GS350 Coolant flush drains
#2
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The other plugs will not be on the heads but on the lower part of the engine block, possibly front and rear. If you can wait until the weekend, I can take some pics. It will look something like this:
http://www.lexls.com/images/coolant/10.jpg
http://www.lexls.com/images/coolant/10.jpg
#5
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Then when you go to pour in your coolant half the engine will have coolant the other Distilled water. That way you'll only replace 1 gallon
Its best to fully drain it, I found the 2nd one, and couldnt find the 3rd as my cars an AWD and the diff is in the way.
I just drained the passenger side and the radiator, the driver drain is a real pita to get too, especially without a lift. Good news it took almost all the 2 gallons.
Heres pics for anyone else, the drain is right next to the passenger engine mount under the exhaust manifold. You'll need to jack up the car and crawl in to reach it and if you have thick arms it will be very hard for you to reach. I barely squeezed my hand in there to put the socket and ratchet on.
![](http://imageshack.com/a/img534/7985/ez2m.jpg)
Its best to fully drain it, I found the 2nd one, and couldnt find the 3rd as my cars an AWD and the diff is in the way.
I just drained the passenger side and the radiator, the driver drain is a real pita to get too, especially without a lift. Good news it took almost all the 2 gallons.
Heres pics for anyone else, the drain is right next to the passenger engine mount under the exhaust manifold. You'll need to jack up the car and crawl in to reach it and if you have thick arms it will be very hard for you to reach. I barely squeezed my hand in there to put the socket and ratchet on.
![](http://imageshack.com/a/img534/7985/ez2m.jpg)
![](http://imageshack.com/a/img542/4104/e1es.jpg)
#7
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Then when you go to pour in your coolant half the engine will have coolant the other Distilled water. That way you'll only replace 1 gallon
Its best to fully drain it, I found the 2nd one, and couldnt find the 3rd as my cars an AWD and the diff is in the way.
I just drained the passenger side and the radiator, the driver drain is a real pita to get too, especially without a lift. Good news it took almost all the 2 gallons.
Heres pics for anyone else, the drain is right next to the passenger engine mount under the exhaust manifold. You'll need to jack up the car and crawl in to reach it and if you have thick arms it will be very hard for you to reach. I barely squeezed my hand in there to put the socket and ratchet on.
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img534/7985/ez2m.jpg[/mg]
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img542/4104/e1es.jpg[/ig]
Its best to fully drain it, I found the 2nd one, and couldnt find the 3rd as my cars an AWD and the diff is in the way.
I just drained the passenger side and the radiator, the driver drain is a real pita to get too, especially without a lift. Good news it took almost all the 2 gallons.
Heres pics for anyone else, the drain is right next to the passenger engine mount under the exhaust manifold. You'll need to jack up the car and crawl in to reach it and if you have thick arms it will be very hard for you to reach. I barely squeezed my hand in there to put the socket and ratchet on.
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img534/7985/ez2m.jpg[/mg]
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img542/4104/e1es.jpg[/ig]
On another note, running partial DI water doesn't harm your engine from what I've heard, no contaminants in the water to cause corrosive injustice to the engine's cooling pockets. STI and Evo owners have been doing it for a while now. I've been told that Radiator fluid only has its properties because of the fact that they keep the fluids from freezing, something you don't really need in FL. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here, because I've read and been told very vaguely by word of mouth, I haven't seen true results yet.
These are car owners who run 100% DI (Deionized, not distilled) water w/ water wetter for cooling purposes too, so I don't know how well this applies to our vehicles, KEEP IN MIND, this is for places that don't freeze around these Christmas times lol.
Awesome diagram! Better late than never hahaha...
Last edited by XxGoKoUxX; 10-30-13 at 08:15 PM.
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#8
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I did run water through the system to flush it, and then ran the heater on full blast with the rpms slightly up. Then I drained the fluids and water and put in the two gallons of toyota super long life coolant.
Then I closed the cap ran it for several mins with heater still on and rpms up just slightly. I topped it up until fully filled.
Total cost $17 x2 coolant
Then I closed the cap ran it for several mins with heater still on and rpms up just slightly. I topped it up until fully filled.
Total cost $17 x2 coolant
#10
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That bolt looks pretty rusty, too risky to crack open just to bleed a bit of coolant. You can just remove the lower radiator hose and let it drain, and with the hose undo crank the engine over for a few seconds and that should help drain as much as possible.
#11
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Yeah that’s what you get from the rust belts. I’d like to try opening it first. Is it the rusty bolt on the left or the greenish one on the right that needs to be cracked open? Looks like a female hex socket right?
#12
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Important thing is when you fill the coolant its best to wedge a tall funnel on the fill, and fill it to the max with a bit extra to help release the air pockets. Burping the system can speed the process, with the coolant full reach squeeze the lower coolant hose. That will force the coolant to flow through the engine, quickly releasing bubbles. Keep topping it off and before you finish filling the coolant level. With the palm of your hand cover the fill hole tightly and keep squeezing that lower hose. Drive it on the highway and when it cools check it the level.
#13
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If I just did a new water pump install, it would drain most of what was in there, right? I drained from the bottom of the radiator (the valve). Removing the water pump dumped out about a half gallon more. The fluid that came out was bout 1.5+ gallons total. I would imagine there is more in the heater core/lines and small areas inside the engine, but not enough to matter if the coolant was already in good shape, right? I should be able to just top off with new Toyota pink coolant and be good, right?
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