GS300 - tappy until fully warm - please help
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Hello everyone
Im new to the lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds abit tappety on cold starts until fully warm, sounds scary... noise disappears once its fully warm.
for a lexus to do this im a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no difference
Someone please help, any advise...
Im new to the lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds abit tappety on cold starts until fully warm, sounds scary... noise disappears once its fully warm.
for a lexus to do this im a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no difference
Someone please help, any advise...
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yup, i have seen this mentioned on more than one occasion from multiple people. mine taps on start also but i just rev the engine slightly to get the oil moving and it goes right away. mine has had all recalls and maintenance done also.
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Thanks for the replies, its not the injector tick, it sounds like tappets could be caused by oil starvation! Usually dry starts on certains cars would last seconds but on this it's until it gets fully warm that it sounds as it should...
doesn't go away by a rev... have tried...
what oil are people using here?... i've just changed the oil hoping it would go... castrol edge 5w30... is this okay or should i be using something else?
someone recommended using 10w40 castrol high mileage - name says it all... i have got 110k miles on it...
But i have had cars with more miles and it definitely is not usual signs of wear! Especially for toyota...
doesn't go away by a rev... have tried...
what oil are people using here?... i've just changed the oil hoping it would go... castrol edge 5w30... is this okay or should i be using something else?
someone recommended using 10w40 castrol high mileage - name says it all... i have got 110k miles on it...
But i have had cars with more miles and it definitely is not usual signs of wear! Especially for toyota...
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Thanks for the replies, its not the injector tick, it sounds like tappets could be caused by oil starvation! Usually dry starts on certains cars would last seconds but on this it's until it gets fully warm that it sounds as it should...
doesn't go away by a rev... have tried...
what oil are people using here?... i've just changed the oil hoping it would go... castrol edge 5w30... is this okay or should i be using something else?
someone recommended using 10w40 castrol high mileage - name says it all... i have got 110k miles on it...
But i have had cars with more miles and it definitely is not usual signs of wear! Especially for toyota...
doesn't go away by a rev... have tried...
what oil are people using here?... i've just changed the oil hoping it would go... castrol edge 5w30... is this okay or should i be using something else?
someone recommended using 10w40 castrol high mileage - name says it all... i have got 110k miles on it...
But i have had cars with more miles and it definitely is not usual signs of wear! Especially for toyota...
I have the exact opposite problem in my car in that I sometimes have lifter tick when its hot. Specifically when hot + high load and when I'm about 1 qt down seems prone to making it happen, sometimes.
I personally use Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20, however the price just went up, so the Castrol Edge will likely be my next move. I wouldn't use high mileage oils unless you had obvious signs of valve seal leakage (smoke on startup).
#6
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Hello everyone
Im new to the lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds abit tappety on cold starts until fully warm, sounds scary... noise disappears once its fully warm.
for a lexus to do this im a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no difference
Someone please help, any advise...
Im new to the lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds abit tappety on cold starts until fully warm, sounds scary... noise disappears once its fully warm.
for a lexus to do this im a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no difference
Someone please help, any advise...
Best to see if your Mech or Dealership can give it a listen. Don’t try to mask it with oil viscosity or additives – best to figure out what it is.
Good luck.
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Thanks guys for your informative responses...
It's at the dealers, they've tried telling me it's something to do with high pressure fuel pump, so I'm going to pop in tomorrow to do a test drive with the technician and see where it leads to...
The noise does sound like a lower tone knock... Is piston slap bad?
It's at the dealers, they've tried telling me it's something to do with high pressure fuel pump, so I'm going to pop in tomorrow to do a test drive with the technician and see where it leads to...
The noise does sound like a lower tone knock... Is piston slap bad?
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Is this worth a try?
See this in another post...
Before they give you excuse #1,000,001 try this. It might be a little costly but anything for the good of solving a problem. First up change your oil. Use something like Amsoil Signature 0W-30 just for this experiment, it's great for cold weather and cold starts overall. Buy an Amsoil P.I. Injector cleaner and run two bottles. Not together but in two different fill ups. When you do change your oil and get the Amsoil P.I. Put the highest octane available in your state, this is a must always because I've seen people fill up on 87 with IS250's. Big mistake! This cars compression is too high to give it cheap gas. You'd be doing more damage than good loading up on cheap stuff. Next after filling up and dropping in a bottle of the Amsoil P.I. Drive around to get the engine at good operating temperature. Next get on a highway and stay on the slow lane, put the car in sport mode and run it on 3rd gear at almost about 60mph for say 5min or a couple of miles. Sure it will eat gas like crazy but were trying to get the system burning off carbon, also any sludge that might be in the heads. The Amsoil signature 0W-30 should do a good job protecting the engine and cleaning up any bad residue that's been there.
See this in another post...
Before they give you excuse #1,000,001 try this. It might be a little costly but anything for the good of solving a problem. First up change your oil. Use something like Amsoil Signature 0W-30 just for this experiment, it's great for cold weather and cold starts overall. Buy an Amsoil P.I. Injector cleaner and run two bottles. Not together but in two different fill ups. When you do change your oil and get the Amsoil P.I. Put the highest octane available in your state, this is a must always because I've seen people fill up on 87 with IS250's. Big mistake! This cars compression is too high to give it cheap gas. You'd be doing more damage than good loading up on cheap stuff. Next after filling up and dropping in a bottle of the Amsoil P.I. Drive around to get the engine at good operating temperature. Next get on a highway and stay on the slow lane, put the car in sport mode and run it on 3rd gear at almost about 60mph for say 5min or a couple of miles. Sure it will eat gas like crazy but were trying to get the system burning off carbon, also any sludge that might be in the heads. The Amsoil signature 0W-30 should do a good job protecting the engine and cleaning up any bad residue that's been there.
#11
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Is this worth a try?
See this in another post...
Before they give you excuse #1,000,001 try this. It might be a little costly but anything for the good of solving a problem. First up change your oil. Use something like Amsoil Signature 0W-30 just for this experiment, it's great for cold weather and cold starts overall. Buy an Amsoil P.I. Injector cleaner and run two bottles. Not together but in two different fill ups. When you do change your oil and get the Amsoil P.I. Put the highest octane available in your state, this is a must always because I've seen people fill up on 87 with IS250's. Big mistake! This cars compression is too high to give it cheap gas. You'd be doing more damage than good loading up on cheap stuff. Next after filling up and dropping in a bottle of the Amsoil P.I. Drive around to get the engine at good operating temperature. Next get on a highway and stay on the slow lane, put the car in sport mode and run it on 3rd gear at almost about 60mph for say 5min or a couple of miles. Sure it will eat gas like crazy but were trying to get the system burning off carbon, also any sludge that might be in the heads. The Amsoil signature 0W-30 should do a good job protecting the engine and cleaning up any bad residue that's been there.
See this in another post...
Before they give you excuse #1,000,001 try this. It might be a little costly but anything for the good of solving a problem. First up change your oil. Use something like Amsoil Signature 0W-30 just for this experiment, it's great for cold weather and cold starts overall. Buy an Amsoil P.I. Injector cleaner and run two bottles. Not together but in two different fill ups. When you do change your oil and get the Amsoil P.I. Put the highest octane available in your state, this is a must always because I've seen people fill up on 87 with IS250's. Big mistake! This cars compression is too high to give it cheap gas. You'd be doing more damage than good loading up on cheap stuff. Next after filling up and dropping in a bottle of the Amsoil P.I. Drive around to get the engine at good operating temperature. Next get on a highway and stay on the slow lane, put the car in sport mode and run it on 3rd gear at almost about 60mph for say 5min or a couple of miles. Sure it will eat gas like crazy but were trying to get the system burning off carbon, also any sludge that might be in the heads. The Amsoil signature 0W-30 should do a good job protecting the engine and cleaning up any bad residue that's been there.
#12
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That is correct. Nothing you put in the fuel system will help clean carbon off of intake valves on DI engines. The only way you can try to get them clean without removing the intake manifold and some detailed work is to use a top engine cleaner or an induction cleaning that is fed into the engine from the intake system...not the one in all but like the BG 3 step system. The master tech at my dealer said Seafoam really doesn't help the 300/350/460 and I take his word because he has torn down 100's of engines and my master tech at Infiniti said the same thing.
Both my dealers are very nice. They told me that if I find a local shop that does the BG serivce that they will match the price within 10%
#13
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I use CRC Engine Tune-up & Decarbonizer and still have tapping noise mostly from the high pressure pump which is normal. I do this just to keep carbon from building up since its a common issue on direct injections.
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Regarding carbon buldup on the intake valves: This is what Toyota's D4-S injection system was designed to do, in addition to provide better fuel economy and performance through engine operating ranges.
From my own experience on my 460, when I had the spark plugs out and looked around the cylinder & valves, it works quite nicely. Not entirely sure about the 300's, but, the dual injectors have been around for awhile now so I'd think they have it too.
From my own experience on my 460, when I had the spark plugs out and looked around the cylinder & valves, it works quite nicely. Not entirely sure about the 300's, but, the dual injectors have been around for awhile now so I'd think they have it too.
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Regarding carbon buldup on the intake valves: This is what Toyota's D4-S injection system was designed to do, in addition to provide better fuel economy and performance through engine operating ranges.
From my own experience on my 460, when I had the spark plugs out and looked around the cylinder & valves, it works quite nicely. Not entirely sure about the 300's, but, the dual injectors have been around for awhile now so I'd think they have it too.
From my own experience on my 460, when I had the spark plugs out and looked around the cylinder & valves, it works quite nicely. Not entirely sure about the 300's, but, the dual injectors have been around for awhile now so I'd think they have it too.