Headlight out. It's not the ballast or the bulb. Bad harness?? AMP ISSUES?
#16
Glad you got it all figured out, I am on my second set of oem bulbs, and looks like i need a new set. Driving home today noticed one light is out, and these are the new harrison japan bulbs that lexus uses, which i was hoping would of last a lot longer then the phillips lexus use to have. Car has 83k miles and 6 years old.
#20
#21
how the bulbs running so far with the OEM ones? And how much did you pick up the pair for and where?
#22
Don't take offence, but are you sure you are using a D4S bulb (and not D2)?
Edit: Just read the last post - Yes, quality aftermarket D4S bulbs are hard to find. For the record, our XenonDepot D4S bulbs have been a popular (and reliable) product on this board. We also carry OE Philips D4S HID bulbs (4300k and 6000k) bulbs for those wanting OEM.
Steve
Edit: Just read the last post - Yes, quality aftermarket D4S bulbs are hard to find. For the record, our XenonDepot D4S bulbs have been a popular (and reliable) product on this board. We also carry OE Philips D4S HID bulbs (4300k and 6000k) bulbs for those wanting OEM.
Steve
#24
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/garax-d4s-6000k
you can also use Steve's XenonDepot link (first link) and pick a bulb from there. 6500k is pretty close to 6000k. just remember, the higher the temp, the worse the light output is. oem is 4300k
#25
D4S is the correct bulb if your vehicle has OEM HID headlights.
Be very careful with aftermarket D4S bulbs (as you can see by this thread).
Here is a link to genuine Philips D4S 6000k Ultinon bulbs if interested.
Steve
Be very careful with aftermarket D4S bulbs (as you can see by this thread).
Here is a link to genuine Philips D4S 6000k Ultinon bulbs if interested.
Steve
#26
Headlight issue
Thanks Chuck. That explains why the dealer said ECU and not ballast. Why can't they call it like everyone else does? Too much!
I wouldn't blow a fuse for low amperage. To much amperage than say a 15 amp can withstand will blow but it wouldn't blow due to low amperage.
I did check the voltage when the car was off so that explains the 12 volts and not 14 due to the alternator supplying the charge. I will check the source voltage and also check the ballast voltage to compare as stated to do in the service bulletin. I guess I might have to do a little wire tracing this weekend and figure it out. I can always run new wires along with the main harness and connect them in at the fuse panel. The only good thing here is the two 15 amp fuses are in the engine compartment.
I am still hoping someone out there has had this exact problem and knows the fix. Hope is good thing.
I wouldn't blow a fuse for low amperage. To much amperage than say a 15 amp can withstand will blow but it wouldn't blow due to low amperage.
I did check the voltage when the car was off so that explains the 12 volts and not 14 due to the alternator supplying the charge. I will check the source voltage and also check the ballast voltage to compare as stated to do in the service bulletin. I guess I might have to do a little wire tracing this weekend and figure it out. I can always run new wires along with the main harness and connect them in at the fuse panel. The only good thing here is the two 15 amp fuses are in the engine compartment.
I am still hoping someone out there has had this exact problem and knows the fix. Hope is good thing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post