently. The new design has it's holes on the short side of the rectangle on the pin. The old design has it's holes aligned with the long side of the rectangle pin.
The pics don't look quite right as these are aftermarket. The rectangle head of the pins for OEM I could have sworn are thicker. Just go to dealer for the updated hardware kit.
This is for a 2007 gs350 rwd. Realized this was about the AWD model.
Last edited by ez12a; 12-08-17 at 07:34 AM.
#45
Lexus Champion
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Hey guys, I'm having some issues with the rear brakes on my GS350 not engaging until the pedal is past 3/4 of the way down:
I opened up the rear brakes and both lower slide pins were rusted and seized. I had to use a hammer to get those calipers off.
I sanded and relubed the pins, and checked that the pistons move freely and they do.
However, I'm still having the same issue, the rear brakes don't engage until the pedal is almost floored.
While driving the pedal doesn't feel too spongy or soft, the front brakes can lock up and stop the car just fine. It gets very dangerous in the slightest bit of snow, where the fronts lock up completely while the rear is still pushing the car, and it basically turns into an un-steerable sled.
Anyone else come across a similar issue?
I opened up the rear brakes and both lower slide pins were rusted and seized. I had to use a hammer to get those calipers off.
I sanded and relubed the pins, and checked that the pistons move freely and they do.
However, I'm still having the same issue, the rear brakes don't engage until the pedal is almost floored.
While driving the pedal doesn't feel too spongy or soft, the front brakes can lock up and stop the car just fine. It gets very dangerous in the slightest bit of snow, where the fronts lock up completely while the rear is still pushing the car, and it basically turns into an un-steerable sled.
Anyone else come across a similar issue?